Product Release! CorkSport Mazdaspeed 3 Aluminum Radiator

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by someguy Again, correct me if I'm wrong, but given that there is a thermostat to control coolant temperature, unless you are exceeded the thermal capacity of the cooling system this will provide zero benefits. Would be relatively easy to prove scientifically that it will not improve coolant temperatures up here in the snowy white north lol

Why would you be thinking about replacing a radiator if the one you have is working fine? This is only for people who through tracking or monster power have exceeded the cooling capacity of the stock system.

I'm done refer to my first post if you have more questions.

[MechEnix]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Why would you be thinking about replacing a radiator if the one you have is working fine? This is only for people who through tracking or monster power have exceeded the cooling capacity of the stock system. I'm done refer to my first post if you have more questions.

Cuz it looks cool brah

[faeker]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Don't you have a 6?

......no.

[jrotaryb]

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 The car doesn't really over heat unless there is a mechanical problem. What happens is coolant temps rise to about 225F at this point the fans are running at mid to high speed and the motor will start to cut power output until the heat in matches the heat out if that makes sense. I managed to lower my ECT by about 15F across the board with the use of water and Mocool instead of coolant. With the new rad, I'm hoping I can extend it to a full 30-45min car on track without needing to come in. The extra cooling capacity basically delays this from happening or will preventing it altogether. I may end up putting one of these on the racecar for full track use. TL/DR Bigger rad means you can beat on it longer on track before heat soak.

Still on the stock stat too?

[faeker]

@Celestspeed3; pretty much nailed the use of an upgraded rad. It's not going to be for the average joe who just dd's his speed. Hell, the only reason why i changed mine out on my wrx was because I said why not during an enginei swap. I think CS did the performance minded people a service with this release. Ain't all about looks sometimes.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

The other thing to remember at the track is that oil temps are related to coolant temp in that the stock oil cooler is cooled by coolant.

The better the cooling ability of the radiator, the lower the oil temps will be... Or so the thinking goes.

I have a Koyo Racing radiator on my genwin and I saw 240F coolant temps and 260F oil temps when revving to redline before shifting at Mosport GP. Shifting at 5800 rpm resulted in 20F lower oil and coolant temps This was with FL22 premixed at 50/50. At some point you saturate the heat capacity of the coolant itself, regardless of the type of radiator.

The plan for this year is to run water + MoCool like @CelestSpeed3 and see what the temps are like on the track.

[Celestspeed3]

Yes I'm still on the stock stat, there really isn't any reason to change it. You still want the engine to be at least 180F before beating on it. Changing the stat won't lower the running temps. Maybe if you remove the stat to improve flow of the system but I doubt you would see any advantages.

[jrotaryb]

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 Yes I'm still on the stock stat, there really isn't any reason to change it. You still want the engine to be at least 180F before beating on it. Changing the stat won't lower the running temps. Maybe if you remove the stat to improve flow of the system but I doubt you would see any advantages.

Well you want the motor to heat up to temp as fast as possible, no? No tstat would mean more running time below operating temps. I guess theoretically, over time engine wear could accumulate faster.

Hopefully this radiator helps you on the track - for the rest of us who are stricly daily drivers, it's probably pretty useless.

[Celestspeed3]

Yes you got the idea. Even on the street it would help with shedding the extra heat but I'm not sure its something most people would notice. The longer warm up temps are not an issue with a track car but I still think having the Tstat is a good idea.

[El_Diablo]

It wont help in shedding heat, just increase time for the engine to get to proper operating temperature. Our ECU logic actually uses cold temp triggers as well as hot, case in point, the knock sensors don't even turn on until 158*. Cooler t-stats are pointless and only allows the car to over cool, they do nothing to prevent or assist in overheating conditions.

[Fjager]

Most DD that have heat issues are one's with fmic's that block the radiator from getting cool air, a larger radiator with more surface area will offset that deficiency, before my fmic temps never got above 195, now with one they are into the 215-217 area on warm days sitting in traffic for a very short time, I don't like the idea of my coolant getting close to boiling for any short period of time during the summers. Granted the fan kicks in at 214 but sometimes it isn't able to catch up till the coolant warms a bit more.

[rolanblack]

^ as you said people with fmic seems to have higher coolant temps due to the intercooler is close to the radiator. If its bigger meaning wider, it must poke out more and would touch the intercooler. Leading more of a section not to get cool'd as fast.

How is the larger radiator going to help when about half is still blocked off by the fmic?

[Fjager]

The same way a larger tmic keeps heat soak at bay, by being larger it will take longer to heat up and it will cool faster because it isn't near any real hot sources like the tmic is to the valve cover. The AC condenser is actually between the intercooler and radiator. Unless the ac is on it wouldn't see any more heat than the stock one does with a fmic. As far as I can tell from the product pictures it closes the gap between the fan shroud and the radiator more than it does the ac condenser and fmic.

tl;dr
more surface area; more resistance to heat soak, faster cooling

[speed3okie]

no hoses to go with it?

[SaveMelMac]

Running no thermostat you are likely to run warmer. T stat not only allows the engine to warm up quicker it also slows coolant flow. Allowing more time for heat transfer in the radiator. You might see certain race applications run no thermostat but if that's the case they are using restrictor plates in order to slow the coolant flow.

[faeker]

Originally Posted by speed3okie no hoses to go with it?

don't do that

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by speed3okie no hoses to go with it?

Your joking right?

[faeker]

Does it come with coolant?

now with three times the hate

[ledfootrob]

Any updates from people running this?

[faeker]

It's big

tapped by satan

[speedtoz]

I would like a ms6 version! I finally paid off all my bills....so now the ms6 is getting a full redo. Haha also I drive from Albuquerque to Tucson every month, with a fmic im worried about high coolant temps.

[SpencerC]

@DookieMuncher; has been running it I know.

[Voltron]

Ive been using it for a few months. A quality piece for sure. Coolant temps are about the same cruising, havent tested it racing yet.

As for fitment, piping clearance may b a touch tight, as it pushes the fan back a bit. Stock manifold, there's room, but not alot.
W the jmf, piping will clear, but its tight. I just put couplers where it sits up against anything.

[Yatta]

How about you take your thicker core and make it half height? take the space you 'saved' and put a FMIC on top of it (not blocked and not in front or behind) with same side entry exit ? keeps the FMIC tubing short, and the air flow....... reverse the hood scoop or replace it with a riser vent...

[ledfootrob]

Originally Posted by DookieMuncher Ive been using it for a few months. A quality piece for sure. Coolant temps are about the same cruising, havent tested it racing yet. As for fitment, piping clearance may b a touch tight, as it pushes the fan back a bit. Stock manifold, there's room, but not alot. W the jmf, piping will clear, but its tight. I just put couplers where it sits up against anything.

Thank for the update. Can't wait to hear your track results as that's what I'm interested in finding out.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by speedtoz I would like a ms6 version! I finally paid off all my bills....so now the ms6 is getting a full redo. Haha also I drive from Albuquerque to Tucson every month, with a fmic im worried about high coolant temps.

Call Ron Davis Radiators, they have one for $587.51 + shipping.

[Fjager]

Asked for a ninja on my box and Corksport delivered with a teenage mutant ninja turtle on a blue ninja bike. Score.

[Fjager]

Review and impressions to come soon.

[JSmith]

Thats what they all say... :tear:

[Fjager]

Lol I'm pegging 214 every day I drive my car. If it can keep it below 200 I will be impressed.

[JSmith]

Does no one else drive with the heater all the way up and a/c button on? Keeps the temps at 187-190 while sitting in traffic.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by JSmith Does no one else drive with the heater all the way up and a/c button on? Keeps the temps at 187-190 while sitting in traffic.

This assumes one has a heater and an a/c button.

[Fjager]

Originally Posted by JSmith Does no one else drive with the heater all the way up and a/c button on? Keeps the temps at 187-190 while sitting in traffic.

I peg 214 going 80 on the freeway. Ac and heater is an option but still hot in the car.

[Fjager]

Do note that I have ac running between 65-70 for those temps, I turn on the heater and roll down the windows and my temps drop down to the 190's. If I can run the ac and not be above 200 I will be happy.

[iammike]

Originally Posted by Fjager I peg 214 going 80 on the freeway. Ac and heater is an option but still hot in the car.

That seems a bit excessive IMHO.

[rolanblack]

Originally Posted by Fjager Do note that I have ac running between 65-70 for those temps, I turn on the heater and roll down the windows and my temps drop down to the 190's. If I can run the ac and not be above 200 I will be happy.

holy fuck dude. your in cali and hitting those temps! might want to consider getting the aux fan controller to help you out.

gezz, i mean, texas gets hot and i see temps around 205-210 in traffic, cruising is around 190ish.

[Code Monkey]

Something's definitely fucked up, do you have enough coolant in the system?

[Fjager]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Something's definitely fucked up, do you have enough coolant in the system?

Yes coolant level was full and clean. I am the only owner of the car, bought it new in June of last year. I haven't messed with the coolant system at all since I got the car. I just changed out the radiator, filled it up and getting the bubbles out. Before I got the front mount I didn't see temps above 195 maybe 200.

[Fjager]

This thing is huge, had some difficulty getting my front mount piping back in because of it. My hot pipe runs down the left side and runs into a u pipe, the u pipe didn't fit anymore because the radiator now stuck out more than it used to towards the engine. In the end I got it back in but not preferable because the coolant hose now rests on top of it.

[Fjager]

Build quality is good. All the welds look pretty good except on where they welded on the brackets for the ac condenser and fan shroud. The brackets holding the ac condenser were bent in and needed to be bent out for the tabs to fit. Not sure if they were designed that way or were just bent in for shipping. Instructions didn't mention anything. The brackets for the fan shroud were also not perfectly placed for the lower tabs to fit in correctly, they didn't click in completely, not sure if that was by design or not. After some massaging of the brackets the tabs fit in for both the ac condenser and fan shroud.

Taking off the ac condenser was another issue, it didn't just slide out of the stock radiator brackets, had to work to get it off the stock brackets, maybe it was just mine but they were stuck to the brackets pretty good. I ended up using a screw driver to pry the ac condenser tabs up while I had someone else hold the radiator down.

I recommend having another set of hands, they help a lot with this install.