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 Old 03-18-2016, 01:53 AM   #1
 
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Default How come a stage zero tune frin COBB requires a SF intake?

why is it that cobb offers stage 0 maps only for SF intake on their site? If I wanted to try a stage 0 tune wouldnt it be a stock car? seems a bit monopolistic to make it seem that to even try an AP you basically have to buy an aftermarket intake, otherwise your only option on the cobb site is a stage 1 map if you select a stock intake on their map finder thingy....

I live at altitude of 10k ft now and need to figure out if the knock i am getting is from a bad tune or what. But atm my AP v2 is sitting unistalled since I am not interested in increasing power on an engine that isn't even close to tuned for these conditions.

is there a stage zero map for a stcok intake anywhere? I just wanted to turn off my bloody EGR CEL(egr delted) not to mention get this car dialed in right for the altitude I now live at, so I wanted to do some good datalogging and maybe even install a 3 port ebcs and upgrade the MAP, while still keeping everything mostly stock in terms of power. I have had a protune in the past but at this point as i said before am interested in just running the car on a stock like tune without needing any aftermarket stuff to make it so, I alredy have a cp-e CAI, buying a cobb SF just to run stage 0 is redicules.... any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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 Old 03-18-2016, 04:46 AM   #2
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Well a stage 1 tune isn't going to increase power so just install the shit and stop over thinking it. Lol.
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 Old 03-18-2016, 05:17 AM   #3
 
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i guess....
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Cpe: FMIC, CAI, TIP, HPFP, bone engine mount
Cobb AP, Test pipe, turbosmart BPV, whitlenine swaybar
Turbine Tech: Extra front motor mount, both diff mounts +bushings
EGR Delete, mini 0803 Dash cam, Prosport Boost guage. Dash Hawk,
AWR: Trans mount with 88 duro bushings, End links front/rear(removed due to them being total garbage and got some moog stock ones for all around on rockauto.
17x7 Kosei K1 TS 15lb rims, goodyear 225/50r17 all season performance tires and RPM springs
Waiting to install: SPC Ball Joints, SS clutch line, lower engine mount bracket local car shop damaged during clutch install and thermal TB gasket and coolant inline plumbing line that can be turned on and off on demand
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 Old 03-18-2016, 05:47 AM   #4
 
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Any OTS map, stage 0, 1, 2, 3, 90 whatever, is going to need tinkering to properly fit your car and environment.

I'd encourage the 1 over the 0, and both are conservative. Load your choice & do a basic MAF Cal, just the closed loop portion to start while you do your troubleshooting for the KR symptom.

Is your sig mod list current? Changed plugs recently? Plug age/type/heat range/gap? Changed your oil recently? When do you get the KR symptom? Consistent load & RPM range, or does it vary? Do you change elevation substantially during your commute?
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 Old 03-20-2016, 05:19 PM   #5
 
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thx for the replies guys, the mod list needs updating which I will do now...

i guess ill try stage 1, as far as when I see knock its at like 10% throttle around 2k rpm and i wonder if it has to do maybe with the fact I did an EGR delete, since the egr valve works at part throttle to idle conditions right? and here it is hella cold right now(below 0 every night)

also I am sure my intake manifold needs cleaning, thats on my summer tiem to do list with a ton of other things like doing my timing chain vvt actuator and injector seals.

But really I think I need to go do a compression test before anything else, I was asking about stage 0 because I wanted to delete the EGR CEL mainly and figured I could do that if I am going to datalog with my AP v2, but to do that i need to install a new map if I am not mistaken with EGR CEL turned off. Just didn;t want to damage or push anything with stage 1 but seems you guys don't think it will do much I will try stage 1 since in actuality i have a the cp-e CAI still and they say any map made for stock intake will work with it, so that is usually what I look for. But with COBB taking down so many maps for anything but their intake I am starting to wish I just bought theirs to begin with. Since it seems to have so much more support than the cp-e one (since even trying to find stuff for a stock intake is a crapshoot lol)

Thanks again for your guys input, it is much appreciated.

p.s. I know I should just get an e-tune, but I am trying to do some maintanence before shelling out money for a tune, since I figure tuning a car with worn out parts is only going to need a re-tune once you replace them. and thx for the spark plug notice, I have had a set ready to swap for almost a year now lol
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Cpe: FMIC, CAI, TIP, HPFP, bone engine mount
Cobb AP, Test pipe, turbosmart BPV, whitlenine swaybar
Turbine Tech: Extra front motor mount, both diff mounts +bushings
EGR Delete, mini 0803 Dash cam, Prosport Boost guage. Dash Hawk,
AWR: Trans mount with 88 duro bushings, End links front/rear(removed due to them being total garbage and got some moog stock ones for all around on rockauto.
17x7 Kosei K1 TS 15lb rims, goodyear 225/50r17 all season performance tires and RPM springs
Waiting to install: SPC Ball Joints, SS clutch line, lower engine mount bracket local car shop damaged during clutch install and thermal TB gasket and coolant inline plumbing line that can be turned on and off on demand
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 Old 03-20-2016, 08:13 PM   #6
 
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Stages are for strippers.
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 Old 03-20-2016, 08:36 PM   #7
 
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Easy way to rule out knock, 1-2 gallons of e-85 in the tank if it's available (or meth)... You can knock on higher power levels but if it disappears you can infer it's not false knock... The tunes for certain intakes are just MAF calibrations, you should be doing this on each car for best results, there's a pretty good walk through around here somewhere on it. That would be the ideal solution regardless of what you bought. Any pro-tune will do this for you too since you mentioned it's down the road.
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 Old 03-21-2016, 07:52 AM   #8
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Or contact a protuner as you are obviously in over your head.
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 Old 03-21-2016, 08:38 AM   #9
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These cars knock a lot at part throttle. Wot knock is the only thing to be concerned with.

The Cobb sf is the only one with a stage 0 because they are the only onses that couldn't make an intake that would work with the stock tune without throwing a cel.
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 Old 03-21-2016, 06:34 PM   #10
 
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You can try an ots+ from some of the reputable e-tuners on here. I believe stratified is $50, and Freek is $75. I started with a Freek ots+ and had the egr delete code removed.
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