mod a high mileage MS6

[zljloveymx]

I own a 07 mazdaspeed 6 and it just hit 150k km last week.
Is the car still worth putting more mods on or I should just leave it stock? The car runs good, no smoking turbo, every gear feels good except the R, and no noise from engine(timing chain, VVT actuator), I do oil change every 5000 km and recently done: replaced oem to SURE RMM, differential oil change, brake pads&disc change, one step colder spark plugs. I'm considering adding some bolt on mods (intake, exhaust, AP...) I need some suggestion. Should I continue to do this or save the money?
Thanks for taking a look at this

[Hargarbl]

why not? I purchased my 06 MS6 with roughly 80k miles on it (around 130k km). As far as i know it was completely stock except for a RMM. Ive got a bunch of stuff done to it now (mods in sig). So go for. Maybe wait a little bit to appreciate what you have right now, then in 6 months time start modding and tunning and have a whole new appreciation for it. And just a heads up, almost everyone will say that the AP is your best choice as far as your very first mod, that way you can monitor stuff especially your HPFP.

[Snip]

if maintained well and handled with a little bit of tlc, then tuning with some bolt on mods is no problem.

You'll never get a full guarantee that nothing will break, because we can't look inside your engine how the wear is on all of your internals, but generally speaking you'll be okay.

As for the rest, I agree with Hargarbl, first an AP so you can monitor everything you want to know, after that you invest in the rest, HPFP internals to be first I would suggest, after that your intake and so on.
But I can't look inside your wallet so that's up to you

Last advice I can give you, that helped me a lot in gaining a little knowledge.... Read everything on this forum applicable to your car.... really everything.....twice

Have fun

[jm211]

Do at least a compression test. A leakdown is nice as well. This gives you a gauge on internal motor health.

Best mod for the money is an accessport. Used comes around USD300-350ish. Followed by a hpfp.
Lastly, I would do a testpipe and a CS 3Inch ID intake with an e-tune.

For less than $1,000 you could really wake the car up.

[07speed6awd]

I have 135,000 on my 07 speed 6 and have tones of work done. got the car with 89k on it. just don't forget that there will be wear and tear parts that will go.. but injoy the speed6

[dooderek]

lets talk about reliability.

you have two ends of the spectrum.

one the unluckiest of the unlucky,
blows up stock with low miles.


then you got the otherside

now im not saying im all the way to the right but heres the life of my car

bought a 32k. one of the salesman at the dealership owned a ms6 and was stocking out, so he traded me dp tmic and exhaust, same night i bought an AP. i did not get fp internals until maybe 5 to 10k miles down the road.

So right from day 1 I modded my car at 32k. so roughly at 50k miles im running pre turbo and pre tb meth plus all the bolt ons dj tuned and a air to air oil cooler.

Then i go chinacharger, again pre turbo pre tb meth, however chinacharger has massive compressor surge, also accidently spike to over 30 psi twice.

now im at 65k i upgrade to my precision 6031. this is the only real "engine" work i had done, and its vvt, which i got under warranty may i add. so at 78k i dyno'd at 430 awhp on a DYNOPAK, dyno pak. still same old stock engine. i crashed my car.


the point is, imo these engines are reliable aslong as they are cared for and tuned right, and you are running at least 36 psi in all your tires

[Easter Bunny]

Isn't 150,000 km only like 40,000 miles? Fucking Canadians

[Jtaylor]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Isn't 150,000 km only like 40,000 miles? Fucking Canadians

Actually, 150KM is roughly 93K miles. Learn your math before you degrade us Americans.

But, I would start with basic mods. I have 118k on the ODO and am still on the stock clutch. I don't care what the mileage looks like, as long as you have the want for going faster you shoot for it regardless of mileage.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Jtaylor Actually, 150KM is roughly 93K miles. Learn your math before you degrade us Americans. But, I would start with basic mods. I have 118k on the ODO and am still on the stock clutch. I don't care what the mileage looks like, as long as you have the want for going faster you shoot for it regardless of mods.

Sarcasm learn the meaning of it.

Between fucking Americas hat and Americas penis this thread is frustrating.

[Jtaylor]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Sarcasm learn the meaning of it. Between fucking Americas hat and Americas penis this thread is frustrating.

Sarcasm
I know the meaning of "sarcasm" but sounding like a complete jackass is beyond that

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Jtaylor Sarcasm I know the meaning of "sarcasm" but sounding like a complete jackass is beyond that

Obviously you know the meaning but don't get it.

[Jtaylor]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Obviously you know the meaning but don't get it.

Sarcasm is good, but there is a fine line between being sarcastic and sounding like a complete ass. Your post yielded no gain to this thread, move on and keep us "americans" looking bad.

[Easter Bunny]

You must be new here.

[BLKSTIG]

Originally Posted by dooderek lets talk about reliability. you have two ends of the spectrum. one the unluckiest of the unlucky, blows up stock with low miles. then you got the otherside now im not saying im all the way to the right but heres the life of my car bought a 32k. one of the salesman at the dealership owned a ms6 and was stocking out, so he traded me dp tmic and exhaust, same night i bought an AP. i did not get fp internals until maybe 5 to 10k miles down the road. So right from day 1 I modded my car at 32k. so roughly at 50k miles im running pre turbo and pre tb meth plus all the bolt ons dj tuned and a air to air oil cooler. Then i go chinacharger, again pre turbo pre tb meth, however chinacharger has massive compressor surge, also accidently spike to over 30 psi twice. now im at 65k i upgrade to my precision 6031. this is the only real "engine" work i had done, and its vvt, which i got under warranty may i add. so at 78k i dyno'd at 430 awhp on a DYNOPAK, dyno pak. still same old stock engine. i crashed my car. the point is, imo these engines are reliable aslong as they are cared for and tuned right, and you are running at least 36 psi in all your tires

so it's your car I've been watching on youtube today

[dooderek]

Originally Posted by BLKSTIG so it's your car I've been watching on youtube today

i have Parkinsons

[m4tic]

my shit has 145k miles... someone buy it haha

[6onSpeed]

Originally Posted by jm211 Do at least a compression test. A leakdown is nice as well. This gives you a gauge on internal motor health. Best mod for the money is an accessport. Used comes around USD300-350ish. Followed by a hpfp.

I agree with what jm211 says.
A compression test is easy to do and keep an eye out for any oil consumption between oil changes. If that is good than a AP intake and a cat back would be a good start. Oh and upgraded diff mount.

[zljloveymx]

Thx for the replies guys. Today I got a flashing cel on highway for a few second, never saw this before. I replaced 6510 NGK one step colder spark plugs couple weeks ago. Would it be the reason of the spark plugs? also sometimes the car has rough idle.

[sidekick]

I can't believe no one else mentioned it, but you should not be running step colder plugs with no modifications. Your flashing CEL is due to a misfire, which is also causing the rough idle. You've probably fouled the spark plugs, because they are too cold and are not able to clean themselves. Use OEM heat range plugs. They will be plenty until you're making at LEAST in the neighborhood of 300WHP.

[zljloveymx]

Originally Posted by sidekick I can't believe no one else mentioned it, but you should not be running step colder plugs with no modifications. Your flashing CEL is due to a misfire, which is also causing the rough idle. You've probably fouled the spark plugs, because they are too cold and are not able to clean themselves. Use OEM heat range plugs. They will be plenty until you're making at LEAST in the neighborhood of 300WHP.

Thanks for telling me that. I got them just because they were on sale on ebayand Im a noob about this.

[zljloveymx]

And another question like I posted before. The car surging/vibrating when wot in 5th and half throttle in 6th gear, and the vibration gone when keep accelerating. I thought it was the problem with wheel balance/tires problem. After I replaced new tires and done balance, the problem still there. I searched and found some people had a problem like this with their ms3. I know we usually should not get into boost when at low rpm of 5th 6th, but there must be something wrong there. I think I should really get the AP soon.

Any suggestion and correction are welcomed. I really wanna learn something from this forum

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by dooderek i have Parkinsons

thats easily the most truthful thing you have ever said

[wdautrem]

Get the AP, HPFP internals, and ethanol tune.

[sidekick]

The stock tune is pretty bad all around, to be honest. It works, but I'd suggest an AP and a tune at the very least. You'll get the most out of the stock engine and most likely be "safer".