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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hi folks. I've searched and searched but couldn't find an answer to my question because everyone is either modded or went a different style. My car is bone stock and I had my two resonators deleted but also want to delete my muffler from the stock exhaust. I was told from my mechanic that if I was to delete my muffler, it would create a lot of back pressure on the engine and turbo so to not do it. Remember my car is bone stock. I want to hear the mean man made machine roar. So would it be okay to delete the muffler or no as to back pressure on the turbo or engine? Would appreciate a lot and sorry I couldn't find anything based on my question here so I post it here. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My own opinions of obnoxious ricer exhaust aside, please explain how a muffler delete would increase backpressure. Seriously though, please do more reading and stop taking other people's word for how to treat your car. Some will argue you'll need a fuel pump for it. Most will argue its a poor decision. To each his own.
__________________ Things that matter: CS "Stage 2" SRI/TIP, CS TMIC, AT HPFP, JBR 70 duro RMM, Stratified OTS +, Koni FSD's, Whiteline endlinks. Things that don't: Gen Pu wheels, CPE center pod with Prosport boost, OP, and OT gauges, Eonon G9151A. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So as to what you're saying it's just all based on your own opinion. I've read a little that with the back pressure it'll lose some torque in the low RPM but pick up at higher RPM. I just want to know if it's a good or bad decision to go as having the muffler deleted. FYI still new here so don't go all grumpy. |
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All of our exhaust exits through the turbo, a single source. The changes in mufflers and resos are all downstream. But, we have an extremely free flowing exhaust, so much so that on MS3s, deleting mufflers and resos does nothing but change sound, mostly for the worst, unless you have enough power mods to already be above 300 whp, about 70 hp over stock. To me removing muffler and resos on a four banger produces a distinctive sound that will make you the envy of farmers everywhere. You will capture perfectly the sound of a John Deer tractor! I doubt it will harm your engine, as others have speculated, because there are upstream restrictions. If you want to improve exhaust, the restrictions are not the mufflers or resos at your power level. It is the restrictions in the low flow cats in the downpipe and midpipe. Replacing the midpipe with a race pipe or test pipe, will produce a modest power gain and also give the exhaust a bit more growl without sounding like a tractor. It is advisable that you upgrade the high pressure fuel pump internal piston and cylinder if going with a test pipe and absolutely necessary if you go with a 3" aftermarket downpipe. You are not reading the threads here on this subject and listening to bullshit instead.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. | |
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![]() | | #5 | ![]() |
![]() | Not Ranked : 0 score If you do it , let me know how it sounds ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That still doesn't explain how deleting a muffler, a source of turbulence for exhaust flow, would increase backpressure. I understand you're new to this, I'm pointing out 1) a fault in your logic, and 2) the fact that you continue to take someone else's word as faultless and ask questions based on an incorrect understanding of how exhaust works. Additionally, I already mentioned something to look into. You should already know what the first upgrade you should do is. As I always say, please do more research for the sake of your car.
__________________ Things that matter: CS "Stage 2" SRI/TIP, CS TMIC, AT HPFP, JBR 70 duro RMM, Stratified OTS +, Koni FSD's, Whiteline endlinks. Things that don't: Gen Pu wheels, CPE center pod with Prosport boost, OP, and OT gauges, Eonon G9151A. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No its a bad idea. 1. Increasing exhaust flow anymore without FP internals will result in a bent rod. Bent rod = undriveable car. 2. Your car will sound like a loud, piece of shit and you'll be referred to by every other driver, your family and friends as a "douchebag" behind your back. Additional side effects: Police will target you, you won't be invited to parties, and girls will point and laugh at you and will be more likely to file a restraining order against you than get in your car.. Invest in pump internals, fool. You're welcome. BTW with the amount of money you spent modding your stock exhaust you likely could have purchased an aftermarket performance one. Also, if your mechanic said deleting your muffler will increase backpressure...its time to find a new mechanic.
__________________ '06 MS6: BNR S3//CP-E FMIC//Forge V3/CP-E Nano Intake//TIP//DNP Swain Tech Coated Exhaust Mani//CP-E Catted Swain Tech Coated DP//Magnaflow CBE//CP-E RMM & TT Rear Diff Mount//PnP & Coated Intake Mani// VCTS and EGR delete//GS EBCS//3 Bar MAP//RMM//SafeSeals//PT-P FP Internals//TWM Stage II STS//SSP//Saikou Michi OCC//Snow Stage 2 WMI w/ D07 nozzle//Cobb AP V3//RICH TUNE!//Stoptech Slotted Rotors and EBC RedStuff Pads//H&R springs w/spacers//Bilsteins//SPC Balljoints//AeroForce ScanGauge & WideBand//Snow Performance WMI Failsafe & Guardian Angel//Morimoto HID Projector Upgrade//Hella HID Fogs Last edited by MazdaspeedKills; 10-19-2017 at 12:45 PM. |
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__________________ mods: \\// AT HPFP // AccessPort // CS S2 TIP, SRI and TMIC // CPe S2 RMM // Synapse BPV // Mazda gutted secondary cat // S-OTS+ 91S2 // HKS TP DLi II // Wilwood DP6 13” brakes // TCE 2 piece rear rotors // Maxwell SuperCap/LiFePO4 cell \\// waiting for install: \\// CPE Catted DP // CS Battery Box // Devils Own Meth kit // H&R Coilovers \\// | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How old are you? 16? Go read your intro post again. It will point you down the right path for modifying your car safely. Open up that exhaust with straight pipe and very bad things can happen to your motor. I know you'll do it anyways. But you've been warned. Turbos like to breathe. Your mechanic probably told you that bullshit lie to prevent you from ruining your sex life. Seriously, you delete that muffler and it will sound like you're farting into a coffee can with an echo. If you want to hear the mean machine "roar" then get a catted downpipe (because smog check) and aftermarket exhaust like Corksport for instance. I've heard a few MS6's and MS3's on you tube with straight pipe. The most irritating and annoying sound I've ever heard in my life. Don't join the douchebag straight pipe crew. Save your money for HPFP internals and a Cobb Accessport. Then an intake. Then cat back exhaust and pro tune. Oh wait, you have no cats. How are you going to pass smog in two years?
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Thor Hammer For This Useful Post: | Yatta (10-19-2017) |
![]() | | #10 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2010 black mica speed3 The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG. The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights. Soon:built motor Last edited by Djohns; 10-20-2017 at 08:04 AM. | |
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I'm very fortunate that I have a smog shop that turns their head when they look at my CPE catted downpipe and other non-CARB approved items like my BOV and TMIC.
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Thor Hammer For This Useful Post: | Djohns (10-20-2017) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't want to debate on parts type vs restrictions but in a turbo car if you remove exaust restriction, you change turbo response. If you go straight and catless with a stock tune and fuel pump you will end up with a rod going out of the bloc. But next time listen carefully because you get it backwards....removing exaust parts usually REDUCE restriction and INCREASE power. How much close to that would bring a straight pipe with cats....i don't know and i agree with peoples saying a first gen ms3 catback isn't much restrictive because i ran downpipe with stock catback for a while and i couldn't measure any significant gains by installing a larger catback when i was still using the k04... After that i don't see why you would have a slow but noisy car when you will be the only one to appreciate it. (and maybe not that much at cruising speed) You would better put some camber and neons on it to be like all other kids if you want to be seen...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OP is MIA. Typical. @HmoobBoi;
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score FWIW, on my gen 1 MS3 I did run a 3" catless dp/rp into stock CBE with no fuel pump upgrade for quite a while. I did have a safe tune, keeping it from overboosting or spiking, with safe AFRs and 18-19 psi target and taper at redline, all of 93 octane. Of course, I was data logging. Eventually, I did see fuel pressures drop below 1600 under load, actually a couple cells down into the 1100's. As soon as that happened, I grounded the car until I got the pump internals upgraded. I'm still running catless 3" dp/rp into stock CBE on that tune at 140,000 miles. Now run a K04 flow equivalent BNR Stage 1 to eliminate the "smoking turbo" problem. OP has a lot to learn and needs to read more and ask fewer stupid questions. We've all been there, but we have a proper intolerance for people who are too lazy to search and ask stupid questions that even a little searching would have kept them from asking.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone is warning you against this for a safety or performance reason is completely wrong. Deleting the mufflers won't give you any noticeable performance gains. I would recommend against it just because that way to loud for my taste. To each their own though. |
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