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 Old 12-18-2017, 11:15 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by darkmx-6 View Post
It did make people more interested in racing me though so that was fun!
My car appearing stock has surely saved me from many races and potential impound/crushing.
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 12-18-2017, 11:16 AM   #42
 
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Here are some up close pictures of the ugly weld job




Any welders on here that can give some advice?

We used stainless filler and the tungsten we used was meant for stainless according to the welding shop.
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 Old 12-29-2017, 01:21 PM   #43
 
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I’ve been noticing that after I hit boost that my brakes and clutch feel funny. Sometimes after boosting hard the brake petal is harder to push. I’m guessing the brake 0booster check valve is bad. I’m going to try and replace that. I’ll do a little searching too to see if anyone else has had that problem.
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 Old 03-06-2018, 02:58 PM   #44
 
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Ballast went out... They are offering a refund of $25 so much for the 1 year warranty. I found another one That says it is from a lancer evolution. I guess we will see if this one will work better.

Question for you guys can the ballast be changed without taking off the bumper?
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 Old 03-18-2018, 09:07 AM   #45
 
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Do you need any parts? My car just died again and I'm looking to recoup some money.
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 Old 06-15-2018, 01:18 PM   #46
 
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Haven't really been on in a while, after several tries I finally said screw it with the stock HIDs and went LED. Several months later and still working great.

It sucked getting the bulb out and the new one in without removing the bumper. If I ever change the other side I guess I'll do a write up.

car only burns oil at idle, when the a/c is off. So I'm just going to have the tuner raise the idle speed and it should take care of that problem.

coolant overflow tank began to leak. So I'm going to replace it with an aluminum one from a Ford Falcon. It will take some welding and modification but I went this route because I don't want another plastic one that will fail on me again.

Brakes and clutch still have the scary problem after boosting that the brakes get hard to press ,the clutch feels funny, and engages early when I'm letting out the clutch.

Tried a one way check valve and the problem still exists. I'm going to try bleeding it next.

I have a different daily driver now so that should help getting this car fixed up.
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 Old 06-15-2018, 01:26 PM   #47
 
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not sure if I updated this because I'm lazy, but the Exhaust cutout is installed and works great except after it's been closed a while it rattles a bit. if I open and close it again it stops for a while ,but does it again later. I was reading up on this and it seems like even the high dollar ones do the same thing. Any one know anything about this?
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 Old 06-15-2018, 01:59 PM   #48
 
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My guess:
The motor closes the valve until tight and then cuts power. Over time, vibrations and air flow can work it open enough to allow it to rattle.
Perhaps a stronger return spring is needed.
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 06-19-2018, 08:12 AM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
My guess:
Over time, vibrations and air flow can work it open enough to allow it to rattle.
Perhaps a stronger return spring is needed.
I haven't taken it apart to see but I don't think it has a return spring.
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 Old 06-19-2018, 11:35 AM   #50
 
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Is there a way to add a return spring or is it all internal?
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 06-20-2018, 09:19 AM   #51
 
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looks like it is all internal,
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