Design's Long Term Ownership/Build Thread

[jtday]

Thanks for the update man. I've enjoyed reading your posts. As mentioned, I highly recommend taking a look at the s-ots tunes. They're load-based, safe, and have an incredible amount of knowledge/experience behind them. I'm at 277/318 in 90 degree temps and it cost $50. Also, kickass posts regarding your suspension journey. V2's are going in this weekend

[akurma]

i really enjoy this thread, i started to do a similar thing with my Mustang over on modded mustang forum keep us updated!

[Design]

It's been a few months since I last updated this thread. A few things to report at 133K:




Michelin AS/3 Tire Update

After 9 months and 15K, I'm happy to report that these tires are wearing VERY well. Still approximately 7-8 mm of tread left. I expect I'll get 30-35K out of these easily.

As expected, there's a slight increase in noise as the harder compound is exposed. But they are continuing to hold up surprisingly well in both wet and dry conditions. By comparison, I experienced a bigger performance loss with the Pirellis (and every other tire for that matter) once I crossed 10K. Simply the best A/S tire I've owned to date.




KW Coilover Update

I've now crossed 80K with the KWs and couldn't be happier. They continue to be dead quiet and compliant over most reasonable roads. I am noticing a slight increase in harshness over moderate to poor road conditions. But I am unable to determine whether this is more to do with deterioration of the bushings vs. damping/coil integrity. No leaks, rust, peeling, or seizing.




Ambient Temp Sensor Issue

I had posted in another thread that I was having issues with my AC compressor engagement. Turned out that it was related to false readings within the ambient temp sensor. Whenever the sensor reads 31* or less, the AC compressor shuts off to prevent lockup.

The weird thing was that I only encountered false readings during rain or after a wash. That usually means a bad sensor or an exposed wire. So I took a spay bottle and began spraying down each section with water, starting with the sensor, until I was able to replicate the issue.

Turned out the ambient temp sensor wiring was resting against metal behind the driver side parking light, causing an open circuit each time it got wet. So I wrapped in electrical tape and tied down the wire away from the metal assembly. Seems to have resolved the issue.




Oil Cooler Issue

I noticed a very slow leak coming from the oil cooler a few weeks ago. Turned out to be the gasket that seals the cooler and oil filter assembly together. Unfortunately, Mazda only offers this part with the oil cooler assembly. And buying a new one costs around $400 wholesale.

Somewhere along the way, Mazda recognized their mistake and redesigned the oil cooler in '08. But unfortunately for Gen 1 MS3 and MS6 owners, the original cooler "should" be replaced once the gasket fails. And that didn't sit well with me.

Fortunately, there are a couple options to service the Gen 1 Oil Cooler gasket:
- 1. Remove the rubber liner along the gasket and replace with high temp gasket sealant (i.e. Permatex Ultra Black 82180).
- 2. Purchase an aftermarket gasket from Dorman for around $30.

I chose to go with option 2, using the vendor below:
Mazda 3 5 6 CX 7 Oil Cooler Seal Gasket 14700 New Replacement Clean | eBay

There are several ways to access the oil cooler without draining anything but the oil from the filter assembly. You will need a box wrench to access the 15 mm bolt that sandwiches the cooler to the filter assembly. I chose to drain both the oil and coolant while I was there; here are the instructions I used:
- Removal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3Yx3rFnMuc
- Dis-assembly and inspection: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glhk_RQTH8k
- Service, reseal and re-install: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YO9mgpotcik

The inner ring of the aftermarket gasket is a TIGHT fit on the oil cooler. I had to sand the inner ring approximately 1/4 mm in order to fit. Otherwise the gasket seems to be holding up well. I'll report back after my next oil change.



One installation note; this method ONLY applies to Gen 1 coolers that are painted black, as per the photos below.

Gen 1:


Gen 2 with serviceable gasket:

[74te27]

Very nice blog. Thanks for the updates!

[Design]

Quick update at 139K.

I am currently tracking down an oil consumption issue which has become more noticeable the last month. I cleaned up the engine bay due to residue from November's oil cooler leak. Engine area continues to be mostly bone dry, which tells me I'm burning it through the turbo, the rings, or the intake/PCV.

I will say this now. This type of issue is exactly why a typical owner will blow right through the motor or turbo. This issue resulted in a sudden oil loss with 0 evidence of leaking, smoking or smell. And if the average owner isn't checking the level regularly (which many don't), it's a guaranteed rebuild shortly thereafter.

I'm fairly confident this is a PCV issue as I am noticing some mild oil seepage behind the alternator. I suspect the valve is stuck open causing crank case pressure to build; thereby forcing oil out the seals (and sucking out/burning the rest). If left unchecked, I imagine this can become a significant issue to the seals and downpipe/02 sensor. I'll have to pull the intercooler, intake and plugs to see where oil is pooling. I will also probably inspect the turbo for shaft play. From there I will likely swap the PCV valve, clean the entire intake and cold/hot pipes, then evaluate any further oil consumption. If that doesn't fix it, I will take it in for compression and leakdown.

More to come.

[Frequentflyer]

Just a quick question on the A/C compressor; my '08.5 seems to have the larger pulley. It was made in 1/08. I recently replaced the bearing in my clutch after near destruction, but I needed to gut the clutch out since it almost melted. I was able to salvage the pulley for now, but I really want to get a new compressor/clutch by summer time. I did replace the belt with a Dayco 5060910 belt, which is 91" long, which is what came up for my '08 off a parts search. It looks like '09's use a 90" belt, hence the smaller pulley. My compressor doesn't look like the compressor with the larger pulley on that site you posted. It's definitely the other compressor, but considering my 91" belt fit very tightly when I reinstalled it, I'm pretty sure I have a larger 129mm pulley. Any thoughts?

[Design]

If you do, that was built for the early 07 MS3 only. Get the Panasonic 105mm and a new belt if you can. It's a newer design and "supposedly" runs better.

Discount AC has the older design in stock (Genuine OEM) if you go that route:
Mazda 3 AC Kit | Part Number: 60-84447-RN | Discount AC Parts

[Frequentflyer]

Weird. The compressor in this pic looks like the one in my car (along with same pulley/cluch).

http://www.discountacparts.com/viewp...-02167&code=RC

Does anyone know if the 105 and 129mm clutches look the same? They definitely don't on Discount AC Parts.

[Design]

@meicalnissyen has experience with this.

[meicalnissyen]

Yes,
its confusing.
using discountacparts's website, one would think you use the small pulley
My compressor LOOKED exactly like the 105 compressor body, but had the 129 pulley. I have an early 07, I went thru 4 compressors before trying a 129, with the odd shaped housing it has lasted the longest, and acted right while taking refrigerant. thogh a couple of those 4 were just bad out of the box. the company stands behind the product, but there are expenses incurred with each swap.

I found belt length to be much less of an issue than I thought it would be.. a 24" breaker with a flush ground 14mm 6point is a great way to do that job.

I have a 105, essentially new, I'll post it in FS with signage if that would help

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer Just a quick question on the A/C compressor; my '08.5 seems to have the larger pulley. It was made in 1/08. I recently replaced the bearing in my clutch after near destruction, but I needed to gut the clutch out since it almost melted. I was able to salvage the pulley for now, but I really want to get a new compressor/clutch by summer time. I did replace the belt with a Dayco 5060910 belt, which is 91" long, which is what came up for my '08 off a parts search. It looks like '09's use a 90" belt, hence the smaller pulley. My compressor doesn't look like the compressor with the larger pulley on that site you posted. It's definitely the other compressor, but considering my 91" belt fit very tightly when I reinstalled it, I'm pretty sure I have a larger 129mm pulley. Any thoughts?

[meicalnissyen]

If the system has never been opend, and functions, you can do the mechanical swap yourself, and have a shop do a vac down and recharge. you should be good to go.
if the system has spent any time open, you need to replace the reciever dryer along with the compresssor and have a shop do a vac down and recharge. you should be good to go.

If the compressor has shit the bed interanlly, you need to replace the ex valve, the condensor, receiver dryer, and compressor. Flush the pipes/evap core while the components are out. youre doing this because when a compressor dies it showers the system with fine shavings, which will kill any piecemeal repars. back in the day, condensors were cleanable, now the passageways are to small. they get trasheshed ( i have 3 out back)
clean pipes, fresh components, and have a shop do a vac down and recharge. you should be good to go.

[Frequentflyer]

Thanks for the reply and sorry for the threadjack Design; although maybe a few people can still learn from the discussion. Like I said, I installed a 91" belt and even with a breaker bar on the tensioner, it wound up taking an extra hand to squeeze the belt over the AC compressor from below so I'm guessing I have a 129mm pulley, although like you've mentioned my compressor looks nothing like the compressor with round cylindrical-like housing. If that's the better compressor, I'll go with that one.

My system is still closed. My clutch is trashed and is INOP, but the AC was working before I blew the bearing on the clutch and practically melted everything in it. Given the fact the clutch costs more than a whole new compressor with new clutch, I figured I'd get a new compressor. Since I'm pretty sure my compressor didn't blow bits of itself through the system, I figured I could get away with a vac down and just replace compressor, drier and expansion valve, but not condensor with a complete flush. May be gambling on my part.

[802MS3]

Frequentflyer haven't seen your name in a while, glad you still got the car.

This is all great information. I just hope that I remember that its in Design's thread.

[meicalnissyen]

To be clear, there is no bearing on the clutch, the bearing youre referencing is the bearing that supports the pulley. When the AC is off, it is essentially an idler pulley, but has to be there. if it fails catastrophically, you loose the serp belt, (which is easy to route incorrectly btw) and are dead on the side of the road. the bearing is replaceable if caught early. in my case, it failed while roadtripping from austin to tampa, and with all the balls crushed out of the races, the only thing holding the pulley sort of in position was the clutch plate's m6 retaining screw. There is a thread on replacing the bearing, which is an option for you provided you have enough meat on the clutch to function, and the pulley did not flop around enough to take out the stator behind it

jack over, PM me if you wanna chat about your specifics

[Design]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 Frequentflyer haven't seen your name in a while, glad you still got the car. This is all great information. I just hope that I remember that its in Design's thread.

I will try to log all relevant discussions on the first page.


Quick update on the oil issue. I pulled the breather tube on the intake and noticed a good buildup of oil inside. It is not dripping down the intake but I suspect it's enough to explain the oil consumption I have now. I also noticed the outlet has oil buildup around the seals. I can't confirm if this is a normal condition since our PCV already generates higher than normal crank case pressures. But combined with the oil seeping near the alternator, this would explain a lot. See pictures below.

I've been researching the replacement procedure and can't believe Mazda chose to hide the valve behind the IM. The battery, intake, IC, throttle body and manifold will all likely be removed. For first-timers, this is easily a weekend job - especially if your tool selection is limited. So it looks like I'll be cleaning the intake valves along with replacing the PCV valve in the upcoming weeks. Thanks to members dougefresh_, superskaterkes, and Jimmer307 for the detailed write-ups.
How To: Change your stock PCV Valve and Venturi Set Up

[meicalnissyen]

Fine Grade Walnut Shell Blast Media - Harbor Freight Tools
21 Oz. Hopper Gravity Feed Spot Blaster Gun

This is a good way to do it

[Design]

Quick update at 146K:

Good news and bad news.
- Tested the PCV; operates normally with one-way flow.
- Compression test good; 5% dip in cylinder #3 .
- Leakdown good; Max 10% loss in all cylinders.
- Re-inspected intake and IC piping. No excessive oil accumulation.

At this point all data suggests a leak on the exhaust side of the turbo. Synonymous with most high mileage turbo failures. So it looks like I will be in the market for another low mileage OEM KKK K04 (09+) and factory downpipe to replace the ones I have now. More to come.

[Design]

Update 150K:

Oil Consumption Issue:

After months of researching and collecting parts, I finally got the turbo replaced. I was fortunate to find a used 2nd Gen turbo with sub-50K. And the owner ran it with nothing more than an intake. Also, since I had been dumping oil the last 10K, I decided to swap out the DP while I was there. This was an odd issue as there was no smoke at idle and very little at WOT; just very aggressive oil consumption.

A lot of folks have asked what caused the failure. We suspect it was a bad turbo exhaust seal due to over-oiling. As most of us know, the factory PCV builds higher than normal crankcase pressure at idle, causing a partial blockage in the return line. That in turn can put excessive pressure on the seals as there is relatively little restriction in the oil feed line. It can also cause coking in the turbo as the oil literally "cooks" in one spot over time. I suspect this is also related to my oil cooler gasket failure, along with oil seepage near the alternator.

This is really only a problem with the Gen 1 PCV, as the Gen 2's have revised turbo oil inlet passages and a revised valve cover. In my case, had I caught early enough, a simple $30 restrictor bolt would have prevented this problem from occurring so early. Long term, Mazda has supplied a ventilation kit with a revised valve cover and TIP (Part ID L3Y1-13-S80B).
The final smoke at idle fix from Mazda TSB 01-002/11 dated 2/23/11

It's only been about 30 miles but as far as I can tell, the smoke is gone. I've also noticed better throttle response under boost, with PSI peaking @ 17.5 vs. 16 on the old turbo. Time will tell if this fix is permanent. But for only a few hundred in parts, I feel this approach was well worth it. Worst case, I now have a spare turbo I can rebuild should the issue resurface.


AC Compressor Bearing

I had noticed some unusual noise under the hood. Along with intermittent AC, I decided it was time to pull the serpentine and inspect the pulleys. Sure enough, the AC compressor pulley was shot. Fortunately, I had a properly functioning pulley from the previous AC compressor I replaced.

To my dismay, after pulling apart the clutch and pulley, I realize now that Discount AC Parts sold me a base Mazda 3 compressor. It is a genuine Panasonic part, just the wrong one. And it explains now why the kit was so inexpensive. I take partial blame for not inspecting the parts more closely. And fortunately, MSF has a thread on this very issue.
A/C compressor clutch Finally a cheap Fix!!

I was able to source a similar Mazda 3 bearing through Autozone for $26, manufactured by Santech. And I was able to swap it out without having to remove the compressor assembly itself. However, after inspecting the clutch, I realized some excessive wear on the clutch friction material; likely from the bearing failure and excessive lateral play. Amazon offers a relatively cheap clutch kit, complete with pulley and coil. So I will replace the clutch this weekend with very little downtime. Hopefully this will give me another 50-75K before I source a remanufactured MS3-specific compressor. Combined with the parts from my old one, I don't feel I need to purchase another brand new.


KW Coilover Update

As many know I had been running the KW V2 coilovers for nearly 90K. They have continued to be dead quiet with no noise. However, I was noticing the front struts beginning to get weak. So I decided it was time to send them in for inspection. Dealing with KW is fairly easy. You fill out an RMA sheet with your coilover specs and proof of purchase. Then send to them for an RMA number. Within a week I had brand new strut inserts, bump stops, dust shields and associated hardware. Cost me a total of $26 in shipping. I am beyond impressed with KW's support; yet another reason to go with quality suspension.


Michelin Pilot A/S-3 Update

At 35K the Michelins are now worn down to 3/32 all around. They have worn surprisingly well and have maintained acceptable traction at all stages of their wear life. And I only noticed a slight loss in wet performance as the tires wore down past 5mm. Something I cannot say with any other tire I've owned, including the factory Potenzas. I will say like all A/S tires, they do get a little noisy the last 40% of their life. But for the 1-2 trips a year I do in the snow, I feel these are a fair compromise for summer-only tires. I've already picked up a new set of A/S-3's and will get them installed by this weekend.



That's it for now. Thanks for looking!

[Design]

Quick update after 400 miles. Oil consumption has slowed but not to a rate I had hoped. With strong compression and leakdown numbers, all evidence is pointing towards worn oil control rings. This is not an isolated issue with our cars, as evident in the thread below:
Mandinca's Oil Consumption Problem

So with a spare DP/MP on tap, I will likely ride things out for the next year or two. Then hand off to someone local wanting a cheap project car. Until then I'll keep updating this thread with any other things that come up.

[Gorky_Park]

Just read 2 pages of your MS3 journey. Thanks for sharing, really enjoyed the read. I'm at 84K now and have couple of mods, primarily fo power (AP with pro tune, AT internals, Cobb SRI and TIP, and M2 DP on the way).

Ran into your thread because my car started to consume some oil. I am starting with PCV valve, and see where I go from there. If it's due to turbo seals, BNR S3 or S4 will be next.

Looking forward to your next update!

[Design]

I thought I would update this thread since it's been a while. Currently at 167K. Few noteworthy items:



AC Compressor:

I mentioned that The OEM Panasonic compressor that I replaced at 103K started making some serious noise around 150K. I chalked it up to a bad AC compressor pulley bearing. I used the thread below to swap it out:
A/C compressor clutch Finally a cheap Fix!!

The pulley and clutch from my original factory compressor were still in good condition. But I learned during the swap that both Panasonic and ALL aftermarket AC suppliers sell the AC compressor based on the 105 MM Mazda 3 design (with a 6 groove pulley). So I picked up a smaller Mazda 3 bearing at AutoZone for the swap.

Did it work? Yes, for a month. Until the same failure happened again. Lots of noise and a failed bearing assembly. This told me that the compressor CHRA was likely out of alignment. Why? The Mazda 3 design has a smaller CHRA, presumably due to the Mazda 3's dedicated AC pulley. And the load from the MS3's serpentine belt is significantly higher. Over time it likely caused the CHRA to become warped/bent which in turn chewed up the bearings.

With the original factory compressor in good condition, took a risk and reused it. Mated the compressor with a Cooltech 124 MM clutch and coil kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Cl...rbo+clutch+kit

So far no issues after 8K.



Power Window Driver's Switch

I was getting intermittent issues with the driver's side power window failing to go back up. After looking at various causes, I determined this was likely due to a worn contact. Fortunately we have a write-up on how to disassemble and clean the switch without having to spend $200 on a new one:
Driver side power window wont work

I had to scrape the metal contacts a few times but this eventually solved my issue. Hopefully this helps others as well.


Oil Consumption Round 2:

I mentioned previously that we had identified the oil consumption issue as being related to soot accumulation on the oil control rings. Unfortunately there's no way to cure this without doing a re-ring or rebuild. Most have suggested that if you're going to pull the head and oil pan to get to the pistons, might as well go all the way and do a rebuild.

I have done several piston soaks (one very aggressive one through our local Mazdaspeed mechanic). And while oil consumption improved slightly, it continues to burn a quart every 200-400 miles. So I'll continue to add oil, do a piston soak before each oil change, and replace the 02/DP when needed. Our local builder, Jordan Keifover, has a box of OEM pistons that all have soot accumulation on the oil control rings. And it seems the best way to minimize this issue is to continue to use high detergent oil and fuel. So while Rotella may have a lot of internet hype, it's higher detergent content seems well suited for our cars.

With brand new long blocks costing 3100, it's very tempting to give this car a new heart and keep for track duty. But family priorities dictate that this car will likely have to be sold in favor of another family hauler within the next 18 months.

That's it for now. Thanks for reading!

[Nliiitend1]

My driver window is having the same issue lately. Seems to work fine if I "load" the switch correctly by sort of pulling up and to the side instead of up, so I figured it is probably a contact issue as well...

Just haven't had a chance to get in there and try to fix it yet. Good to know you've had some success there.

[Frequentflyer]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 My driver window is having the same issue lately. Seems to work fine if I "load" the switch correctly by sort of pulling up and to the side instead of up, so I figured it is probably a contact issue as well... Just haven't had a chance to get in there and try to fix it yet. Good to know you've had some success there.

I just replaced mine with a cheaper knock-off Chinese-made unit I got from Rock Auto after years of the same issue. The OE switch is almost $200. I think I paid around $130 for the Rock Auto one. Wish I had searched a little more and knew I could have fixed it myself. I think I even threw the old switch away. Doh!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Shwaykid]

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer I just replaced mine with a cheaper knock-off Chinese-made unit I got from Rock Auto after years of the same issue. The OE switch is almost $200. I think I paid around $130 for the Rock Auto one. Wish I had searched a little more and knew I could have fixed it myself. I think I even threw the old switch away. Doh! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I got lucky and found a Speed at a local junker. $30 for the whole driver-side switch.

[Design]

In talking with a few local heads, seems to be a pretty common issue on both the 3/MS3. Contact cleaner and light grade sand paper should do the trick. Mine definitely had burn marks.

[Dano]

my front windows each have an issue when the car is really hot, like after sitting in a parking lot in 90-100F weather. I can click them up and down a few times and get them working. sometimes I have to wait for the AC to cool off the interior a bit before they work again.

not 100% sure that is my problem but will be giving that write-up a go here soon.

thanks.

[Bujwazay]

Originally Posted by Dano my front windows each have an issue when the car is really hot, like after sitting in a parking lot in 90-100F weather. I can click them up and down a few times and get them working. sometimes I have to wait for the AC to cool off the interior a bit before they work again. not 100% sure that is my problem but will be giving that write-up a go here soon. thanks.

I have the same problem with my driver's side window...tried lubing up the window seals, cleaning the track, etc. but still no luck...might have to pull the switch apart as well

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Frequentflyer]

Originally Posted by Bujwazay I have the same problem with my driver's side window...tried lubing up the window seals, cleaning the track, etc. but still no luck...might have to pull the switch apart as well Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Yeah it is the switch. The knock off switch I got doesn't feel like it's gonna last too long either.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Design]

Update at 172K.

Got around to replacing a bad driver's side HID bulb. Replacing is fairly straightforward but annoying:
- Remove bumper
- Remove headlight
- Detach HID cover and burner

It can be done with the bumper/headlight installed. But probably worth the extra 10-20 mins to remove them and avoid the frustration. If you do, be sure to detach the ambient temp sensor and foglight connectors. More info here (including bumper/headlight diy links):
Krystm's Garage ? Mazda 3 Mods and More! » Tutorial: H.I.D. Installation

The process for troubleshooting is simple:
- Inspect/swap the bulbs to rule out a bad HID.
- If issue follows to other side, inspect burner/ballast assembly for water damange.

My issue was the bulb would fire up, turn pink, then shut off within 1-2 mins. Clearly indicating it was near end of life. An OE replacement is available on Amazon for ~$45. (Phillips D2S 35W).

That's it for now. Thanks for reading!

[meicalnissyen]

just came back to check your thread, good to see you're still with the car. lol, I've done the soak thing as well, I think I have a bad jug, but the car runs fine, so, until I have to do VVT, I have no intention of buying a head gasket. that said, I figured I may be able to free up the rings (posssibly) with little expense, and zero risk. I used berrymans and someother super carbon desolver overnight soak, and ocasional back and forth turns on the crank to move the rings in the lands a bit.
still playing fuc-fuc with the AC huh? I just do not understand why moderate change in pulley has such a devastating effect, but it does

Originally Posted by Design I thought I would update this thread since it's been a while. Currently at 167K. Few noteworthy items: AC Compressor: I mentioned that The OEM Panasonic compressor that I replaced at 103K started making some serious noise around 150K. I chalked it up to a bad AC compressor pulley bearing. I used the thread below to swap it out: A/C compressor clutch Finally a cheap Fix!! The pulley and clutch from my original factory compressor were still in good condition. But I learned during the swap that both Panasonic and ALL aftermarket AC suppliers sell the AC compressor based on the 105 MM Mazda 3 design (with a 6 groove pulley). So I picked up a smaller Mazda 3 bearing at AutoZone for the swap. Did it work? Yes, for a month. Until the same failure happened again. Lots of noise and a failed bearing assembly. This told me that the compressor CHRA was likely out of alignment. Why? The Mazda 3 design has a smaller CHRA, presumably due to the Mazda 3's dedicated AC pulley. And the load from the MS3's serpentine belt is significantly higher. Over time it likely caused the CHRA to become warped/bent which in turn chewed up the bearings. With the original factory compressor in good condition, took a risk and reused it. Mated the compressor with a Cooltech 124 MM clutch and coil kit. https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Cl...rbo+clutch+kit So far no issues after 8K. Power Window Driver's Switch I was getting intermittent issues with the driver's side power window failing to go back up. After looking at various causes, I determined this was likely due to a worn contact. Fortunately we have a write-up on how to disassemble and clean the switch without having to spend $200 on a new one: Driver side power window wont work I had to scrape the metal contacts a few times but this eventually solved my issue. Hopefully this helps others as well. Oil Consumption Round 2: I mentioned previously that we had identified the oil consumption issue as being related to soot accumulation on the oil control rings. Unfortunately there's no way to cure this without doing a re-ring or rebuild. Most have suggested that if you're going to pull the head and oil pan to get to the pistons, might as well go all the way and do a rebuild. I have done several piston soaks (one very aggressive one through our local Mazdaspeed mechanic). And while oil consumption improved slightly, it continues to burn a quart every 200-400 miles. So I'll continue to add oil, do a piston soak before each oil change, and replace the 02/DP when needed. Our local builder, Jordan Keifover, has a box of OEM pistons that all have soot accumulation on the oil control rings. And it seems the best way to minimize this issue is to continue to use high detergent oil and fuel. So while Rotella may have a lot of internet hype, it's higher detergent content seems well suited for our cars. With brand new long blocks costing 3100, it's very tempting to give this car a new heart and keep for track duty. But family priorities dictate that this car will likely have to be sold in favor of another family hauler within the next 18 months. That's it for now. Thanks for reading!

[Design]

It's not really the pulley. It's the CHRA to which it attaches. It's about 25-25% smaller/weaker than its MS3 counterpart. The symptoms suggest the pulley/clutch fall out of balance due to a warped compressor CHRA.

I'm going to try a more aggressive de-carb solution this time around. The oil consumption is slowly getting worse.

[Design]

Update at 180K. Still eating a quart every so often. Couple things to report:


CEL P2009 - Variable Tumble Solenoid Circuit Low

This one has been bugging me for a bit. In most cases, this type of failure is tied to the black box that sits on top of the intake manifold. Troubleshooting involves cleaning and inspecting the electrical connectors, inspecting all VTCS connectors, and checking for vaccum leaks. No improvement. After that, most suggest replacing the solenoid valve/black box ($100).

COBB also mentions that this can be caused by carb buildup on the intake runners which restricts movement of the VTCS actuator. It can be checked by manually moving the actuator which is located above the throttle body. Sure enough, I could feel resistance in the actuator. Which is odd since I had a valve cleaning done recently.

Not wanting to open the IM again, I decided to try an unconventional approach of spraying GDI cleaner into the throttle body at operating temps. The idea is that the combination of heat and the cleaning agent should help soften any remaining buildup in hard to reach areas. To my surprise, it worked. Resistance in the actuator is now gone. The code has been gone for 7K and low speed idle has also improved. To do this right, the IM really should be completely removed and soaked in a cleaning agent. But for those who want to try this approach using a $10 can of GDI cleaner, I can say it's worth trying. You can read more about the details here:
Could it really be this easy? Crc intake valve cleaner for gdi engines!



Fuel Pump/Filter Issue

I've noticed that the car takes an extra few moments to turn over during cold starts. To me, this suggests an issue with a weak in-tank fuel pump or resistance in the line, like a dirty fuel filter. I threw in a bottle of Techron fuel treatment after getting good results following a P0401 code (clogged EGR). It took about 120 miles. But to my surprise the cold startup symptoms went away.



Car still runs and drives great. So the plan is to continue driving until Summer. That's it for now. Thanks for looking!

[Design]

Update at 192K.

Car still runs great but continues to burn oil. Few updates below:

Passenger Motor Mount

Pretty easy to spot a bad motor mount as the Mazda one is fluid filled. Had motor mount fluid all over the passenger engine bay. Most know that Mazda uses very soft mounts to minimize NVH. And the Gen 1 OEM replacement is well over $300. Fortunately, the Gen 2 PMM is under $100 wholesale. It's the exact same part without the black counterweight. I ordered the Gen 2 and swapped the counterweight over. Few photos:











Coolant hose

Around 184K I sprung a 5 mm leak in the coolant hose between the engine block and driver's side radiator. Had a tough time chasing down as it would only leak under load. I also noticed the reservoir hose unclipped over the radiator fan - a common problem on Gen 1s.

Coolant Leak for me

To add insult to injury, no local dealer had the hose in stock. A 4 day downtime waiting for the main hose to come in. I ended up putting zip ties around the reservoir hose to the radiator. So far so good.






Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder

Around 184K I noticed I was losing brake fluid from the reservior. I chased down to a small puddle just below the transmission. Pulled the skid plates and saw this on the slave cylinder:




Fortunately the leak was slow and would allow me to drive the car (albeit carefully) while the new part was being ordered. The part itself is cheap. But it's recommended to replace both the Master Cylinder and Slave at the same time. I was never given the choice; 2 days later the MC failed, with the clutch pedal going straight to floor. Frustrating but gave me the excuse I needed to do both.

The slave is easy to access and requires 3 connectors & 15-30 minutes to do. BUT, be sure to swap the o-ring from the old Salve cylinder to the new one. More here:

Leaky Slave Cylinder


The MC requires removing the intake, battery, tray, ECU harness and clutch pedal assembly to replace. Another 4 day downtime waiting for the right parts to come in. But the clutch feels strong again after replacing both.



AC Relay

At around 186K my AC stopped blowing cold. I immediately thought the AC coil had failed since I had used an aftermarket kit mated to the factory compressor. To my surprise, the Cooltech AC coil, clutch and pulley are still going strong. With the help of a shop, we tracked this down to the AC relay ($20).



CEL P2009 - Variable Tumble Solenoid Circuit Low & Slow Starts

This came back after 10K and have chased down the issue to blowby. In short, the increase oil consumption is causing deposits to accumulate on the EGR and intake runners. This can be mitigated through routine cleaning and/or induction service. But at the rate it burns oil, it can quickly become impractical.



Epilogue

This recent bout of issues had me seriously contemplating the car's future. It's a terrific platform when it runs - a frustrating one when it doesn't. And I'm simply too busy with family and work to invest a lot of time into the car. After considering all options, including rebuilding the car with a new crate motor, I've decided to sell. So the hunt begins to find an educated buyer who's versed in all things MS3.

I'll set up a FS thread soon (please don't inquire here). It's been a great ride and the best car I've owned to date. Thanks for reading!

[Nliiitend1]

I'm gonna miss these updates. This thread has been a great illustration of your ownership experience and I, for one, have enjoyed it immensely.

Best of luck with the sale!

[Design]

Thanks. I will definitely miss it when it's gone.

[whatsabrooklyn]

hey, i was reading thru some of your posts for your car, definitely a solid read... did you change your mind and keep the car? if you sold it, any plans on getting another one? any updates with the oil problem?

[Design]

Sorry I'm rarely here anymore. No, sold it last year to a guy who was knowledgeable in motor builds. He took it as is, and had full knowledge of its history/issues. I've moved on but hoping that Mazda does another Mazdaspeed platform in the future.

[ShroomyHigh]

I have a 2013 ms3 and have owned it for 2 years. Bought it bone stock with 14k miles on it and now have 47k. Have never taken it out of traction control and probably only to WOT three times. I would love to do stuff to it but it's my DD and even doing it right as I have read repeatedly just not sure at the mileage it is at if I would break something. Very nice to read that it was great for you almost to 200k with just regular crap breaking. Thank you for your thorough write ups.