Timing chain/VVT replacement parts list

[frothy]

Originally Posted by ALPINEST4RS Just for reference too, I looked at your parts list and i highly recommend the cam cover bolts to be replaced. Each one has a rubber gasket on the bolt itself.

Yeah, I definitely considered replacing those when I was buying my parts. ...until I realized they were ~$10 each and I'd be replacing 14 of them. Where is the rubber gasket located on them? I seem to recall the bolts just being surrounded by a plastic collar. My impression was that the collars just served to facilitate reinstallation of the cover, as the collars keep the gasket aligned and held to it.

The other two things missing from my list are the chain guides. The general consensus, from what I'd read here, seemed to be that most people that did the VVT job found that their guides were in great shape and didn't need to be replaced. I took a gamble that mine would be in great shape too, and they were.

[ALPINEST4RS]

When I get to work I'll snap a pic.

[ALPINEST4RS]

@frothy;

The metal sleeve under the hardened rubber is what centers the valve cover gasket. The rubber is the seal. If they are dry rotted/cracked/taken off they can become distorted.

The fact you said hardened plastic indicated yours are wore out overtime. Ever had the chance to to a protege timing belt? The valve cover gasket is hardened plastic from heat soak overtime, it breaks apart. This is just more on a mi nute scale.

[frothy]

@ALPINEST4RS; Thanks for the picture! Yeah, the bolts I pulled from my car were completely black so it was a little more difficult to get an idea of what was going on with a quick glance. I was under the false impression that the sleeve was made of plastic -- not sure why -- I think I determined that by feel.

Appreciate the insight!

[MY DICK IS SMALL-beautfpowers@gmail.com]

i hope this thread is not too dead for this question, i have 120k miles on my car but replaces the engine with a used engine that had 18k on it at 67k miles, is this something i should be considering soon

i am putting the car away for the winter and want to do as much preventative care as possible that way next spring she is ready enjoy with no down time/ surprises

thanks guys

[twillz]

I listen to my engine status every day, just scared of the day that I have to replace this. At 71k and sounds good still :]

[Lex2007]

Mind did too...and then 8k miles later it started to sound like a diesel engine.

Start saving some $$$ just in case.

a

[Stryker125]

Any update on this? I'm also in WA and will likely need to get this done sooner than later. Which dealers did you get quotes from?

Originally Posted by ihasmazda just called 3 more dealerships in the area. two of them are going to call me back after they look up parts (that doesn't sound too confident) and the third claimed their system was down and that even if it was up, i'd have to first talk to the parts dept to get a quote on the parts and then back to service to get a labor quote. wtf. so the first place for $1800 was the only dealership that was even on their game. i hate to say it but so far they're the only ones I'd even want to consider at this point...maybe that'd why they can charge and arm and a leg, because they're the only ones with real service. edit: got a call back from another dealership, $1200 looking a lot better... i doubt the other place will do any better... why the place nearest me has to be $600 high is beyond me... i'll try to get them to match 3rd place quoted $1550. Update 7/19: I just called the high guys (nearest me of course) and asked if they'd match the low guys. They said they'd need a copy of a written quote to compare parts etc, so I called the low guys back and this time got some lady that seemed to have very little interest in helping me, saying that she'd try to get me a quote sometime NEXT WEEK...

[Raider]

Get a kit from edge like I did, then hit up the dealer. I added a Dimple magnetic drain plug since oil needed to be changed.

Labor is an easy $7-800, because of the shitty working area.

[Stryker125]

Yea, when the time comes I may go with that. Time to start collecting cans!

[HaXiR]

I've been stressing lately about this repair. I'm at like 84xxx and while at a Mazda meet this past weekend I started it up with the hood popped and heard a sound that sounded like the chain slapping. Started really researching this VVT replacement, and was very depressed on how spendy it was. However ever since then I've yet to hear it, and my tuner checked a cold to warm idle log of the VVT and didn't see anything out of the normal. I personally checked the chain via the oil cap when it was cold and it seemed really tight. I will probably pull the valve cover and really check it for some more peace of mind.... I'm buying the VVT kit sold in the VIP section. 150 bucks is a great deal. Probably needs a few more items to be a complete kit like those cam bolt gaskets.

Just sucks the Gen 1 has all these problems that were later addressed. Like this VVT, or the smoking turbo vs. the Gen 2. But the Gen 1 is just so much cooler looking haha!

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by HaXiR I've been stressing lately about this repair. I'm at like 84xxx and while at a Mazda meet this past weekend I started it up with the hood popped and heard a sound that sounded like the chain slapping. Started really researching this VVT replacement, and was very depressed on how spendy it was. However ever since then I've yet to hear it, and my tuner checked a cold to warm idle log of the VVT and didn't see anything out of the normal. I personally checked the chain via the oil cap when it was cold and it seemed really tight. I will probably pull the valve cover and really check it for some more peace of mind.... I'm buying the VVT kit sold in the VIP section. 150 bucks is a great deal. Probably needs a few more items to be a complete kit like those cam bolt gaskets. Just sucks the Gen 1 has all these problems that were later addressed. Like this VVT, or the smoking turbo vs. the Gen 2. But the Gen 1 is just so much cooler looking haha!

Some food for thought:

• Some guys are at 140k with no VVT noise.
  
• My car didnt have the traditional chain noise, but did make diesel clatter noises when hot and did have a stretched chain. The repair stopped the diesel clatter when hot.
  
• If you plan on selling the car, having a dealer do it could help you get the car sold for a better price.
  
• Fucking up the repair could cost you a lot more than what you might have saved doing it yourself. Pick your battles.
  
• If you're not well equipped with tools, you may end up spending on new tools and parts close to what you would just paying the dealer. Good excuse to buy some tools...true! (I search for the most minor of reasons to stock my tool box)

I found a dealer that did the work for <$1000. I would have spent $600 on one use tools and parts (together). For me, $400 wasn't worth the risk or headache. Even though I don't like having anyone touch "my girl".

Gen2's have inferior steering, one of the hallmarks of a great car. Gen2s look more appropriate for the under 25 crowd. Thank goodness Mazda jettisoned that styling.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by HaXiR I've been stressing lately about this repair. I'm at like 84xxx and while at a Mazda meet this past weekend I started it up with the hood popped and heard a sound that sounded like the chain slapping. Started really researching this VVT replacement, and was very depressed on how spendy it was. However ever since then I've yet to hear it, and my tuner checked a cold to warm idle log of the VVT and didn't see anything out of the normal. I personally checked the chain via the oil cap when it was cold and it seemed really tight. I will probably pull the valve cover and really check it for some more peace of mind.... I'm buying the VVT kit sold in the VIP section. 150 bucks is a great deal. Probably needs a few more items to be a complete kit like those cam bolt gaskets. Just sucks the Gen 1 has all these problems that were later addressed. Like this VVT, or the smoking turbo vs. the Gen 2. But the Gen 1 is just so much cooler looking haha!

One thing to remember, checking through the oil cap will not officially tell you how loose the chain is, as depending on where the pistons are in the stroke, at TDC, the upper chain will have some slack. Almost every single (inline 4) engine I have timed with a timing chain has this as when at TDC, all valves are closed and there is no tension in the chain.

Food for thought. I may be dealing with this same issue here shortly. When I initially went to check out my recently purchased 6, it originally had the timing chain rattle on start. I realized it was low on oil at the time and made note of it for when I was to return a few weeks later to pick it up. I went back a few weeks later to complete the purchase and topped off the oil and low and behold, the sound has subsided (don't forget, the VVT is oil pressure operated). When we got it home, made it cool down and no distinct noise

The only way to fully diagnose is to take the valve cover off.

[HaXiR]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX One thing to remember, checking through the oil cap will not officially tell you how loose the chain is, as depending on where the pistons are in the stroke, at TDC, the upper chain will have some slack. Almost every single (inline 4) engine I have timed with a timing chain has this as when at TDC, all valves are closed and there is no tension in the chain. Food for thought. I may be dealing with this same issue here shortly. When I initially went to check out my recently purchased 6, it originally had the timing chain rattle on start. I realized it was low on oil at the time and made note of it for when I was to return a few weeks later to pick it up. I went back a few weeks later to complete the purchase and topped off the oil and low and behold, the sound has subsided (don't forget, the VVT is oil pressure operated). When we got it home, made it cool down and no distinct noise The only way to fully diagnose is to take the valve cover off.

Hmm very interesting. Would keeping an eye on the VVT gauge on the AP from cold to warm idle show any problems if there were any? Or is the only fool proof way to take off the VC?

[HaXiR]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Some food for thought: Some guys are at 140k with no VVT noise. My car didnt have the traditional chain noise, but did make diesel clatter noises when hot and did have a stretched chain. The repair stopped the diesel clatter when hot. If you plan on selling the car, having a dealer do it could help you get the car sold for a better price. Fucking up the repair could cost you a lot more than what you might have saved doing it yourself. Pick your battles. If you're not well equipped with tools, you may end up spending on new tools and parts close to what you would just paying the dealer. Good excuse to buy some tools...true! (I search for the most minor of reasons to stock my tool box) I found a dealer that did the work for <$1000. I would have spent $600 on one use tools and parts (together). For me, $400 wasn't worth the risk or headache. Even though I don't like having anyone touch "my girl". Gen2's have inferior steering, one of the hallmarks of a great car. Gen2s look more appropriate for the under 25 crowd. Thank goodness Mazda jettisoned that styling.

That's true about the cost. But I guess it depends on how much shops in your area charge for the repair. And regarding the Gen 2, having inferior steering sounds like it's something that could be moded to fix? I know nothing about the gen 2, but even if you cant. I imagine the difference wouldn't be a whole lot compared to chronic smoking turbos and bad vvt/timing chains. Sign me up for the former any day of the week if I had the choice. lol

[TRQ STEER FTL]

So the kit from edgeauto isnt 100% complete?

[Raider]

I got everything in the kit I ordered.

[govertime]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Weird indeed. The female service writer at the dealer near me in Baltimore area didn't skip a beat as she gave me a $900 estimate. She even listed the parts. And I spoke to the mechanic afterwards and he mentioned he has done many such jobs.

Lex2007,

I'd PM you but I don't have enough posts. I was wondering which dealership...Russel? You mentioned a quote from them in the VVT How To thread. Was the work good, holding up? PM me if you prefer not to post publicly.

I'm gonna need to have mine done for the 2nd time (1st under warranty). Hope its not the dealer I've had warranty work done at. Their work has been awful and they quoted me over $2k.

Update - Russel quoted $15-1800 (8 hrs labor)

Thanks!!!

BTW, I've got a CX7 but my understanding is they share the same engine.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by govertime Lex2007, I'd PM you but I don't have enough posts. I was wondering which dealership...Russel? You mentioned a quote from them in the VVT How To thread. Was the work good, holding up? PM me if you prefer not to post publicly. I'm gonna need to have mine done for the 2nd time (1st under warranty). Hope its not the dealer I've had warranty work done at. Their work has been awful and they quoted me over $2k. Update - Russel quoted $15-1800 (8 hrs labor) Thanks!!! BTW, I've got a CX7 but my understanding is they share the same engine.

Russell Mazda / Subaru / VW . 6624 Baltimore National Pike, Catonsville, MD 21228
(866) 851-5407

They quoted me I think $850-900 without new chain guides. Then they tried to tell me it was more, because the service writer though it was a regular 3. But I had it in an email from her where I made it clear it was a Speed3 so she had to honor her quote. Dont know what to think about that. It took them 3 days to get it done. Not sure what that was about either.

I guess it depends on how hungry the mechanics are. The mechanic who did the work was a red haired guy. Very nice. Said he does side work...but you don't get a warranty for side work or a dealer's receipt.

[fornetti14]

I just replaced everything with the Edge Autosport kit and everything was included. I borrowed the timing tools locally, but I think you can get those from Edge now too.

[clivingston]

It seems like there are so many lists and kits with different parts I wish someone who has done this would post a typical parts needed, and going the extra mile list.
My list right now based on kits from eBay and people posting here is:

Variable Valve Timing Actuator
Timing Chain
Valve cover gasket
Serpentine belt??
The cam sprocket bolts x2
The cam friction washers: x2
Timing chain tensioner
bolt lock-c shaft
washer lock x3
chain guide
lever
RR Gasket
rtv silico
FRONT CRANK SEAL
Plug Blind
WASHER SEALING-HEAD COVER x 14
RING O

total 480 from Taska

Any thoughts?

[Raider]

Compare it and the OP, as well as from edgeautosport.com. I would not buy anything but OEM for this.

[shawnmos]

Just had mine done at the local dealership. They were able to do it for less than $1200 after tax and that was with them replacing with full synthetic oil and replacing the drive belts which I thought was a really good deal considering the local shops were about the same price.

However, I noticed that they did not replace the tensioner. Too late now but do you all think it will make that much of a difference in the long term? Supposedly they are supposed to last the life of the car.

[Jeff23spl]

it use engine oil pressure to push the chain so unless it is broken i wouldn't be afraid. The chain, the vvt and frictions washer are the critical parts...