MS6 became smoke machine this AM... oh nos

[UnknownSuperhero]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble I was thinking about that actually. Slow build, no rush and then swap in sometime in the next year and sell the long block for what I paid for it.

I support this.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by UnknownSuperhero I support this.

Me as well. Come on @dale_gribble; you know you want moar powa/flow/maybe port injected meth/DSS axles.

Sorry, trying to live vicariously through you

[dale_gribble]

Originally Posted by ItsNox Me as well. Come on @dale_gribble; you know you want moar powa/flow/maybe port injected meth/DSS axles. Sorry, trying to live vicariously through you

Thanks!

The car felt so right ~340-350whp paired with the suspension, tires, brakes, etc. It felt perfect for my driving style. It felt balanced and fast with a nice long powerband to redline and still feels very tame when I just drove it like a regular ass car (which I do 99% of time). I didn't want any more power than that. 350whp is a lot of power. That's ~420bhp from 2.3L which is still mind boggling to me.

[Neverlift]

You don't get a warranty from the factory unless it was installed by a proper mechanic, btw. Not a huge deal, their factory motors are legit, just cost $$$$.

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Thanks! The car felt so right ~340-350whp paired with the suspension, tires, brakes, etc. It felt perfect for my driving style. It felt balanced and fast with a nice long powerband to redline and still feels very tame when I just drove it like a regular ass car (which I do 99% of time). I didn't want any more power than that. 350whp is a lot of power. That's ~420bhp from 2.3L which is still mind boggling to me.

I agree with that unless you are awd when more power also mean more tire wear to me. For dayly driving, 95% of the time we don't need more than 150-200 to pass a car and we use the rest to accelerate to legal speed to get a smile before and after work. Sometimes to get few more hp mean crossing the line where the car could go from a cool and fast dayly to a customised machine with a lot more risk and concerns all around but the smile you can get while driving, always remain proportional to HP you can get

[maddocx240]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Thanks! The car felt so right ~340-350whp paired with the suspension, tires, brakes, etc. It felt perfect for my driving style. It felt balanced and fast with a nice long powerband to redline and still feels very tame when I just drove it like a regular ass car (which I do 99% of time). I didn't want any more power than that. 350whp is a lot of power. That's ~420bhp from 2.3L which is still mind boggling to me.

This is very true and couldn't agree more. Balance is the key, and if feels that way to you leave it as such. Searching for more power leads to more issues at times. Then your looking under your hood every other day cause something's wrong. That's not daily driving characteristics. These cars shouldn't be made to make more than 400 hp, it's nice to brag and boast about I'm sure, but if you want your car to stay reliable then there is always a limit you shouldn't cross. Leave big numbers to guys who like to break stuff, lol.

[Goodrich27]

Same happened to me in my genpu turned out to be a cracked ringland in cylinder two that had lost about 22psi compression. Numbers were 180-168-180-180. And it smoked something fierce. This was all after a new gt3071r so I knew it wasn't the turbo


Sent whilst bojanglen.

[lnumbp]

What's the plan with the smoke machine? If you remove the head please post some pictures of any damage you can find along the cylinder walls and such. I'm curious to know the root cause.

[dale_gribble]

Definitely going to tear apart and root cause. I would have to do that anyways so I know it's rebuildable which I'm pretty sure it is.

[Cevaes_64]

Originally Posted by Goodrich27 Same happened to me in my genpu turned out to be a cracked ringland in cylinder two that had lost about 22psi compression. Numbers were 180-168-180-180. And it smoked something fierce. This was all after a new gt3071r so I knew it wasn't the turbo Sent whilst bojanglen.

My PU also took a dump on my number 2 cylinder at 24k... I have also read a few other guys with the same issue... Trend?

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[dale_gribble]

We definitely aren't alone though these failures aren't limited to #2 only.

MZR DISI Ringland Failures

[dale_gribble]

Little early motor porn... Stopping by shop tomorrow to snap a few more shots including virgin mzr.

Fidanza FW



Only big surprise with FW was this right here; not very common anymore.



LUK CLUTCH







And CP-E safe seals. Damnit if I didn't put about 1-2k miles on my car since I installed a set of these on the last motor...



Injectors are going out for cleaning and then it should start coming together pretty quick. Maybe by Friday.

[Jtaylor]

Is that a LUK stock replacement?

[dale_gribble]

Yes

[Cevaes_64]

That's the one I'm getting when is time too, 299 on eBay for the kit =)

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[Lex]

For the 350whp goal a factory fresh motor with lots of piston cooling is the right choice. The pistons overheat, become brittle and then a little detonation chips them.

Also that amount of power is a sweet spot for the chassis as you noted. Brakes, suspension and drivetrain work in good harmony at that power level and that harmony leads to an enjoyable drive.

[Code Monkey]

^ Yep, that's where I want my Flying Pig ultimately tuned for road racing, about 350whp/wtq to hit a sweet spot for the car.

[Cevaes_64]

I just installed BNR so on 93 should Be a bit less than that and will use the E85 map for weekends and fun ocations only, WIN

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[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Cevaes_64 I just installed BNR so on 93 should Be a bit less than that and will use the E85 map for weekends and fun ocations only, WIN

You will hit 350 whp on the BNR with no problems.

[dale_gribble]

Here's some motor porn. Gen 1 pistons of course, no surprise there. We inspected the cylinders, there were a couple TINY bits of what appeared to be shavings and/or debris in the cylinders on the pistons/walls. Definitely worth it to clean them out before install.

Pistons were numbered with handwritten numbers up top; I assume that's part of the balancing process.

[dale_gribble]

MS6 still looks good in the air in pieces.

[ALPINEST4RS]

Why is the hood off?

[dale_gribble]

Hmm. .. dunno.

[[R]usty]

Totally forgot this was going on. Congrats on the new long block. Looks like you're making some great decisions. I always planned if I ever rebuild to stick with a smaller quick spooling turbo tuned in the range of 350-400 whp. I really like that you're sticking with the Beaner, I think that will make for an excellently balanced speed. Good luck!

**Oh and by the way you have one sick looking speed6, I'm jelly.

[aviator79]

Assume you got a new release bearing for clutch. Block but have pilot bearing installed.

Also new seals for trans/pto
What you using for antifreeze? and other fluids?
Edit
I only asking because when I did an engine swap I was not planing on spending $200+ to replace all the fluids but the zerex I went with was sort of expensive ( I paid $20.25/gal so $60 but now @ $15/gal on amazon). I am about to flush my car and want to figure out cheapest price. I did research it before and you can get same OEM stuff at ford but concentrate I think for cheaper. Or some have just used regular stuff and been fine, IDK. ON a new engine probably be fine.

[Snyeed]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Little early motor porn... Stopping by shop tomorrow to snap a few more shots including virgin mzr. Injectors are going out for cleaning and then it should start coming together pretty quick. Maybe by Friday.

Where did you decide to send your injectors for cleaning?

[dale_gribble]

The shop was managing the injectors. I am not sure where they are going. I think some of the local OEM shops have high pressure DI cleaning setups now since everything is going that route.

I stopped by shop today, it looks like motor should be swapped over today and tomorrow delivery is still a reality. I would have taken pictures but it wasn't very exciting. Just a ripped apart car. They did decide to pull the motor out of the front of the car.

Originally Posted by aviator79 Assume you got a new release bearing for clutch. Block but have pilot bearing installed. Also new seals for trans/pto What you using for antifreeze? and other fluids? Edit I only asking because when I did an engine swap I was not planing on spending $200+ to replace all the fluids but the zerex I went with was sort of expensive ( I paid $20.25/gal so $60 but now @ $15/gal on amazon). I am about to flush my car and want to figure out cheapest price. I did research it before and you can get same OEM stuff at ford but concentrate I think for cheaper. Or some have just used regular stuff and been fine, IDK. ON a new engine probably be fine.

That's one thing I love about this shop is they always replace the stuff that is supposed to be replaced without prying. They just get the part from the local mazda dealer, put it on the invoice and move along. They already mentioned new axle seals and throwout among other things. Unsure about coolant.

[Mazdazilla6]

IMO stick with Mazda's FL22, it's very good coolant. Contains very little corrosives.

It's okay to stick with the BNR... So long as you add another

[maddocx240]

For coolant you can use prestone 50/50. It doesn't matter.

[ALPINEST4RS]

That's crazy they pulled the motor out of the front.

I drop them bitches fromunda.

[Easter Bunny]

That would be lifting them in. Dropping implies you are using gravity to help.

[ALPINEST4RS]

It's the redneck big 3 slang I recon.

I gracefully and gently set the engine on a roller. Then, I hoist the vehicle back in the air. Like so.

[dale_gribble]

Just wanted to share a cool pic of my new shocks and brakes. This is the only way I could get both in the picture.



I just realized my Fog HIDs are just hanging out there... :/

[Jeff23spl]

these caliper look heavy but since i just have a 3, is it oem or heavy duty upgrade ?

[dale_gribble]

Brembo bbk

[Code Monkey]

@dale_gribble; if it is not too late, could you measure the distance between the center of the two tabs on the bottom of the fans/radiator? Thanks.

[dale_gribble]

Sure @Code Monkey; I'll probably stop by the shop after work. Of course I have another radiator in my garage so that will probably be easier.

[UnknownSuperhero]

And then?

[dale_gribble]

Car is still in shop. Couple seals were a week out so they won't have all parts til tomorrow... They won't reuse everything like we do. I have been in shop and in constant contact with the tech/owner. It's in good hands although I think they could have expedited the part orders so it didn't take a week to get snail mail.

BTW @Code Monkey; I totally forgot about this. You still need the 36-24-36 on the rad mount?

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Car is still in shop. Couple seals were a week out so they won't have all parts til tomorrow... They won't reuse everything like we do. I have been in shop and in constant contact with the tech/owner. It's in good hands although I think they could have expedited the part orders so it didn't take a week to get snail mail. BTW @Code Monkey; I totally forgot about this. You still need the 36-24-36 on the rad mount?

Sounds like a good shop. I like your choice of luk clutch & fidanza FW as that's the route I'm planning to go and would really appreciate your feedback.

Have you considered running a larger nozzle or even 2 nozzles and aux fueling with meth? Taking your new motor into account I would think it could handle the power just fine.

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