Ask the Detailer

[icee753]

Originally Posted by theurgy Number one, swirls happen because of improper washing technique and materials. You HAVE to use the 2 bucket, if not 3 bucket method. You also will need to properly wash, clay, swirl correct using a polisher and product and wax/ seal to lock it in. That is the only way to fix those swirls.

So in the winter do you use the two bucket wash?? I'm having problems with that considering I don't have my own place. What does claying do exactly? And do you a polisher brand to recommend? Thanks for your help

[msantana101]

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[theurgy]

Originally Posted by icee753 So in the winter do you use the two bucket wash?? I'm having problems with that considering I don't have my own place. What does claying do exactly? And do you a polisher brand to recommend? Thanks for your help

In the winter I often go to a coin wash once in a while and just rinse off the major stuff, then I'll 2 bucket wash with Optimum NoRinse.
As for claying, that is something that is quickly answered with a google search but in brief it's a way of safely removing imbedded contaminants from your paint's surface.

As for polishers, that is something that is up to you to do your research. As for brand though I personally use both Porter Cable and Flex brand polishers.

[England15j]

I have a Griots 6" DA and need some new buffing pads what do you recommend. I've been using the Griots Orange for compounds and Red pads for finishing with their staged compounds, sealant and wax. I'm looking for something to really bring out the best in the black paint.

Edit: do you have any recommendations on plastic trim treatments. I have used back to black and griots trim treatment and haven't liked the results.

[Yousuf]

The only thing I can't seem to figure out when detailing is how the hell to remove shoe marks from my doors' lower plastic, I only have maybe 1 or 2 whitish skids from shoes rubbing against them but still idk what to even try

[theurgy]

I use Lake County CCS pads and they should work with most hook and loop DA polishers.

As for black stuff, I like to use the Poorboys Trim Restorer.

Poorboys also makes something called the Black hole glaze which works very well for black cars, I've used it on a black 3 series BMW which is by far the most difficult black paint I've had to work with.

[lilred]

I'll go ahead and bump this, at one time, more active detail thread as the older one got bumped...

[sidekick]

@SpecialK;

I recently had a good portion of my car resprayed, do you have any tips for keeping it nice? I've never really had to care in the past as my cars have always been pre-owned/pre-fucked up. Lol. Also, do you have any tips for clay barring? I've never done it before and I need to do it.

[SpecialK]

Originally Posted by sidekick @SpecialK; I recently had a good portion of my car resprayed, do you have any tips for keeping it nice? I've never really had to care in the past as my cars have always been pre-owned/pre-fucked up. Lol. Also, do you have any tips for clay barring? I've never done it before and I need to do it.

Was the respray just a clear coat or did it include color? To keep it nice looking, clay bar your vehicle 2-4 times a year, polish 2 times a year. Use a clear coat sealant after every clay barring/ polish, and wax as much as you like. Now there are different waxes: hard and soft. Soft wax will come off easily with any sort of rain, automated car wash (you shouldn't be using these anyways), and or puddle splashes. Soft wax is *USUALLY* in a bottle in the form of a liquid. Hard wax is a more durable wax that stands up well to what soft wax doesn't and is usually in the form of a hard paste and takes some skill to apply with out streaks or discoloration.

Now the way I apply the above stated is: wash car -> clay bar -> clear coat sealant -> 2 coats of soft wax -> 1 coat hard wax. This seals the paint up nicely and helps the treatment last through a few good washes or an average of 4-6 months. The way to determine if it is time to do this again is when the paint no longer feels soft/ smooth to the touch after a washing.

Hints on claybar- wash your car first, empty bucket and rinse thoroughly, fill bucket with a decent amount of car soap ( no exact amount, just remember it will act as the lubricant between the bar and your paint) and fill with water. Your looking for it to leave a residue that fairly slippery when rubbed between your fingers. Now takes a soft towel (I use the what's is called finishing towels from advanced auto that come in packs of 5 or 6 for 4 bucks) and let soak in the water. Now open your clay bar and stretch and roll it in your palms, like you used to play with playdo (keeping your hands wet will stop it from sticking to you). Break of a section of the clay bar that will flatten out to be 4 inches round and a quarter inch thick. Now take your finishing rag and ring out enough so when you wipe the section of your car you want to claybar (approx 2x2 or 3x3 foot section) it leaves a thin film and then use the clay bar section you broke of and start in circles. Once finished the section using circles, follow up with long horizontal strokes like your washing your car. You know your done clay barring a section once the clay bar can be pulled along the surface smoothly and with no resistance. If the section your working on goes dry, wipe down with the finishing rag once more. Once your happy with the section hose off. Try to keep the entire vehicle wet until you can dry it, unless you love water spots ;-). Also, after 2 or 3 sections re mix the clay bar with itself and tear off a new section.

CAUTION: if you drop the piece of clay bar or rag your using, NEVER brush it off and reuse it, throw it away. When I am done with a rag I rinse it off, ring it out, and put it into a plastic grocery bag or a reusable grocery bag and these bags stay off the ground.

I hope this answered your question, and please excuse any misspellings or anything of the like, I'm on my phone. If anything doesn't make sense, please bring it to my attention and I'll fix it.

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by SpecialK Was the respray just a clear coat or did it include color? To keep it nice looking, clay bar your vehicle 2-4 times a year, polish 2 times a year. Use a clear coat sealant after every clay barring/ polish, and wax as much as you like. Now there are different waxes: hard and soft. Soft wax will come off easily with any sort of rain, automated car wash (you shouldn't be using these anyways), and or puddle splashes. Soft wax is *USUALLY* in a bottle in the form of a liquid. Hard wax is a more durable wax that stands up well to what soft wax doesn't and is usually in the form of a hard paste and takes some skill to apply with out streaks or discoloration. Now the way I apply the above stated is: wash car -> clay bar -> clear coat sealant -> 2 coats of soft wax -> 1 coat hard wax. This seals the paint up nicely and helps the treatment last through a few good washes or an average of 4-6 months. The way to determine if it is time to do this again is when the paint no longer feels soft/ smooth to the touch after a washing. Hints on claybar- wash your car first, empty bucket and rinse thoroughly, fill bucket with a decent amount of car soap ( no exact amount, just remember it will act as the lubricant between the bar and your paint) and fill with water. Your looking for it to leave a residue that fairly slippery when rubbed between your fingers. Now takes a soft towel (I use the what's is called finishing towels from advanced auto that come in packs of 5 or 6 for 4 bucks) and let soak in the water. Now open your clay bar and stretch and roll it in your palms, like you used to play with playdo (keeping your hands wet will stop it from sticking to you). Break of a section of the clay bar that will flatten out to be 4 inches round and a quarter inch thick. Now take your finishing rag and ring out enough so when you wipe the section of your car you want to claybar (approx 2x2 or 3x3 foot section) it leaves a thin film and then use the clay bar section you broke of and start in circles. Once finished the section using circles, follow up with long horizontal strokes like your washing your car. You know your done clay barring a section once the clay bar can be pulled along the surface smoothly and with no resistance. If the section your working on goes dry, wipe down with the finishing rag once more. Once your happy with the section hose off. Try to keep the entire vehicle wet until you can dry it, unless you love water spots ;-). Also, after 2 or 3 sections re mix the clay bar with itself and tear off a new section. CAUTION: if you drop the piece of clay bar or rag your using, NEVER brush it off and reuse it, throw it away. When I am done with a rag I rinse it off, ring it out, and put it into a plastic grocery bag or a reusable grocery bag and these bags stay off the ground. I hope this answered your question, and please excuse any misspellings or anything of the like, I'm on my phone. If anything doesn't make sense, please bring it to my attention and I'll fix it.

The car was repainted and re-cleared, but not the entire car. Thank you for the info. I guess I need to stop being lazy. Lol.

Are all automated carwashes really as bad as people say? We use one at the dealership I work at and it's convenient to keep the car clean. Obviously dirt, etc. can get stuck to the cloth strips, but is that the main issue?

[SpecialK]

Originally Posted by sidekick The car was repainted and re-cleared, but not the entire car. Thank you for the info. I guess I need to stop being lazy. Lol. Are all automated carwashes really as bad as people say? We use one at the dealership I work at and it's convenient to keep the car clean. Obviously dirt, etc. can get stuck to the cloth strips, but is that the main issue?

Yea man, it's np.

I advise all my customers to avoid the automated car washes like the plauge because I have seen way to many cases of either paint or car damage. Also one you pay, you have agreed to their terms and conditions making them uncountable for any damages that occur to your vehicle while in the car wash.

[jrotaryb]

Originally Posted by sidekick The car was repainted and re-cleared, but not the entire car. Thank you for the info. I guess I need to stop being lazy. Lol. Are all automated carwashes really as bad as people say? We use one at the dealership I work at and it's convenient to keep the car clean. Obviously dirt, etc. can get stuck to the cloth strips, but is that the main issue?

If you are concerned with swirl marks and go infrequently yes, stay away from the automated washes. The dirtier the surface, the moreit can get scratched and swirled at the local car wash. For lighter colored cars this is less of a concern, OR for cars that are regularly cleaned and use the auto-wash on rare occasions.

Remember, most cars are cleaned this way...and unless in bright, direct sun or under the right lights, most modern cars look OK for years and years. Bad scratches and really bad swirls are from repeated accumulated poor washing technique...not a visit here or there to the car wash.

To keep the accumulation low, your best bet is to wash the car at home with proper technique in an environment you control. Remember, it's really 90% technique and maybe 10% product that keeps a car looking good.

Proper washing technique (every 1-2 weeks) with occasional waxing (every 3 months maybe) and a "full detail" maybe 2 times a year with clay and some type of paint cleaner and wax/sealant and your car will be ahead of the curve in terms of the condition of the paint.

Any detailing clay you can buy in a store will be gentle enough if used properly...same with most car wash soaps. Beyond that, try Autogeek or Amazon and buy 2 decent wash mitts, 20 or so decent microfiber towels and a bottle of Klasse all-in-one cleaner-wax. That's a nice little starter package if you're interested in detailing at home.

[Ranyard]

ok, looked thru the thread and only one mention of touch up paints, drcolorchip. any other options that will ensure the best match for VRM paint?

[SpecialK]

Originally Posted by Ranyard ok, looked thru the thread and only one mention of touch up paints, drcolorchip. any other options that will ensure the best match for VRM paint?

No that i would recommend, i have some high-end customers that use Dr.Colorchip on their Bentleys and Ferraris and love it,

[andrewz17]

Originally Posted by attomica Anyone ever use Optimum No Rinse? I love that stuff. It only takes an hour to wash the whole car, including wheels; only uses a few gallons of water; can wash in the garage regardless of outside temps.

Was just curious if anybody else had any input on this stuff? I recently heard about it from some friends and have been thinking about getting some to try...

Amazon.com: Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.: Automotive

Amazon.com: Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.: Automotive
Amazon.com: Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.: Automotive

[Ranyard]

Just started using Chemical Guys products. I must say so far very nice stuff.

[jrotaryb]

Originally Posted by andrewz17 Was just curious if anybody else had any input on this stuff? I recently heard about it from some friends and have been thinking about getting some to try... Amazon.com: Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.: Automotive

It works really well if you follow the right process.

My method:
Use the 2 bucket method with a grit guard and mix up a wash bucket with the ONR solution, then make a rinse bucket. Also, be sure to have a nice spray bottle handy and mix up a bottle at a ratio of 1:16 with water...you'll use this to pre-soak the car.

Have a few wash mitts ready to go. Some people prefer to use microfiber towels, others use large sponges. Get the wash mitt saturated and go over an area (1 panel at a time) with virtually no pressure. Then use your rinse/grit guard and re-dip in the ONR solution and wash the area again in a more normal fashion.

Wipe the panel dry immediately. Continue around the car and replace the wash mitt if it's accumulating lots of build up.

Once the paint is done, use the spray bottle to saturate one wheel at a time. Wash the wheels with a wheel brush first for the big stuff then an older microfiber and use the liquid in your buckets as a rinse for the microfiber.

Once complete, you may have used up 2-4 wash mitts and a few microfiber towels plus a large microfiber for drying. I use an old bucket to toss the soiled, wet towels into then toss them in the wash immediately.

I don't use ONR as a replacement for car washing because sometimes it's just too dirty to risk marring the paint, but for weekly maintenance on a car with light build up it works nice, uses much less water and is pretty fast.

[smoogs12]

I use onr as clay lube. You can't beat the price. I can make 10-16 gallons with one 32oz bottle.

[mazdafreak]

recent work i did on a clients nsx.....Stupid soft paint, it was a pain in the ass....... Only used m205 polish with lake county white pad and then finsihed with a blue pad and merz4500. cause even the polish was leaving a lil haze.















Ohh and if you havent already invested in a nano skin pad (clay bar pad), buy one now....Less time and work to clay a car....Easy shit....And last up to 50 cars

[mituc]

Originally Posted by andrewz17 Was just curious if anybody else had any input on this stuff? I recently heard about it from some friends and have been thinking about getting some to try... Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.: Automotive

I use it to remove bird crap and bugs if I can't go to a car wash the same day. I prefer ONR for this because it's wax friendly, while a bug removing solution will wash away the wax/sealant instantly.
I also use it to clay my car - actually I use it more often for claying the car than for washing it.

However, nothing compares with a powerful turbo jet when it comes to removing dirt, sand, bugs, and so on.
The ONR works as expected but never use it on a dirty or even dusty surface without giving the car a good shower. Even a low pressure garden hose would do - and that only if it doesn't have dirt on it. If you have a house and don't live in an apartment complex you can always get a high pressure washer, it doesn't need to be too powerful so these won't be too expensive either. Or go to a self-service car wash with the diluted ONR in a spray bottle and do your thing.

[theurgy]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak recent work i did on a clients nsx.....Stupid soft paint, it was a pain in the ass....... Only used m205 polish with lake county white pad and then finsihed with a blue pad and merz4500. cause even the polish was leaving a lil haze.

LOL I think we were geeking out on detailing on the Mazdaspeed Facebook group today...

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by Jonkabir Oh nice. Thanks for the suggesting but i am looking a good car drying towels under $20. Please suggest me.

Bed Bath and Beyond should have what you are looking for.

[warlord]

Originally Posted by Jonkabir Oh nice. Thanks for the suggesting but i am looking a good car drying towels under $20. Please suggest me.

Here ya go dude. These are the very best drying towels you can buy. They last for years provided you wash them in laundry detergent that doesn't have fabric softeners in it. ALL FREE and CLEAR is good.
https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-P...he+rag+company