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__________________ 2013 VRM MS3\ BNR S3v2\ 4GL E85 TUNED\ |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This may not be the right thread for this, but it's the most recent and relevant I've read. Has anyone noticed a degradation period in the FTL? Or is it good one day, gone the next? I've been running 50/50 for around 8k miles. Recently adding Redline Si-1 once or twice a week. Friday I went to fill up with less than a quarter tank on the clock, so i planned a 6/6 fill up. 6gal 93, then at 4.5gal e-85 the pump shut off like it was full. I squeezed another 1.5 gal in. Started the car and the gauge read at one notch above 3/4 full. And bs range readout read short. I drove about 75 miles and the fuel level came down to 3/4 full. I thought maybe it was the e-85 pump. After another 50 miles this morning I went to fill up and add Redline in hopes of cleaning things up. 2gal 93, redline, e-85 pump, different pump same station, stops at 1.25gal. I squeeze it out to 2. Start the car and the fuel gauge has not changed. Range only changed by 10 miles after adding 4gal. I dorve about 5 miles, and the gauge came up to one notch above 3/4 but that's it. I drove about 85 miles, then later 85 miles home. Eventually the fuel gauge came down and seems about where it should be after the miles i've run. So I am thinking/wondering if my fuel level sensor is topping out at whatever percentage one notch above 3/4 is. TL/DR--FTL fail immediately or over time? Any steps to prolong total failure?
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP |
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(Thread Starter) | @WetzMS3; That's exactly how it fails. When I fill up, the gauge is off, then it adjusts as I drive. Right now my light is on, and I have more than a 1/2 tank for sure. It has been like that the last 4 times I started my car, but prior to that it would just bounce around. I just know what my fuel mileage is, and go with that. If I get 22.5 mpg, I drive to 225 and put in 5/5 mix. Its pretty close typically. Within a 1/2 gallon. Obviously, driving habits would impact this though. My display is pretty close to accurate though. Its normally .2 high if anything, which in the grand scheme of things isn't much. So if I start to lose MPG estimation on there, then I normally give myself a little more leniency. So if normally it says 22.8, and now it says 22.6, I assume I drove like an ass and average 21.5 or just 22 mpg.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well then add me to this list. I filled up just now and it topped off just before a full mix, but only reads 3/4 on the gauge still. Year: 2013 Model: MS3 Mileage on E: roughly 8k Mix of E: 50% EDIT: Warrantied: Fuck that. How was experience getting the work covered by the dealer @CWP_MS3? I know what is involved in replacing it. Part of me would like to avoid that, but if this is something I'll be doing regularly, part of me says hack that shit up and make it accessible now.
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP Last edited by WetzMS3; 05-27-2014 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Warranty info. |
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To be honest, with how fast this last one went out on me, I think i'll be neatly cutting a hole after this next one goes out. It would make it a 5 minute fix, instead of a hour plus. So if you're going to continue running E with ZFG about the sender, then you may want to cut it. Hopefully my next one lasts me longer than 2 months. My first one lasted a full year.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CWP_MS3 For This Useful Post: | WetzMS3 (05-26-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just had mine done. Warranty covered it. There's only 17k miles on my car though and I hadn't been in to that dealership before. They didn't even ask me about my mods. Tappin'
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm just going to do it myself. I can't kick the corn habit and it'll be easier down the road. Probably take less time than dealing with the service department.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Finally got it swapped out this morning and all is good. FYI, tascaparts.com is cheaper than onlinemazdaparts.com, but does not drop ship. It looked exactly like images of this I've seen here and in other threads. Side note- Is there a How To for a pu itfp somewhere? I never seemed to find one. I know I've seen a video of @kritz or someone cutting the hole, but never found that again either. I did find out about the collar pu's are blessed with via comments in other threads. If there isn't a pu specific how-to, it could be helpful, or if there is the link should be in here. I took a ton a pics and could write up if needed, just don;t want to duplicate shit.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to kritz For This Useful Post: | CWP_MS3 (09-29-2014) |
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I'm not sure how a coating on a these failed connections would repair conductivity as well as prevent future failure, but I'm not smart. TBH, after cutting the hole and swapping it, I'm not even worried about a fix for this. I had ideas, but once the hole is there, it's so easy and the part is cheap enough, that this failure is barely an inconvenience. I already ordered a spare so next time this goes out its a 20 min fix. Only issue I have is sealing the hole enough to keep fumes out. I'm not sure if it's left over fumes from small spills while pulling the pump housing, or my cover is not sealing enough, but I smell fuel from time to time in the cabin. I'll come up with a better cover or worst case seal that shit with some tin tape or something. Any tips or ideas? PM me where to ship it to, and I'l send it out soon.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you're talking about cutting a hole so you don't have to drop the tank, I think that really only applies to first gen cars (and that would be my video).
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(Thread Starter) | No, it definitely applies to pupus as well. The service hole is not lined up with the pump. Its fucking retarded.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I replaced my replacement sensor last Thursday and I keep forgetting to post up the info. Same failure, same 50/50 mix. I'll check mileage info tonight and post how long it made it, but off the top of my head I think it was 7k or so.
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(Thread Starter) | So this is your 3rd sender?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The 3rd unit is in the tank now. 1-OEM-roughly 8k 2-Replacement- roughly 7k 3-Replacement- Currently in tank.
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(Thread Starter) |
Granted, IIRC, there were even people with smaller mixes having the issue as well. Pupu ftl.
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Plus this one has 400 miles or so on it already so it wouldn't be a very good test. And I'm already tuning for other things and would rather not add another variable to that at the moment.
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(Thread Starter) | I think I may cut my body so I don't have to drop the tank. If I do, I will have a door with hinges welded so it looks clean and is still supportive under the seat.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I cut the body out and just used tiny sheet metal screws to attach a slightly bent piece of sheet metal over the hole. It seems to be holding up just fine. Cutting the body sucks ass, but after its done swapping the sending unit is like a 10 minute job. Just be careful not to strip the screws holding the retaining collar in place.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yep. Primed and painted actually. Forgot about that. another tip, let that paint fully dry before pulling the pump. The first go around I dripped a bit of paint on the fairly new paint and had to clean it up and re-paint because the fuel made it run. Oh, I also sliced open 1/4" hose and ran it around the filed edges after painting just to reduce potential rattling, better insulate, and protect the few wires in there.
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP Last edited by WetzMS3; 09-29-2014 at 03:11 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If mine goes again I'll use methanol injection ain't nobody got time for dat Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk 4
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm still feeling lucky here, since I had well over 10k miles on 50/50 E and almost as many on a 4 gal blend with no level sensor issues Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
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(Thread Starter) |
My first one lasted about a year or so I think. Maybe around 12-15k.
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