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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Need something cheaper, found oil in my intake. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk |
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__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok in that case i would go on ebay for a ko4 i hear they are of very high quality.
__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Options for the pretty much the same spec on the cheap is another k04. Or if you want to spend $1000, you could get a BNR stage 1 - thats close enough not to require a tune. |
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Last edited by turbskies; 08-18-2017 at 04:08 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||||
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No retune required for BNR stage 1. I have been using a turbo (Ko4) rebuilt with ebay rebuild parts for 100K km (bought from former user on here that rebuild and sold them); no issues, but I am sure some of the kits are not as good as others. The turbo swap was a little pain in the 6 cause he tranfer case is in the way underneath - that would push me to not want to do it too many times and get a decent turbo to start with. |
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Edit I had wrong username. This guy: And heres where he posts about the rebuild kit: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ld-kit-153055/ http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...10-k04-148302/ Last edited by speed23; 08-18-2017 at 07:08 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When you swap it out, leave the oil drain line on the engine!!! Just disconnect the turbo side!!! I wasted 2 hours trying to get that fucking bitch back on. I've heard you can do it that way. I also left the turbo mounting bracket on which allowed me to slide the turbo into place. From there I just installed the gasket and studs ect. Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a non-smoking k04 sitting in my garage, but it has about 93k on it....
__________________ Genpoo stuff |
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Sometimes I'll look back after I get in boost hard and there will be a cloud of smoke behind me. What do you think? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Pull your ic. if its the turbo seals you should have a really good coating in there and less so pre turbo piping. If its primarily pre-turbo to welcome to the rebuild club. That being said it would be a good idea to do a quick comp test, certainly easier and cheaper than buying a new turbo only to not solve the issue.
__________________ "Sarcasm and shit talking are two different things. MSF offers the best advice, just delivered by sarcastic pricks, with your best interest in mind." -ThePedigree13 Silver 06 MS6 - DD stealth build - no show, all go.... '12 Abarth Challenge Car - very loud, very fast, very inconvenient to drive on the street... |
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Was planning on doing a compression test in the future just haven't got around to it. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How much oil? Does the turbo smoke at all? People usually search and find excuses to go BT, in your case it seems like you just want to change the turbo. Just get this diagnosed properly, just in case the oil you found in the intake is actually stuff coming off of the crankcase ventilation system.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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Trust me I don't wanna go big turbo rn, don't have the funds. I just don't want to put a quart of oil in every 600 miles. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk | |
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Do a compression test, it's cheaper. Once you will find the results you will be able to decide between topping up with a litre of oil every 600 miles, replacing the turbo or something else.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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My turbo is relatively new. Compression is 180-190, I don't recall the exact numbers right now. Intake tract is dry. Pre and post turbo. Both catch cans combined only capture about 1-3/4 oz of fluid after 3 weeks. (about 250mi/wk)) No noticeable amount of oil missing from crankcase.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh I'm totally blowing black clouds when I'm on it (low 11's), but I've been told there's oil smoke in there too. First heard about it on the way home from ENM this year. Then shortly after from a buddy that was following me one day. I can smell the oil pretty fierce too if I get on it and then stop at a light or park.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Check your compression. Oil in your intake is NOT due to a bad turbo. That's blow-by. Check (or just replace) your PCV valve also.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You pull it out, and since you pulled it put a new one in. Then arrange a check-in to the bin for the old part.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Use caution getting the old one out. There's a retainer ring that pops off. If you break that, you're SOL unless you have another one.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was skerred when I tried to replace mine. Didnt want to break that retainer, so I shook it around and blew in the tube to the manifold. Seemed to function properly, so I left it in.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok just checked if there was oil in the top part of the intercooler right off the turbo, the inside was definitely oily but wasn't pooled, as be expected. Didn't take the front bottom hose off the intercooler to check, but I'm gonna assume there is quite a good amount of oil in there considering the hose is all caked with oily residue on the outside. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If oily residue on the outside is from oil build up on the inside, you have a boost leak. If you don't have a leak, the dirtyness is unrelated and no conclusion can be drawn as to what's on the inside. Takes all of 5 minutes to take the intercooler off. Not sure what you're doing.
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New to turbo'd cars. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You're in Kansas. There can't possibly be that much going on where you don't have time to pull an intercooler. Kidding aside... I've never had a reason to do my own leak test, so I couldn't elaborate on how to do one. There are youtube videos though. The outter dirtyness is likely years of road grime buildup.
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The build up isn't from years of buildup because it is only on the bottom half of the rubber tube. Everything else around it is clean too. Why do you say it is a boost leak though, I wouldn't think a boost leak would lead to me burning a quart of oil every 500-600 miles. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did you ever do the compression and leak down tests to rule our other issues? Important. If you really have turbo problems, a rebuilt K04 is an option if running stock tune and mods, about $350-$400. A better choice, which I did, is BNR stage 1, which is compstible with all mods that work with stock K04 turbo, including increased flow on intake and exhaust side (CAI, catless dp/rp, and K04 tunes like Hypertech).
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I just pulled the intercooler and there is some oil pooling at the bottom of the silicone hose connector. I want to go bnr s1, but the monies ( high school). I try not to cheap out, but I will probably end up rebuilding the k04 if that is the problem. And if it is low compression, I'mma ride her till she dies, then learn how to rebuild an engine lol. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You may end up spending more money by rebuilding the turbo compared to acquiring a new one. At least get a $400 ebay K04 which even though are most probably chinese they proved reliable over time (I think Mamba makes them).
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