BOLT ONS!! Q & A

[Domino81]

Sometimes I feel like a woman in a man's body, do you sell a product for that?

[Philgire]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com I would definitely run stock hangers. Rubber = less noise, vibration, harshness. Bad for motor mounts, good for hanging exhaust on a street car. No other parts are necessary. You reuse the turbo gasket and the CPE DP is made with a large beaded end so it replaces the donut gasket from the factory and just hooks right up to an aftermarket 3" exhaust. Any of the inlet pipes create the louder whoosh. I've actually never been in one with a CAI so that might be louder.

I just bought my wife an 08 Speed3 with 6400 miles on the clock. The first mod I did to my car was a TBE and Cobb AP running stage 2 for an 05 STi, made a world of difference in power and drivablility. With such low miles on the Speed3 I am torn between buying a full set of motor mounts from either CP-E or Sure or starting off with just a Cobb AP and stage 1 tune. As she is not into high hp and spirited driving I am leaning more toward motor mounts for reliability especially the RMM. I have read the reviews for both the CP-E and Sure and seems the biggest difference is rubber vs. urethane. Was your basis above for saying "bad for motor mounts," because of material breakdown between rubber and urethane or because of NVH?

Cheers,
Mike

[faeker]

spit or swallow?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Philgire I just bought my wife an 08 Speed3 with 6400 miles on the clock. The first mod I did to my car was a TBE and Cobb AP running stage 2 for an 05 STi, made a world of difference in power and drivablility. With such low miles on the Speed3 I am torn between buying a full set of motor mounts from either CP-E or Sure or starting off with just a Cobb AP and stage 1 tune. As she is not into high hp and spirited driving I am leaning more toward motor mounts for reliability especially the RMM. I have read the reviews for both the CP-E and Sure and seems the biggest difference is rubber vs. urethane. Was your basis above for saying "bad for motor mounts," because of material breakdown between rubber and urethane or because of NVH? Cheers, Mike

Rubber just flexes too much for a motor mount. Of course, we here at MSF like everything as stiff as possible...

If I had to choose between a RMM and AP for your wife, I'd go with the RMM first. With the AP, you'd find yourself wanting A HPFP upgrade next to run more boost, then the modding bug would bite you HARD. Next thing you know you're putting in racing seats and a full roll cage.


Tapadatass

[HardHitter]

I bought my 2012 Mazdaspeed3 with tech on Saturday with around 17-20 miles on it. I promised myself that I would not mod the car with the car having a warranty but I don't know how much longer I can last.

I found $383 in my PayPal account that I did not know about and I found out you can finance for 6 months with 0% interest and that has led me to this thread and questions.

With that said, I am looking to add power and "sound" without violating any CARB laws (Live in CA). I'm looking to keep the engine bay "stock" looking to a smog tech (going with all black silicon/parts)

I was thinking the following setup for now but wanted to get your thoughts (If something isn't CARB legal, please let me know):

First Set of Mods:
SRI/TIP: Cobb (CARB legal?)
Autotech Hi-Volume Fuel Pump (I don't think the smog tech will know)
Forge Motorsports V2
RMM: Which brand and one do I go with?

Second Set of Mods (Occurs after warranty):
Cobb AccessPort
Cobb Downpipe (Carb legal?)
Cobb Exhaust

Third Set of Mods
Big Turbo

Is there anything I'm missing or you would suggest replacing or moving around?

[lilred]

Maybe I'm wrong but I Cobb intake is carb legal for gen 1 pending for gen 2, corksport is only genpu carb legal?

Removing a cat (downpipe) will not pass and violates carb but a test pipe can easily be swapped back for the test.

tapafuck

[turbo test]

Originally Posted by HardHitter I bought my 2012 Mazdaspeed3 with tech on Saturday with around 17-20 miles on it. I promised myself that I would not mod the car with the car having a warranty but I don't know how much longer I can last. I found $383 in my PayPal account that I did not know about and I found out you can finance for 6 months with 0% interest and that has led me to this thread and questions. With that said, I am looking to add power and "sound" without violating any CARB laws (Live in CA). I'm looking to keep the engine bay "stock" looking to a smog tech (going with all black silicon/parts) I was thinking the following setup for now but wanted to get your thoughts (If something isn't CARB legal, please let me know): First Set of Mods: SRI/TIP: Cobb (CARB legal?) Autotech Hi-Volume Fuel Pump (I don't think the smog tech will know) Forge Motorsports V2 RMM: Which brand and one do I go with? Second Set of Mods (Occurs after warranty): Cobb AccessPort Cobb Downpipe (Carb legal?) Cobb Exhaust Third Set of Mods Big Turbo Is there anything I'm missing or you would suggest replacing or moving around?

Maybe this is the wrong way to look at it but seriously you have a new car and if i'm not mistaken you have 5years before you have to worry about any smog certificates.

If anything start off with internals and an accessport and see how things work out. If for any reason you need to smog or get warranty work you can easily cover up traces of an accessport

Just my .02 cents

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

[Dumyz]

Got any CBE's laying around the shop that you'd want to give to me for free?!?!?

[Dream20b]

Not sure if this has been asked, but will my 3" ATP Downpipe bolt up to my stock cat-back?

[faeker]

Originally Posted by Dream20b Not sure if this has been asked, but will my 3" ATP Downpipe bolt up to my stock cat-back?

Because i filled my dickhole response quota i shall play nice; yes with an adapter. No i will not link the part.

tappy-tap-tappytalk

[Cujo]

I saw you guys offer the GFB Respons on your site. I was wondering what your opinion of it was.

[OverBoosted]

I just installed A COBB sri and I want to make sure the noise it is making is right. under low boost it almost sounds like my bpv is leaking. not sure as this is the first turbo'd car I've had with an upgraded intake. any advice would be helpful. I've tried searching but can't find an answer.

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by OverBoosted I just installed A COBB sri and I want to make sure the noise it is making is right. under low boost it almost sounds like my bpv is leaking. not sure as this is the first turbo'd car I've had with an upgraded intake. any advice would be helpful. I've tried searching but can't find an answer.

An aftermarket SRI will sound different than stock. Almost like a whistling sound. I am sure your fine.

[OverBoosted]

yea i found some vids on you tube and it seems right.

[jay32m]

Question: Is it possible for springs to warp (or shorten) if ridden around on blown struts for a good period of time? I ask because I had my struts and shocks replaced with Sensen's and now I'm getting a clunking noise when I hit bumps. The tech showed me how loose the springs were in the struts while in the air. He was able to move them and said it seems like the strut is too tall for the spring or something. I admit I probably over did it on the stockers that's why I ask. Do I need new springs now?

[The Nut]

Cobb SF is C.A.R.B. legal, TIH isn't. Who cares though, for us Gen2's we've got between 5-7 yrs. here in Cali before our 1st smog check. In the next few years there doing away with the standard smog check (at least the sniff test) anyway. They're just gonna plug into our OBD2 ports, make sure there are no codes, including ones being blocked, and send us on our way.

No aftermarket DP of any kind is legal. Our car has 2 CAT's, the most you can keep with a turbo back is one. So find a spot in the garage or (get a guy you go to).

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by OverBoosted I just installed A COBB sri and I want to make sure the noise it is making is right. under low boost it almost sounds like my bpv is leaking. not sure as this is the first turbo'd car I've had with an upgraded intake. any advice would be helpful. I've tried searching but can't find an answer.

When you start from a cold start, that whistling noise is the SRI sucking in rediculous amounts of air and spooling up your turbo. It's especially loud for the first couple of weeks cause 1) your not used to the sound. And 2) your ecu (reprogrammed or not) takes a while to get used to it. It'll get much quieter after a few weeks, but will still never sound as quiet as the stock choke box.

[OverBoosted]

its not a whistle noise. its the same sound the stock bpv makes when you let off the throttle, it just does it on spool up. Once I get to about 4-4.5rpm it starts to whistle. i'm assuming its just the sound of sucking the air in. I'm going to just check and make sure everything is tight in a little bit.

[moomooz12]

I'd actually be more worried if there was a whistle noise coming from my engine bay. The sound the sri makes is a sucking sound.

[OverBoosted]

Finally you tubed it and sounds like all the ones on there. Also checked and everything is nice and tight. Just wanted to make sure, thanks for all the input.

Tapatalked

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by OverBoosted Finally you tubed it and sounds like all the ones on there. Also checked and everything is nice and tight. Just wanted to make sure, thanks for all the input. Tapatalked

Mine sounds the exact same way. The air sucking sound is pretty loud when your not used to it and really screams when you get over 4000 rpm's. you should hear how load it is with an inlet hose on there too.

[OverBoosted]

I will soon, just waiting for the right one to pop up in the for sale section. And I thought I was going to mod this car...foolish me.

Tapatalked

[Burn69]

What size/offset 18 in wheel do I need to a 255/35/18 to fit with no rubbing front/rear? Also possible to use a 275/35/18 on 2012 speed3 w/o rubbing? Size/offset needed to clear?

[thatsmrgimp2u]

About to order my koni yellows, swift springs, and whiteline anti lift kit from edge. I'm not one to fiddle with shit once it's installed properly, that being said, what do you guys recommend for the rear rebound settings? Considering the rears have to be removed to adjust I'd like to get it comfortable the first go around. Car will more than likely not see a track again but I do like things to be a bit more aggressive. I was thinking somewhere in the middle but have no previous suspension experience and have nothing to compare it to. Thanks!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u About to order my koni yellows, swift springs, and whiteline anti lift kit from edge. I'm not one to fiddle with shit once it's installed properly, that being said, what do you guys recommend for the rear rebound settings? Considering the rears have to be removed to adjust I'd like to get it comfortable the first go around. Car will more than likely not see a track again but I do like things to be a bit more aggressive. I was thinking somewhere in the middle but have no previous suspension experience and have nothing to compare it to. Thanks! Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Good question. To be honest, it's all up to the end user and how you like it set up. Some people like it stiffer and some people like it not so much. Considering there's only 3 settings on the yellows, I would put it in the middle and see how you like it.

Originally Posted by Burn69 What size/offset 18 in wheel do I need to a 255/35/18 to fit with no rubbing front/rear? Also possible to use a 275/35/18 on 2012 speed3 w/o rubbing? Size/offset needed to clear?

Sorry this never got answered. I honestly don't know the exact offset need. If I were to guess, you'll need a +45 or less. I can tell you the 275 is going to be hard pressed to fit. Even if you do it, chances are it will rub. I know the GenPus have much nicer gaps to play with though. Check out the wheel and tire section for GenPus. That's where I go to see what others have done.

[Swinger13]

What size EWG fits on the CPE turbo manifold?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 What size EWG fits on the CPE turbo manifold?

It's a 44mm EWG flange

[Bob-o]

Did you guys run a dump tube on your shop car's EWG? Also was it a manifold mounted EWG? Or an EWG hotside?

Also does your EWG kit come with a dump tube and all the other goodies so its 100% bolt on?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Bob-o Did you guys run a dump tube on your shop car's EWG? Also was it a manifold mounted EWG? Or an EWG hotside? Also does your EWG kit come with a dump tube and all the other goodies so its 100% bolt on?

When we had the CPE mani on, we were still using the EWG on the turbine housing of the turbo. The kit on the site for the ATP EWG Bolt-On kit includes the dump tube, wastegate, turbo, and lines.

JP

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Burn69 What size/offset 18 in wheel do I need to a 255/35/18 to fit with no rubbing front/rear? Also possible to use a 275/35/18 on 2012 speed3 w/o rubbing? Size/offset needed to clear?

You will never be able to run anything wider than like 245 without rolling your fenders. Anyway, 235 should be more than enough, even the 450+whp guys here don't have wider tires than that (some of them may be using 245's though).
275 is going to be insane, inefficient and totally unnecessary. And your MPG will drop significantly along with the acceleration, handling and steering response. Oh, and running that wide in front will put a lot of stress on your power steering pump which may blow up in hot summer days.

Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u About to order my koni yellows, swift springs, and whiteline anti lift kit from edge. I'm not one to fiddle with shit once it's installed properly, that being said, what do you guys recommend for the rear rebound settings? Considering the rears have to be removed to adjust I'd like to get it comfortable the first go around. Car will more than likely not see a track again but I do like things to be a bit more aggressive. I was thinking somewhere in the middle but have no previous suspension experience and have nothing to compare it to. Thanks!

Usually when you think about purchasing a part you should know why you want it and what you expect from it. If you want it only for the cool factor then just set it to any stiffness but just make sure it's the same both in front and back. But here are some newby explanations about how the swaybars work:

Increasing the swaybar stiffness will increase the rigidity and will reduce the angle and distance the two shock absorbers will move one from the other. If you drive your car on a smooth track you may want stiffer settings. If you drive your car on the street or on bumpy tracks you may want a more elastic/soft setup.

If you change only the front sway bar for a stiffer one without making any other changes (camber?) you may end up understeering more on bumpy roads/tracks because the back of the car will have a softer setting and this will give it more grip.
If you put a stiffer swaybar in the back you will oversteer more (and unpredictably) on bumpy roads or tracks because the back of the car will jump more.

So if you want to change the swaybars make sure you change them both and you get a front+rear set from the same manufacturer. Personally I'd invest more in a better coil over setup and leave the factory sway bars. They are awesome for street driving and perfectly balanced, while the factory shocks and springs may not be.
That unless you track your car quite a bit and stiffer SB options for track days start making sense (even though some track guys sometimes disconnect the swaybar end links and track their car without the sway bar on some specific tracks). So choose wisely.

[kritz]

I saw the thread title and thought it was (NSFW) bolt on tatas.

[IamJamen]

I just installed my AT internals and now I am thinking I should buy myself a shiny CP-E TMIC. It's now or never since I am supposed to be saving for the ridiculous engagement/wedding ring she just has to have. Can you help me out with a convincing deal on a TMIC?

[Jhornbrook]

Originally Posted by IamJamen I just installed my AT internals and now I am thinking I should buy myself a shiny CP-E TMIC. It's now or never since I am supposed to be saving for the ridiculous engagement/wedding ring she just has to have. Can you help me out with a convincing deal on a TMIC?

Haha well I feel your pain my gf looks at that shit everyday and finds her perfect ring at least once a week. I decided to set up two funds. Car and ring. The car gets more because it doesn't talk back. Lol. But see what Tmic is the cheapest/best deal they all perform well and relatively equal.

[thatsmrgimp2u]

Originally Posted by mituc You will never be able to run anything wider than like 245 without rolling your fenders. Anyway, 235 should be more than enough, even the 450+whp guys here don't have wider tires than that (some of them may be using 245's though). 275 is going to be insane, inefficient and totally unnecessary. And your MPG will drop significantly along with the acceleration, handling and steering response. Oh, and running that wide in front will put a lot of stress on your power steering pump which may blow up in hot summer days. Usually when you think about purchasing a part you should know why you want it and what you expect from it. If you want it only for the cool factor then just set it to any stiffness but just make sure it's the same both in front and back. But here are some newby explanations about how the swaybars work: Increasing the swaybar stiffness will increase the rigidity and will reduce the angle and distance the two shock absorbers will move one from the other. If you drive your car on a smooth track you may want stiffer settings. If you drive your car on the street or on bumpy tracks you may want a more elastic/soft setup. If you change only the front sway bar for a stiffer one without making any other changes (camber?) you may end up understeering more on bumpy roads/tracks because the back of the car will have a softer setting and this will give it more grip. If you put a stiffer swaybar in the back you will oversteer more (and unpredictably) on bumpy roads or tracks because the back of the car will jump more. So if you want to change the swaybars make sure you change them both and you get a front+rear set from the same manufacturer. Personally I'd invest more in a better coil over setup and leave the factory sway bars. They are awesome for street driving and perfectly balanced, while the factory shocks and springs may not be. That unless you track your car quite a bit and stiffer SB options for track days start making sense (even though some track guys sometimes disconnect the swaybar end links and track their car without the sway bar on some specific tracks). So choose wisely.

I meant settings on the koni yellows. I have a rsb and really don't plan to get a front sway. And im not so lazy that I wont adjust a sway bar lol. It's removing the strut that I have reservations about. I thought they had more than three settings honestly. That being the case I'll go with the middle one, and set the front a tad softer for daily use, then even them up of I ever do hit a track.

Okay this has been wracking my brain today too... The bump stops (front and rear) I'm sure will have to be replaced. What I can't draw a conclusion on is if they should be cut at all. And if so, how much? The swift springs lower 1.2 and 1.1 for the rear iirc. Has anyone seen the how to for servicing your strut mounts rather than buying new ones?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[IamJamen]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook Haha well I feel your pain my gf looks at that shit everyday and finds her perfect ring at least once a week. I decided to set up two funds. Car and ring. The car gets more because it doesn't talk back. Lol.

Exactly! And she just loves it when I tell her that I don't need a ring because I'm not going to wear it anyway.

[specvspeedfreak]

Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u Okay this has been wracking my brain today too... The bump stops (front and rear) I'm sure will have to be replaced. What I can't draw a conclusion on is if they should be cut at all. And if so, how much? The swift springs lower 1.2 and 1.1 for the rear iirc. Has anyone seen the how to for servicing your strut mounts rather than buying new ones? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I wouldn't cut the bump stops at all. And if you are the type like me and do not want to mess with settings, get Bilstein SP. The Swift lower the ride on the gen1 less than the gen2. Somewhere along the lines of .6F/1.0R if I remember correctly.

[breakfstincluded]

SSP doesn't sell an oil return line kit that would fit a K04/BNR turbo right?

Just bigger Garret and Precision turbos?

[Alexander]

Hey, so I've been hearing that if you install a bov on our engines (instead of a bpv) that it will run like shit. Does anyone know why this would happen? That sounds really unusual to me

[Tyhackman15]

Originally Posted by Alexander Hey, so I've been hearing that if you install a bov on our engines (instead of a bpv) that it will run like shit. Does anyone know why this would happen? That sounds really unusual to me

Dude....search. It's been answered a million times, and there are solutions to make it work if you really need VTA for some reason.

[thatsmrgimp2u]

Originally Posted by Alexander Hey, so I've been hearing that if you install a bov on our engines (instead of a bpv) that it will run like shit. Does anyone know why this would happen? That sounds really unusual to me

There is tons of info on this around the site but I will help you out. In short the air that you would be sending into atmosphere is metered. Used to determine the amount of fuel going into the engine. So without recirculating the air you will get whackadoo trims and have rich conditions between shifts. If you must follow the rice path look into a "guardian Angel"

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2