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 Old 02-12-2020, 02:20 PM   #1
 
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Default Ball joint

Hi !

I want to powdercoat my front control arm in the same time I need to change the ball joint. So I order new Moog ball joint and just try to fit them on it ... by I have a loose even if i install the c clamp that give MOOF to secure the ball joint.

Any suggestion to be sure the ball joint will not move and the best way to do it ...

Thanks for your help
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 Old 02-13-2020, 08:23 AM   #2
 
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replacement ball joint are made for the replacement arm not really oem arm despite many will try. Some can put few soldering point to hold it there but if you do it, don't say i suggest it....I heard some also hammer the arm to reduce the hole size but.....
(IMO this is the solution for a winter beater more than a speed, you better replace the whole arm and get new bushings included because even if it may seem ok, the bushing support the same abuse...Wheel hop came partially from those bushings...
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2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 02-13-2020, 04:56 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
replacement ball joint are made for the replacement arm not really oem arm despite many will try. Some can put few soldering point to hold it there but if you do it, don't say i suggest it....I heard some also hammer the arm to reduce the hole size but.....
(IMO this is the solution for a winter beater more than a speed, you better replace the whole arm and get new bushings included because even if it may seem ok, the bushing support the same abuse...Wheel hop came partially from those bushings...
Ouin pas mal ça que je pensais ...

C'est juste plate que faut que je strip tous mes bushings poly sur mes control arm pour les swapper sur les nouveaux ...

dans l'aftermarket irais-tu avec Mevotech Supreme ?
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 Old 02-14-2020, 10:11 AM   #4
 
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les tables moog que j avais mit etait bien faite et solide....

souder 4-5 spots si tu fais pas fondre le plastique dedans ca marche mais c est artisanal un peu....
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 02-14-2020, 10:31 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
les tables moog que j avais mit etait bien faite et solide....

souder 4-5 spots si tu fais pas fondre le plastique dedans ca marche mais c est artisanal un peu....
Ouin je veux pas aller là ... dans l'artisanal

Est-ce que tu connais un peu la qualité des produits Mevotech Supreme.

On m'a parlé que ça venait du Canada et qualité supérieur que le basic ailleurs
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 Old 02-14-2020, 11:23 AM   #6
 
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ils ont de bons produits en général mais jamais essayé leurs tables. Sauf que ca me ferait pas peur
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 02-15-2020, 05:07 PM   #7
 
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Ouin pcq les gars aux USA me conseille que les R line de Moog ... Ils ne jurent que par ça

Envoyé de mon ONEPLUS 6T
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