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![]() | | #161 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just took this photo a minute ago of the box next to my desk. 20160527_174038.jpg I'm not disputing any of your findings on this subject, just saying PennzPlat is dexos1 and I swear it has been for a while. I'm going to shut up now and let you good folks science me, as usual.
__________________ 2010 CBM Mazdaspeed3 Freektune 93 CorkSport SRI, TIP & Race Pipe CP-E Stage 2 RMM & TMIC Cobb Accessport V3 Autotech HPFP Internals Pilot Super Sport 235/40/18 - Stock Pu Pilot Alpin PA3 215/50/17 - Sport Edition CE 2016.5 MGM Mazda CX-5 Touring |
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__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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__________________ Corksport stage 2 sri/tip, Autotech Internals, RSB, CBE, Forge bpv, Koni FSD, Mazda Sport Springs, ITV22, JBR PMM, JBR TMM, JBR RMM, Damond SSP JBR SSB, CX piping with TR6, DM OCC Dizzy Tuned " I just don't need a stage 6, 16 puck, teflon diamond plated clutch that can snap a femur downshifting." -Raider | |
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![]() | | #164 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Test it and let us know how it goes. No, really. Do it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score that is def new...at least as of 6 months ago. give it a try. RP is spensive.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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![]() | | #166 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Might be giving this a try. I've been running pennzoil platnium for about 2 years now. My internals are coming in this week I hope and will be doing the sl1 treatment with this oils so hopefully works out for me. |
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![]() | | #167 | ![]() |
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I just like to read posts and try to help out when I can.
__________________ Corksport stage 2 sri/tip, Autotech Internals, RSB, CBE, Forge bpv, Koni FSD, Mazda Sport Springs, ITV22, JBR PMM, JBR TMM, JBR RMM, Damond SSP JBR SSB, CX piping with TR6, DM OCC Dizzy Tuned " I just don't need a stage 6, 16 puck, teflon diamond plated clutch that can snap a femur downshifting." -Raider | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am probably never going to go full E85, but wonder if at least using the Redline treatment on the spill valve would be good for a car running a 30% mix? I have never ran it yet, getting ready to try it out soon, and I already run a Dexos 1 oil.
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score not needed. on a 4/8 gallon mix, E35, no oil or Si-1 additions are needed. I believe problems with the CDFP tend to arise approaching a 50% concentration of E. I am running a E40ish, 5/7 mix, without issue and have been for over a year, but want to go to 50% so switched to RP. Going to try and not use Si-1 at all. So bottom line you don't need to do a thing with oil and if you want piece of mind you can throw some Si-1 into the spill valve but likely not necessary to maintain pressure.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That is what I figured, but I thought it a good idea to ask. Thanks.
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can I run my standard tune with a e50 mix in the tank |
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__________________ OLD: GT3071 IWG | Autotech HPFP | Cobb AP | tune | Catted DP |HDi FMIC | CPE 4" TIP + 3.25" MAF | Grimmspeed EBCS | RX8 S2 Rims | JBR 80a Trilogy | Forge V2 BPVNEW: HTP full 3" | catted DP | Autotech HPFP | COBB AP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes, you can actually. Just let us know how long it takes for your car to fuck up afterwards. Because it will happen doing something stupid like that.
__________________ All good things must come to an end... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Issues with the hardware fix came up, bumping this for any new searchers. Just shy of 30k miles and 2.5 years and no sticking issues, and not a single cold start issue since moving to VA. It's not E-85 supply specific as I have used 6-7 different stations in 3 different states. Car has seen <1k of 93 spread out over that time when E85 pumps have been down and I was lazy during that week and on the gas light. Redline S1 cleans existing black death, RP Dexxos spec prevents further death. We win.
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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![]() | | #175 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Raising the dead here... I ran e30 from 2012 until around a year ago, took around 4 years/40k miles with Rotella t6 for black death to build up and cause a loss of pressure. I switched to RP dexos1, cleaned and lubed the pump and spill valve with redline and stayed on e30 for 2 oil more changes with RP. Both oil changes I did the redline cleaning just to be overkill about it, and had my RV get stuck open. So I replaced the RV, cleaned the pump again and switched to e85. This semester I had to drive 80 miles a day going to class and back home 4 days a week so my car got plenty of miles on it and went through a lot of tanks of e85 and now my RV problem is back(I think, problems detailed below). My idle FP bounces from 70~90 psi and the car is a bitch to get started, but I'll get it to idle after like 30 minutes of cranking and watching it rev up to cold idle(~2200 rpm) and dying immediately. Also when it does hold idle the rpms drop when I blip the throttle. I've tried injecting redline through the spill valve and took the pump back off, disassembled it, soaked all parts in redline again(there was no build up at all on them when removed), and verified I reassembled it right by following the rallysportdirect instructions and the OP and torqued the internals down with a torque wrench. I can't decide if my problem is the ITFP or RV but I'm suspecting the RV, so any ideas of what to check or what tests I can do would be awesome. I'm also wondering if anything could be helped by soaking the RV in redline and cleaning it cuz I'm trying to save money to get an awd subframe for my civic I picked up a few weeks ago(couldn't say no to a $100 Honda that runs and drives but I can't go back to fwd after having awd this long lol) plus I gotta pay tuition soon so I can't just buy a pump and RV right now but with my luck I need both. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________ 06 Speed6 @85k Mods: 3" TBE, JBR Tru-3.0, Autotech Internals, CX FMIC, Turbosmart Hybrid, RMM, TurbineTech Diff Mounts, H&R Springs, AP tuned on e30 |
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![]() | | #176 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score That sounds like a stuck RV if not a combo of things. Doesn't seem like the ITFP because you would not get any fuel up to the HPFP if it was dead. Try slowly increasing throttle and then giving it a quick blip. Watch FP to see if it slowly builds as you lightly increase throttle and then plummets when you jab the throttle. This is what mine did back in the day when my RV died. If you bought a used RV there is a good chance it was already shot.
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________ 06 Speed6 @85k Mods: 3" TBE, JBR Tru-3.0, Autotech Internals, CX FMIC, Turbosmart Hybrid, RMM, TurbineTech Diff Mounts, H&R Springs, AP tuned on e30 | |
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