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 Old 03-25-2012, 09:19 AM   #1
 
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Default Car won't start...

So yesterday I left work and everything was fine. Drive home shut the car off just like I do every day of my life.

Hang out for about an hour and go out to my car because I need to remove my little 10" subwoofer to make room for some wheels I'm about to go pick up.

So I open the hood, remove the fuse from my power wire. Put the fuse holder back together, proceed to the hatch and unhook my sub.

Get ready to leave and the car won't start.

I have the tech package so I have the smart key. The key light on the dash that normally lights up green is lighting up red. And same with the light on the push to start button...both red.

So I run the scanner on my AP and it's coming up with 4 codes:

P1260 - Anti-Theft System Signal Detected - Engine Disabled
U0156 - Lost Communication With Information Center "A"
U0140 - Communication error to PJB
U0155 - Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Control Module

So what the heck is causing this?

At first I thought maybe my battery in my Smart Key was dead, so I tried my other key still nothing. I tried the manual override by putting the key in the car and starting and still nothing.

I had a Stage one OTS tune on the car, so I uninstalled the AP and still nothing.

So at this point I disconnect the battery and let it sit for a while. Reconnect the battery and go to get in the car. Press the clutch in and the key on the dash and the light on the button are green...til I try and start the car again and they instantly turn red.

So does anyone have any idea what would be causing this to happen? A fuse or wire I can check?

I'd really rather not have this thing towed to Mazda if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance for any info...
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 Old 03-25-2012, 10:02 AM   #2
 
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IDK, but a free bump so someone can chime in and save you a tow. good luck
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 Old 03-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #3
 
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Yeah this sounds bad, did you change out the fuse that you were messing with....
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 Old 03-25-2012, 10:15 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by ScarMS3 View Post
Yeah this sounds bad, did you change out the fuse that you were messing with....
I think it was a fuse to the sub/amp that he pulled form the power wire, not a fuse he pulled from the car. that's how I read it anyway...if not, the missing fuse is probably part of the issue...
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 Old 03-25-2012, 10:17 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by leon78 View Post
IDK, but a free bump so someone can chime in and save you a tow. good luck
I appreciate it!

Originally Posted by ScarMS3 View Post
Yeah this sounds bad, did you change out the fuse that you were messing with....
Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
I think it was a fuse to the sub/amp that he pulled form the power wire, not a fuse he pulled from the car. that's how I read it anyway...if not, the missing fuse is probably part of the issue...
You are right, it's the fuse that runs inline with the power wire going to the amp...

So all factory fuses are still in the car.
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 Old 03-25-2012, 10:19 AM   #6
 
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Well since you donated I would download the shop manual and see what it says about the issue...could be they have a diagnostic for that in there. I would start with the fuse box and any fuses labeled security or something like that. But I'm also not skilled in electrical crap so I don't know.
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 Old 03-25-2012, 08:40 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by ScarMS3 View Post
Well since you donated I would download the shop manual and see what it says about the issue...could be they have a diagnostic for that in there. I would start with the fuse box and any fuses labeled security or something like that. But I'm also not skilled in electrical crap so I don't know.
Yea, I looked through it. It's all pretty techincal.

I'm throwing in the towel, I'll be taking it to the dealership tomorrow. Luckily I have 6k miles and 9 months left on my bumper to bumper warranty...

Hope they don't give me crap about my intake, lol. I also have a RMM and solid shifter bushings but I doubt they'll see that stuff...who knows though.
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 Old 03-25-2012, 08:44 PM   #8
 
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I would check all other fuses and relays. If they are good, you may have a module problem. Bcm or wcm possibly

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 Old 03-25-2012, 11:24 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Teethkikr View Post
I would check all other fuses and relays. If they are good, you may have a module problem. Bcm or wcm possibly

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Yep, check all fuses in the engine compartment box as well as the one in the dash.

You need to remove two fuses from the interior fuse box to totally disable the audio system and message center, #20 and #22 IIRC. One is a larger square 30A and the other a 7.5A mini fuse.
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 Old 03-25-2012, 11:30 PM   #10
 
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^^^

Pull all the fuses and check them all properly. Sure hope you ran the power wire correctly and had the proper size fuse on it so you diddnt fry the ECU.
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 Old 03-26-2012, 11:38 PM   #11
 
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Alright, well first of all thank you for everyone that helped out giving suggestions.

I figured it out.

Second, I suck at life.

So here's the situation.

I'm running a Infinity BassLink II off of the factory head unit through a line out converter.

When I pulled the fuse for the 8ga power wire, it didn't even dawn on me that I needed to also tape off the remote turn on wire that is running from an accessory source up under the dash.

So after I unhooked all the wires from the BassLink, and tried to start the car the remote wire grounded out and caused the fuse to blow on the circuit that the wire was tapped into.

The wire I used to get my remote turn on, is the same wire that was used from the dealer to install the Home Link mirror. Which turns out is a very important wire.

So last night I'm laying in bed at 1:30am and it hits me what I've done. Go out to the car, turn the ignition on and sure enough the mirror isn't turning on either. Check all the fuses inside the car and sure enough I have a blown fuse.

Replace it and she fires right up.

I'm so mad that I didn't go through the fusebox inside the car earlier. I checked everything under the hood but not in the car cause I honestly thought there was no way it was a fuse in the car.

So there you have it...I'm an idiot.
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Last edited by ahfunaki; 03-27-2012 at 12:46 PM.
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 Old 03-27-2012, 01:00 AM   #12
 
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Wow, good thing you didn't end up at the dealership for that!

Glad to hear you were able to figure it out on your own - we all have senior moments.
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 Old 03-27-2012, 05:41 AM   #13
 
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Glad you got it figured out. Know anything about direct injection?? Lol. My car has been down for over a week now...

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 Old 03-27-2012, 12:47 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Teethkikr View Post
Glad you got it figured out. Know anything about direct injection?? Lol. My car has been down for over a week now...

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Not really, but if I'm laying in bed tonight and the answer to your problems pops in my head I'll be sure to let you know...hahah
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Torque Solutions Delrin Shift Knob | Block8Head Dual Defrost Pod | Aeroforce Interceptor | Prosport Evo Boost Gauge

show | BC Racing BR Coilovers w/Koyo | SPC Rear Camber Arms | Avid.1 AV-06 18x8 +42 225/40 | 2011+ Tech Headlights | Corksport Tow Plate |
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 Old 03-27-2012, 01:11 PM   #15
 
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Lol. We got it solved actually.

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 Old 03-28-2012, 09:21 PM   #16
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You win some, you lose some, we've all done stupid shit like that at one time or another. I replaced all 4 plugs and wires (and distributer cap and rotor remember those) on my 1988 Ford Escort. Started it up, ran like shit. Idled but barely. I told my friends who were there "it'll smooth out.". Words those dipshits will never let me live down. Anyway after staring at it for a minute waiting for it to smooth out I shut it down. I had 2 wires criss-crossed, basically running on 2 cylinders minus the drag events created by way out of whack firing events on the other 2 cylinders. What an idiot. Swapped the two leads and voila! So now I know to always tape shit with the correct connection info on it. I'm surprised I didn't blow the thing up. Anyway off I went getting 40mpg on the highway. Remember 4 speed manuals? That car got an honest to god 40mpg at 70mph. Guess it was just the lightness of the car I dunno. Seems like car manufacturers are still struggling to get 40mpg on most models. Of course I didn't have airbags on that car but back then we all just drove safer ( no cell phones, etc.). Progress ? I did have the robotic shoulder belts ( with the manual lap belts ). No wonder Detroit has almost gone bankrupt several times.
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Yes I will help you tune your K04/pump gas car; I have much less experience than the major players but I also charge you $0 and can turn you around quickly. 4 satisfied customers and counting...
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 Old 03-29-2012, 10:42 AM   #17
 
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Ha yeah, I was raised to be always paranoid about switching spark plug leads. Not only do I always mark each lead with marker, tape, etc, but when the paranoia is really bad I always make an effort to only ever remove one lead at a time.
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 Old 03-29-2012, 10:48 AM   #18
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I did this to myself once upon a time. Glad you got it figured out.
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