MS3 Tow Hitch

[cesaros]

Just installed a Hidden Hitch from etrailer.com.

Hidden Hitch Trailer Hitch for Mazda 3 2010 - 60259

install takes about 30min. I did mine without raising the car....used jacks to raise the entire towing assembly into place.

I'm picking up a motorcycle from Maryland this weekend, and putting a hitch/uhaul on my car was the cheapest option to get it back down to NC...but I am surprised how little you notice the hitch, I'll probably keep it bolted up.

I also purchased a black cap for the hitch, and a 2in ball.

[zmarko]

I plan on getting one one day. Guess I should open up the Owners manual PDF to see what the tow rating is on these cars. Hitch is looking good. Any tricks to the install? I installed one on my '01 Outback, and it was a pain in the ass to do myself....just because of the weight and the way the bolts/nuts needed to be attached.

[cesaros]

technically the tow rating for the MS3 is zero...but its not uncommon for people to tow upto 1000lbs (weight including trailer).

the only trick is to use the snake wire they provide...and if you don't have a lift, use 2 jacks to raise the tow bar into place.

I also used chewing gum to hold the washers on while I got the nut onto the bolt threads.

I'm pretty happy with the product...for $150, its great quality.

[Darth_Nuruodo]

Glad to hear the install was easy. I've been tossing around the idea of putting one on for my teeny tiny aluminum boat. When I worked at Uhaul I saw and worked on some ridiculously difficult hitch installs, that went on for hours and hours, glad to see this will not be one of those.

And yes, the owner's manual expressly forbids towing with the Mazdaspeed 3, but then again fuck a warranty.

[cesaros]

ya, its only 4 bolts, very simple...I'd say its easier than putting on an intake.

[adlpb]

I have a Curt one for sale if anyone is interested...FS thread on gen2 section. PM me for details

[Nliiitend1]

I have the Curt Class 1 hitch (and plug & play wiring harness) on my GenWon.

I installed it before I moved back to Chicago from Florida for a similar reason to the OP's...it was the most economical way to move my motorcycle.

I also picked up a 2-bicycle platform-style folding bike rack that makes good use of the hitch as well.

[beckula]

I've had the same hitch for a while and have to agree thats it crazy easy to install. Took me a 30-45 minutes by myself to install. Its held up great too. I debating whether or not I should remove it before I trade or sell the car.

[breakfstincluded]

can you please buy one of these so I can see how much I want to pretend I have an F1 car?

LED hitch cover

Trailer Hitch Cover with 12 LED Brake Light

or

http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Covers...FQIbQgodGRkAnQ

:3





:3

I was thinking about hidden hitch for gen 1, so I can carry bikes and not look like a hellaflush fag poser that just leaves them on their roof.

But for gen 1 i believe you have to drill holes.

[Nliiitend1]

I don't remember having to drill any holes, but it's been a couple of years...

[breakfstincluded]

I'd love to not have to drill down there...

But the hidden hitch page seems to indicate so.

http://www.hiddenhitch.com/content/h...453&part=60201

[ABSpeed3]

The drilling is not bad at all. Just gotta drill four holes to 1/2" and fish the bolts through. I did it with a buddy and it took us about 45 minutes.

I did some research and the Mazda 3 MPS is rated for 2000lbs over in England. I have towed this puppy on the highway and back and fourth around town without a hitch. (heh)


EDIT: Towing capacity is around 1200lbs unbraked and over 2k if it's braked.

[crankshaft]

I like!
That may be my solution to hauling our bicycles to the beach.

Just out of curiosity, how much is the roof rack for your bike?
How does it install?
Mess up paint?

[Nliiitend1]

Ah yes, now I remember...

You don't have to really drill any holes though, as ABSpeed3 said. You just have to make some existing holes slightly bigger.

[cesaros]

Originally Posted by crankshaft I like! That may be my solution to hauling our bicycles to the beach. Just out of curiosity, how much is the roof rack for your bike? How does it install? Mess up paint?

my roof rack was about $400 new (including the bike rack, and cowling accessory). Yakima, purchased from RackAttack.com

the Landing Pads attach to pre drilled (from factory) holes in the rails on your roof...there are little rectangular covers over the holes on the Gen2.

It takes 1 bolt per landing pad, and the rack will lock into those.

Takes about an hour to assemble everything.

My paint isn't damaged from it either...I put a protective wax on before putting the rack on my car...and the pads have a soft rubber that wont slip around.

[YoursTruly]

I put a harbor freight bike rack in my reese hitch and I have not had any problems. I am leaving either a hitch ball or the rack in full time to protect my bumper. College campuses eat cars.

Plus, I love the look on people's faces when they can't keep up with a hatchback sporting a bike rack when hitting the local back roads in their mustang.

[POE]

I know I'm digging up an old thread. But I just want to confirm what hitch I should order for my 2007 MS3.

I should order the regular hitch for a Mazda 3 hatchback, right? I called a couple manufacturers and they said it won't work, but they're just looking at the product info on their computers.

[Nliiitend1]

Yup.

[kpkaw1978]

I just ordered the Draw Tite for my 2008 MS3, I'll be towing a trailer from New Hampshire back to Pennsylvania next month. Is there an existing plug that I can tap into for the lights or is it all splicing work? If so, which side of the car has the most accessible wires to tap into? I helped wire up my buddies WRX last week and it wasn't too difficult, hopefully the Mazda will be the same.

[POE]

I have a 2007 MS3. This is what I bought: Tow Ready ModuLite Protector - 119180

Connecting the wires of the harness to the car wires wasn't hard. But since I have LED brake lights that don't carry enough power to control the trailer lights, I had to run a wire from the module up to the battery in the front of the car to power the trailer lights. That's what took most of the time. I installed the module in the rear driver side in the car jack compartment. It works great because the long harness can be easily stored in the jack compartment when not in use. I got more familiar with my car because I removed everything on the floor as well as the side panels, it's not hard at all). I ran the wire over the the passenger side of the car and then under the kick plates of the doors. It's really easy to tuck the wire under it. Then I removed my glove box (really easy, vids on youtube to show how) and poked a small hole in the firewall plug/grommet/boot where all the other wiring goes into the engine compartment. I fed the wire up along/behind the engine heat shield and behind the master cylinder and then to the battery.

I tested the lights on my small trailer and it works great. I bought the trailer hitch for my bicycle rack, but in case my truck is unavailable, I can at least use my small motorcycle trailer to get my moto to the race track. It was a fun little project that took a few hours, but was worth it to know I can use a trailer if needed. The total combined weight of trailer and motorcycle would be 7-800lbs. I'm not too concerned about overloading the car.

Sorry, no pics. It was at night and I was working by flashlight. I would recommend working by daylight or a well lit garage. I wrapped athletic tape around the butt of my flash light so I could hold it in my teeth. I drooled all over the place...

[kpkaw1978]

Originally Posted by POE I have a 2007 MS3. This is what I bought: Tow Ready ModuLite Protector - 119180 Connecting the wires of the harness to the car wires wasn't hard. But since I have LED brake lights that don't carry enough power to control the trailer lights, I had to run a wire from the module up to the battery in the front of the car to power the trailer lights. That's what took most of the time. I installed the module in the rear driver side in the car jack compartment. It works great because the long harness can be easily stored in the jack compartment when not in use. I got more familiar with my car because I removed everything on the floor as well as the side panels, it's not hard at all). I ran the wire over the the passenger side of the car and then under the kick plates of the doors. It's really easy to tuck the wire under it. Then I removed my glove box (really easy, vids on youtube to show how) and poked a small hole in the firewall plug/grommet/boot where all the other wiring goes into the engine compartment. I fed the wire up along/behind the engine heat shield and behind the master cylinder and then to the battery. I tested the lights on my small trailer and it works great. I bought the trailer hitch for my bicycle rack, but in case my truck is unavailable, I can at least use my small motorcycle trailer to get my moto to the race track. It was a fun little project that took a few hours, but was worth it to know I can use a trailer if needed. The total combined weight of trailer and motorcycle would be 7-800lbs. I'm not too concerned about overloading the car. Sorry, no pics. It was at night and I was working by flashlight. I would recommend working by daylight or a well lit garage. I wrapped athletic tape around the butt of my flash light so I could hold it in my teeth. I drooled all over the place...

The trailer I have already has LED tails, would I still need to supply power?

[POE]

Hmmm, that's a good question. You would have to figure out how much max draw the LED trailer lights take and compare that with how much max output the stock wiring can provide along with how much draw the car lights have.

Or you could play it safe and install the wiring module and not worry about it.

[kpkaw1978]

Originally Posted by POE Hmmm, that's a good question. You would have to figure out how much max draw the LED trailer lights take and compare that with how much max output the stock wiring can provide along with how much draw the car lights have. Or you could play it safe and install the wiring module and not worry about it.

Duly noted, thanks for the help!

[ABSpeed3]

I just ordered this and it worked great

Amazon.com: CURT Manufacturing 56011 T-Connector: Automotive

Amazon.com: CURT Manufacturing 56011 T-Connector: Automotive
Amazon.com: CURT Manufacturing 56011 T-Connector: Automotive

[POE]

Originally Posted by ABSpeed3 I just ordered this and it worked great Amazon.com: CURT Manufacturing 56011 T-Connector: Automotive

But that's for a second gen MS3, right? First gens don't have plugs that fit that 'T' connector.

[ABSpeed3]

Yes they do. On my 2008.5 GT it plugged right up without a hitch. (heh)

[POE]

Well, maybe I'm blind and did it the slightly less easy way. But, whatever you do, make sure you get the right module based on whether you have LED lights or regular.

[Tommy]

Since this one has surfaced again...

Anyone towing an ATV? I got a Grizzly 700 and it weighs 600lbs. I need a trailer for it and wanted to know what to get that isn't too heavy bit can still carry this thing.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Tommy Since this one has surfaced again... Anyone towing an ATV? I got a Grizzly 700 and it weighs 600lbs. I need a trailer for it and wanted to know what to get that isn't too heavy bit can still carry this thing.

I pulled a 700lb jet ski with a ~150lb trailer with no problem. You wanna keep it under 1000lb and take it easy on the clutch

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by ABSpeed3 I just ordered this and it worked great Amazon.com: CURT Manufacturing 56011 T-Connector: Automotive

Me too.

[Stryff]

Originally Posted by adlpb I pulled a 700lb jet ski with a ~150lb trailer with no problem. You wanna keep it under 1000lb and take it easy on the clutch

Same, I pull a 3-seater all the time, even did a 5 hour trip with it. Doesn't feel like much back there, but brakes are a little less responsive obviously. Also I'm more alert for hills, ready to downshift. Don't wanna be boosting in 6th gear uphill with a jetski