HOW TO: Remove & Disassemble HPFP Spill Valve

[phate]

It seems to me the spring under the check valve (button) isn't there to aid in pushing the valve up when the solenoid is energized. That spring is very, very weak. The fuel flowing against the bottom of the cup is probably a bigger factor in moving the valve. If that's the case, we probably don't want to make either the upper spring weaker, or the lower spring stronger, in the case that the fuel pressure slams the valve closed all the time. I'm just a little weary of upsetting that balance and potentially causing erratic operation (again, assuming fuel movement actually closes the valve). I know we can generate >2,000psi at idle when the spill valve is jumpered, so causing an overrun could make for a bad day. @Enki; did testing with the stronger lower spring and didnt have much luck.

What I have seen when the solenoid sticks is the plunger itself sticking, not allowing the check valve to seal against the collar. It has been very slight buildup between the collar and plunger that prevents this movement.

Another way to potentially alleviate the issue is to open up the clearance between those two pieces. Or, as you mentioned, having those pieces coated to prevent buildup.

[Enki]

Originally Posted by phate It seems to me the spring under the check valve (button) isn't there to aid in pushing the valve up when the solenoid is energized. That spring is very, very weak. The fuel flowing against the bottom of the cup is probably a bigger factor in moving the valve. If that's the case, we probably don't want to make either the upper spring weaker, or the lower spring stronger, in the case that the fuel pressure slams the valve closed all the time. I'm just a little weary of upsetting that balance and potentially causing erratic operation (again, assuming fuel movement actually closes the valve). I know we can generate >2,000psi at idle when the spill valve is jumpered, so causing an overrun could make for a bad day. @Enki; did testing with the stronger lower spring and didnt have much luck. What I have seen when the solenoid sticks is the plunger itself sticking, not allowing the check valve to seal against the collar. It has been very slight buildup between the collar and plunger that prevents this movement. Another way to potentially alleviate the issue is to open up the clearance between those two pieces. Or, as you mentioned, having those pieces coated to prevent buildup.

It's nice you bring that up @phate;, since I still have that stronger lower spring in my pump (about a year now?) with no issues or changes to pump operation.

As for a coating, I think we'd have to have a Teflon coating on the sides of one or the other for that to work, or at least a Teflon spacer type thing which can fit in between both.

Perhaps one of the membership which has access to random shit like that can chime in with something that may work...? If needed, I can pull apart my spare pump and mic the parts in question.

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by phate Another way to potentially alleviate the issue is to open up the clearance between those two pieces. Or, as you mentioned, having those pieces coated to prevent buildup.

This was exactly what jumped into my brain while reading your post.

I need to get my hands dirty and take apart a pump finally.

[Enki]

Why? I can take my spare apart and get photos of everything up close and personal...If requested, of course.

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by Enki Why? I can take my spare apart and get photos of everything up close and personal...If requested, of course.

Haha, then i kindly request good sir.


It would be best to open the clearance up on the plunger wall, and not the plunger itself, so as to not perturb the solenoid to plunger coupling.

I'd love to see some more pictures, it's all i really have to go off with. I've only taken apart one spill valve in my life, and i've forgotten everything by now lol.

[Enki]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Haha, then i kindly request good sir. It would be best to open the clearance up on the plunger wall, and not the plunger itself, so as to not perturb the solenoid to plunger coupling. I'd love to see some more pictures, it's all i really have to go off with. I've only taken apart one spill valve in my life, and i've forgotten everything by now lol.

I'll do a full on breakdown of the spill valve today during my lunch break and photograph every single step in doing so.

[djuosnteisn]

Take note of potential areas that could be modifying to free up some clearance, or surfaces that could be easily coated.

[silvapain]

I also have a spare HPFP and can tweak the internals of the spill valve for testing.


Tapadatass

[Enki]

So, couldn't find my spare pump, and I remember why now. Sent it to @EdgeAutosport.com; for the little y piece; I'll pull the pump off my car tomorrow during lunch and photograph/clean it.

[phate]

I have a bunch of pictures of the broken down spill valve in my E85 thread. Page 2 or 3. On my phone right now or I would quote it.

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by Enki So, couldn't find my spare pump, and I remember why now. Sent it to @EdgeAutosport.com; for the little y piece; I'll pull the pump off my car tomorrow during lunch and photograph/clean it.

Yeah, might not be worth the trouble. Clint has a ton of pics, i just didn't want to dig through 23420984097854238 pages to find them, lol.

Originally Posted by phate I have a bunch of pictures of the broken down spill valve in my E85 thread. Page 2 or 3. On my phone right now or I would quote it.

Do you think any of them would have views on the area of interest? I have a spare pump too, i might take it apart tonight so i can have something to hold in my hands while we discuss this (besides my penis that is).

[phate]

#1

Originally Posted by phate My rejoicing was a bit premature, I suppose. The spill valve started doing the EXACT same thing, with almost the same mileage, on the same road as the last one. That ended my endeavor a bit early, so I pulled the spill valve out of my original pump (the first one that failed). This thing is fucking NASTY. The parts are sticky, everything was sticking together when I pull it apart. Spill valve housing: After cleaning it up, it looks amazing: Solenoid: Moving pieces: The center "button" has a tiny spring under it that presses against the solenoid. It would barely move when I pulled it out: After cleaning, with the button and spring removed: It looks like the solenoid comes apart, but I'm not willing to venture that far, just yet. I'm letting this dry out overnight, since I don't have an air compressor at my apartment. I'll re-clean the small parts tomorrow night, then reinstall. ____________________ Of course I am. I see no signs of actual metal-to-metal wear on any of the parts. They are beautiful, once cleaned up. What I am going to do, though, is get an inline filter. It's pretty obvious that the in-tank sock filter isn't doing a damn thing.

#2

Originally Posted by phate OK, guys. So you can see from the video above (here if you didn't) that I went ahead and plugged my extra spill valve solenoid into the harness, apart from the pump. At first, it didn't want to do anything, it wouldn't operate unless I pushed on the plunger (that is the center pin on the solenoid). After doing that for a bit, it started to work a bit better and I gave the solenoid some love taps with the plastic end of a screwdriver (because it was the closest tool that wouldn't damage the metal). After a few minutes of this, it started working regularly - meaning it wouldn't skip cycles. About two seconds after that, the whole thing pretty much fell apart in my hands. I thought I broke it, but it turns out it is just a pressed together unit I didn't understand how the spill valve worked before now, so I'm going to attempt to explain it for everyone else like me. If it's old news, skip past! First, the operation of the solenoid was the opposite of what I expected. The plunger is normally "out", depressing the spill valve - which relieves pressure. When power is applied (polarity didn't matter), the center pin retracts into the solenoid. The "normal" position (no power) is on the left, applied voltage position on the right: Again, the "normal" position (no power) is on the left, applied voltage position on the right: So the round piece on the very bottom of the solenoid - we'll call it the 'collar' - is just pressed into the solenoid frame with a pretty tight fit. It looks to serve three purposes: 1) to guide the plunger, which is what controls the actual spill valve, and 2) to secure the opposing round metal piece - the "valve body", and 3) to allow fuel to flow through it when the valve is released, diverting fuel, and thus decreasing pressure. This is the collar which mates to the round valve body. The two faces, shown in the next two pictures, are the faces that press against each other. You can see wear pattern on the collar from the valve body's outer ring: The round valve body does not move. Only the center “button” (which is actually the valve) moves. The valve body seals against the bottom of the spill valve port (next picture, below) - flat side down, cup side up. The outer edge of the cup side of the valve body seals against the solenoid’s collar. This only leaves two paths for the fuel to leave: 1) out the pump side’s high pressure line that goes to the fuel rail (which is the larger hole you see when you take the typical pump internals out), or 2) through the valve body, and then through the collar’s 90° opposing holes, which is then rerouted back to the pumping side of the CDFP. How this routing actually occurs is where the "button" comes into play. We can see that the fuel must flow through the center of the collar in order to flow through the 90° opposing holes. You can see the wear pattern on the inside edge of the collar's face where the button rides, and thus is closing the path when the solenoid's plunger retracts. The movement of the button occurs because, when the plunger retracts, we have a great deal of fuel flowing against the bottom of the button. Once the button is touching the collar's face, the pump generates a ton of pressure because it only has one route to go - through the high pressure feed line into the fuel rail. ____________________ Now that we have that out of the way, we can look at the details of the spill valve solenoid. The solenoid is pretty simple. Only five pieces, including the solenoid frame. Sorry for the lighting in this pic, but there are better pictures to follow: From left to right we have: 1) solenoid frame, 2) plunger return spring, 3) plunger c-clip guide, 4) plunger, 5) collar. [PS - if someone knows the real names of these pieces, I'll be glad to edit this entire post.] Close up of the solenoid frame. The center post is stationary - it holds the plunger return spring and plunger in place: Here's the plunger return spring, it's nothing crazy. Second picture is how it sits in the solenoid frame on that center post. Here's the plunger's c-clip guide and how it fits into the solenoid frame. This piece fits very nicely into its bore, there is essentially no rocking or binding: Which brings us to the heart of any solenoid, the plunger: The plunger sits on the spring, and is held by the c-clip guide (obviously not as loosely as shown here when installed into the solenoid frame): This is the plunger in the solenoid frame, held by the c-clip guide: And the collar was shown way up in the beginning of this post, so this is how all of the pieces fit together: ____________________ Which brings us to the issues I was having. These five pieces fit together pretty snugly in order to keep the plunger from flopping around. I found two places which were binding when I initially inspected it 1) The c-clip guide did not move smoothly in its bore. This was just a matter of a very light, sticky residue. The solenoid internals were not nasty like some of the parts were in previous posts, but the unit is not sealed. These parts are susceptible to the same contaminants. Once the solenoid frame and c-clip were cleaned, it was a smooth operation. 2) Where the plunger goes through the collar. The center bore in the collar actually was visibly dirty. It is a very tight fit between these two components. I blasted all of the components with brake parts cleaner and gave the collar a quick scrub. Threw it back in and, like I hoped, had fuel pressure ____________________ I will now, unquestionably, get an in-line fuel filter installed. Whether or not the ethanol is dissolving deposits from the previous 50k miles' dirt from 93 octane, I am getting one. Fuel can be nasty, no matter what brand/type/station. I've been looking around for filters, and I may order one tomorrow after I do a quick inspection tonight of where it can or cannot fit. I am fairly convinced that a large part of this is just residual grime from the last few years. Until I see differently, I'm sticking with E85

#3 (not so important)

Originally Posted by phate As promised, this is the spill valve solenoid taken even further apart. This pic shows the normal position of the solenoid in the background. The foreground picture shows how it pushes out just a little bit. That little groove in the foreground solenoid is where the split ring lock sits. The split ring lock simply keeps the solenoid from pushing back through the sleeve. You can sorta see how the two halves should sit in that groove here: Once the two lock halves are out, you just push the solenoid back through the sleeve (towards the connector end): And that's about it. This is the sleeve. You can see where the O-ring on the solenoid sits: Nothing spectacular, but I thought the overall design of the spill valve and solenoid is pretty neat. ____________________ For the cold weather questions: Even when the car has sufficient fuel pressure when cranking, a totally cold engine (left overnight) is hesitant to start on the first crank. The second crank seems to be sufficient to start the car and get it into the fast idle range. After that, everything seems fine.

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by silvapain I pull my spill valve often as it sticks due to E85. Mine never has any signs of buildup or debris. Tapadatass

If it never has build-up or debris, how do you know you've done what's necessary to get it to stop sticking?

I mean, at least if it's gummed up, you have some sense of the cause when you remove all the crud, re-connect it and it works. It's simple cause and effect. Crud = sticking. Remove crud = no more sticking.

So what is it that you do that causes it to unstick if there's nothing to clean out? Maybe I'm over-thinking this, but it seems confusing.

(I'm asking this question because I've been running E40 for the last couple of months and my pump just started sticking for the first time. I just want to know exactly what to do to remedy the situation. I'm thinking a once-per-month spill valve cleaning will work, and that I won't have to R&R internals too... at least, I'm hoping...)

[Enki]

The "sticky death" as it's commonly referred to is actually a super thin film that deposits itself upon the whole inside of the pump. The film is akin to that of what you would find on a post it note, though slightly brown if you ignore it long enough. Lots of things clean it off really quick, such as filling up with a tank of pump gas (in this case the pump generally starts functioning properly as you are leaving the station).

So, Silva is correct in saying there isn't any crud or build up (hell, you'd be hard pressed to even see the film when it's just bad enough to cause issues.

[silvapain]

^This. Even when it's stuck, there's just a very thin film. All it takes is a Q-tip and some pump gas to clean it right up.

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by Enki The "sticky death" as it's commonly referred to is actually a super thin film that deposits itself upon the whole inside of the pump. The film is akin to that of what you would find on a post it note, though slightly brown if you ignore it long enough. Lots of things clean it off really quick, such as filling up with a tank of pump gas (in this case the pump generally starts functioning properly as you are leaving the station). So, Silva is correct in saying there isn't any crud or build up (hell, you'd be hard pressed to even see the film when it's just bad enough to cause issues.

Hmmm.... So could I just run until I'm on fumes and fill up with 93 to fix this instead of pulling and cleaning the spill valve?

I remember seeing elsewhere NOT to go to pump gas after running ethanol, but that was about running straight E85 IIRC...

[Enki]

This car is a completely different animal, and as such, has its own set of rules regarding corn juice.

[silvapain]

I have switched between 100% E85, E50, and 93 pump gas several times with no problem.


Tapadatass

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by Enki This car is a completely different animal, and as such, has its own set of rules regarding corn juice.

...?

You lost me, @Enki. Is that a "yes," that I should try running a tank of straight 93 to unstick my spill valve first?

You know, I think I'll just try disassembling and cleaning it first. Then, maybe 93 and a full pump disassembly/cleaning if it's still stuck.

This is completely foreign ground for me, so I'm trying to get some clear-cut, specific direction. And a lot of the dialogue is about E85 and I only run E40. So, it's harder for me to know exactly how best to approach this...

[Enki]

My prior post was meant to state that "common knowledge" of E85 largely doesn't apply. What works/doesn't work for one car may not be 1:1 for the DISI-MZR (and probably isn't).

Edit: The spill valve is accessible with no more than the TMIC shroud removed. You can clean that without having to take anything else off; it would probably be cheaper/easier to do as such.

As a side note, not many people have reported issues with 50/50 and lower mixes of E85, so I'm wondering what is different with your car....?

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by Enki My prior post was meant to state that "common knowledge" of E85 largely doesn't apply. What works/doesn't work for one car may not be 1:1 for the DISI-MZR (and probably isn't). Edit: The spill valve is accessible with no more than the TMIC shroud removed. You can clean that without having to take anything else off; it would probably be cheaper/easier to do as such. As a side note, not many people have reported issues with 50/50 and lower mixes of E85, so I'm wondering what is different with your car....?

Thx for the response, @Enki. Honestly, I'm not sure what's different. I run a 50/50 mix (currently E40 in my area, based on the %E/volume in my region of E85 currently).

When I installed my internals, I did lubricate them with Mobil 1 synthetic that was laying around. Also, I think I'm on "Mazda" synthetic oil--whatever the dealer uses. I got a year's worth of oil changes and they still owe me one, so I'll bring Pennzoil Platinum with me next time.

A while back, I broke the connector of my spill valve solenoid. An MSFer in the area sold me his Spill Valve Solenoid (with the integrated connector on top) really cheap. He said it only had 30k on it. I never disassembled and cleaned it before installing it, though. I broke the original off when doing my internals, and was anxious to just get the car up an running, as it was several days later...

Finally, I didn't get ~60 idle fuel pressure until two really cold starts. The temperature seems to be a catalyst (or coincidence, I guess...) BTW, it's not sticking now, but I'm very gun shy until this weekend when I tear down and clean out the spill valve. I guess it's just intermittently sticking at this point (according to the AP, anyways).

Any of these clues help? Gosh, hopefully it's not the internals themselves! They're virtually brand new, though, and I did a meticulous install.

[Enki]

Honestly, it could be the internals taking a second to break free from their current position due to extra friction. My car (when it ran at all) on full e85 would do this starting in the cold as well.

As for breaking the clip...
HOWTO: Spill Valve SST

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by Redline143 Hmmm.... So could I just run until I'm on fumes and fill up with 93 to fix this instead of pulling and cleaning the spill valve? I remember seeing elsewhere NOT to go to pump gas after running ethanol, but that was about running straight E85 IIRC...

In my experience, if I was running E45-E50 where my spill valve started to stick, I could simply top off my tank with a few gal of 93 to drop below E40 and my spill valve would unstick within ~10-20 miles of driving.

Then I decided to stop running over ~E40ish, and I haven't pulled by spill valve in over a year..

[Redline143]

Hmmmm.... You know, perhaps all of the woes I've been having have been because I've been using E85 with 87 instead of 91 or 93...

I keep seeing posts mentioning cleaning the spill valve with 91... or running some 93 in the tank to clear things out. Maybe the 87 is part of the problem and isn't as effective in preventing sticking?

Just a thought...

I think it was @Bucker who said he mixed 87 with E85. I figured, if it was good enough for him, it was good enough for me.

I'll pull and clean my spill valve Sunday to see what happens. If it's still sticking, I'll switch to straight 93 to see if that helps clean things out. If not, I may do a whole pump teardown and then formulate an E30 mix, switch my FSC and Scalar and see if that prevents future recurrence.

[silvapain]

We all mention 93 because that's the octane rating of the pump gas we use, not because it's better at I sticking the valve than 87. Still, the point of adding Ethanol is increasing octane; you're being counterproductive by mixing it with crap gas.


Tapadatass

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by silvapain We all mention 93 because that's the octane rating of the pump gas we use, not because it's better at I sticking the valve than 87. Still, the point of adding Ethanol is increasing octane; you're being counterproductive by mixing it with crap gas. Tapadatass

But the point of the ethanol in our DISI engines (in terms of octane) is *functional octane*, not actual octane, right? Even though my mix may net about 96 actual octane overall (with the 105-110 actual octane of E85), the functional octane in 2.3 MZR DISI applications is ~160. And isn't this because of the application-specific physics that come into play when ethanol mixes are directly injected into the combustion chamber?

~160 functional octane--in other words, WAY more than is necessary to get to MBT and not have even the slightest fear of pre-detonation based KR. In fact, isn't it so effective that we can go way past MBT and still not get pre-detonation because the functional octane rating of ethanol in our engines is so high?

That's kind of the wild card that makes E85 mixes so awesome in our engines. The downside, of course, is what I'm experiencing right now...

The reason that I run E40 is primarily because of functional octane rating, and secondarily for the cooling effect. The cooling effect increases with the more % ethanol you run--basically, the higher the percentage, the better the effect. But regarding octane, I'm after the functional rating, not the actual. It's the functional rating that matters in how our engines operate. Actual octane rating applies to test tubes/theory/etc. I'm not sure of functional octane per E20, E30, E40, etc., but I've seen numerous times that even E25 or so is way more than enough to be able to reach MBT with ease. I go to E40 to have extra cooling. I stay at E40 (not going higher) to, ironically, avoid the issues I'm now having.

Also, I'm into saving money, especially with the increased fueling necessary with E blends. That's the primary reason I've mixed with 87. I get super high functional octane (WAAAYYYY more than I'd ever need--I have the logs to prove it), and I save some money.

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go In my experience, if I was running E45-E50 where my spill valve started to stick, I could simply top off my tank with a few gal of 93 to drop below E40 and my spill valve would unstick within ~10-20 miles of driving. Then I decided to stop running over ~E40ish, and I haven't pulled by spill valve in over a year..

What kind of oil do you run? Penn Platinum?

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by Redline143 What kind of oil do you run? Penn Platinum?

I have been running Walmart SuperTech 5w-30 synthetic since the first oil change.

However, I am planning on trying out Rotella T6 for my next oil change.

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go I have been running Walmart SuperTech 5w-30 synthetic since the first oil change. However, I am planning on trying out Rotella T6 for my next oil change.

Now you wouldn't be trying to play a prank on me, would you? Yeah right!

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by Redline143 Now you wouldn't be trying to play a prank on me, would you? Yeah right!

Actually, I was simply being factual...

I am considering going to something more viscous on the next change since I am now making fairly high power and wanted a little more wear protection...

The T6 is 5w-40, which is approximately 50% higher viscosity at operating temp.

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go Actually, I was simply being factual... I am considering going to something more viscous on the next change since I am now making fairly high power and wanted a little more wear protection... The T6 is 5w-40, which is approximately 50% higher viscosity at operating temp.

No kidding?! Well, I'm just surprised because I haven't heard of people running what I thought is a Wal-Mart brand oil. And T6 supposedly interacts with our fuel systems gumming things up, I thought. I may be confusing my oils.

I've heard nothing but good about Pennzoil Platinum, so I'll probably try that next.

[phate]

There's nothing wrong with SuperTech (or most conventionals, really). It has an API rating of SN, which is the highest available right now. I have used it for a break in oil and for the first couple thousand miles in engines. You just need to be a little more cautious with shutting things down when really hot, and they typically won't run as long of OCI. No big deal considering it's $12 for 5 quarts, lol.

[Redline143]

Originally Posted by phate There's nothing wrong with SuperTech (or most conventionals, really). It has an API rating of SN, which is the highest available right now. I have used it for a break in oil and for the first couple thousand miles in engines. You just need to be a little more cautious with shutting things down when really hot, and they typically won't run as long of OCI. No big deal considering it's $12 for 5 quarts, lol.

Hmmm... Well, I was a little concerned about some of the things I heard about running ethanol with certain kinds of oil. I was also concerned with some of the poor shearing qualities I heard about other oils in our engines. Perhaps I'll broaden my horizons, based on what you've said.

BTW, here's the update. I disassembled my spill valve solenoid. It looked super clean, but I used a high naptha content cleaner (Zippo fluid--thanks, @Enki) and cleaned out the spill valve solenoid. I also filled the fuel pump with Zippo fluid by pouring the fluid into the cavity which is normally occupied by the spill valve. I let it sit about ten minutes, reassembled everything, and voila: problem gone.

As I reflect over what the cause for sticking may have been, I really think it was some sort of reaction with the BG44K fuel system cleaner I used. Normally, it's a miracle in many engine applications, but something about my setup (whether the ethanol, oil choice, etc.) caused some sort of reaction, I think. I just recently used it, and this sticking occurred soon afterwards. Interestingly, when I opened up the spill valve, things were immaculate. But the cleaning process did the trick. Since I'm running E40, I'm hoping this was a one-time-only thing (contingent on not using BG44K anymore). We'll see... Regardless, thanks so much for the help in fixing this, y'all

[turboKart]

I just nicked the seal/o ring in what autotech instructions call the seal holder - the threaded passthrough the new shaft fits ever so tightly in (use enough oil to keep that shit from happening - I can't fathom getting the .0000005(?) tolerance autotech shaft by the seal w/o dorking it if you try doing this dry - it cut it like a blade on mine). This thread talks about getting specs for the seal(s) is there really 2 pieces, or did mine just shear what looked like a very small o ring clean off?)- has anyone ever got a part number to order? It would suck to get ass raped for a new pump (or even the seal holder, if they are available) when I just need that pissing little seal...not to mention I now have a prolonged install and can't go hunting my nemesis audi just yet...

[Manny]

@ABSpeed3; @brandonf; need to do this

[brandonf]

I know it.. i've been talking about it for a year and have been lazy.. doing it this weekend finally!

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by turboKart I just nicked the seal/o ring in what autotech instructions call the seal holder - the threaded passthrough the new shaft fits ever so tightly in (use enough oil to keep that shit from happening - I can't fathom getting the .0000005(?) tolerance autotech shaft by the seal w/o dorking it if you try doing this dry - it cut it like a blade on mine). This thread talks about getting specs for the seal(s) is there really 2 pieces, or did mine just shear what looked like a very small o ring clean off?)- has anyone ever got a part number to order? It would suck to get ass raped for a new pump (or even the seal holder, if they are available) when I just need that pissing little seal...not to mention I now have a prolonged install and can't go hunting my nemesis audi just yet...

You can't order parts for the HPFP from Mazda; they treat the entire pump as one part and replace it instead of servicing it.

I believe you're talking about the small quad ring that sits inside the hat that the pump shaft slides in. I did find a suitable quad ring from McMaster-Carr. The part number and dimensions are on MSF, I not in this thread somewhere. I'd search for it myself, but I'm on my phone and searching via Tapatalk is a bitch.

[Etipp98]

90025k135 is what i have ordered in the past

[turboKart]

90025k135 at McMaster-Carr - got it.

Etipp98, SilvaPain, I can't thank you enough for that...it also looks to be the 'Viton' compound, which will hold up much better to harsh chemicals (and E from what I read?), but unfortunately would still squish like jelly at the hands of an ogre like myself...I'll order a hundred or so of these (min order) - let me know if you want any.

And one more thing, if someone happens to be reading this BEFORE jacking the shaft seal on the HPFP - use enough oil to thoroughly lube the shaft when you slip it in the shaft seal housing - any pecker-owner should know that. My HPFP fail (well - not a fail as much as a punk penalty delay for .03 cent part) is due to not lubing the shaft well enough (small bit on the tip wasn't enough - again, shoulda known that one). I have heard of other threads where oil residue was a concern and 'dry shafting' was performed, but that is for those with much tougher anus's than I.

This forum ROCKS!

[turboKart]

I think another contributing factor to the seal getting nicked was the fact I cleaned (and let the whole thing sit) in the (chlorine free, but rubber growth hormone) cleaner while I ran out and got me a burrito...thinking the swelling quad seals don't help a bit when refitting with a new shaft. Another bit of obvious advice - don't soak the shaft seal cap in cleaner - with the seals still inside...