New Sonic Tuning Coils: from GB V2

[narezzaspeed3]

Suggestions Please!

I tried putting on the rear spring and strut this past weekend and I ran into this issue.

the lower rear control arm doesn't compress the rear spring and the adjustable perch enough to keep it in place. the length of the spring that comes with the new version is 6 15/16 in

has anyone tried putting on the new spring/coils from ST from the GB V2?


I was wondering if anyone has successfully put them on for pu's

Thanks!

[Haltech]

Have you contacted anyone at sonic tuning? Including, posting in their subforum?

[narezzaspeed3]

Originally Posted by Haltech Have you contacted anyone at sonic tuning? Including, posting in their subforum?

I have. I did not ask about the subforum though. Idk where to find it.

[802MS3]

Call them tomorrow morning.

Audi BMW Mercedes Subaru Wheels LED Lights HID Conversion Kits Contact Us

Says they open at 10AM.

[narezzaspeed3]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 Call them tomorrow morning. Audi BMW Mercedes Subaru Wheels LED Lights HID Conversion Kits Contact Us Says they open at 10AM.

i already did. and they're not really telling me what solution they have. so im asking other people who bought the kit on how they put them on.

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

I bought my coilovers from the GB V2. I hope your not referring to the V3 group buy as there is one right now. The rear is really simple.

The rear installation can be done several ways.

Step 1: Remove stock strut. Make sure you have a jack handy so you can compress the bottom bolt on the strut to relieve all the pressure off the bolt. Once you remove the bottom bolt on the strut, remove the top two bolts on the strut and place it aside.

Step 2; Remove 4 sway bar bolts (I think they're 14mm) that hold the sway bar upright. Let the sway bar swing down and hang.

Step 3: Remove bolt holding rear control axle in place and remove stock spring and the rubber piece that rests on the top of the spring.

Step 4: Remove rear perch bolt from the body of the car. This was a pain because you need a long enough extension. The bolt is very tight. Once you have this removed, there is no factory perch, just the bolt. You slide the bolt through the ST perch and bolt it to the body of the car. (Set your desired ride height because once you bolt it up you wont be able to adjust the height without removing the perch again.

Step 5: Place the spring into the bottom of the axle and rotate it until it locks into the cutout on the bottom of the axle/control arm. Place the provided black spacer on top and position the spring underneath your bolted up perch.

**Make sure you are doing both sides at the same time! This puts less tension on the sway bar and axles when unloading the springs**

Once you have both rear perched and springs in place, begin to compress one side of the axle/ control up with the jack. As you position your desired side, go slowly and stop multiple times to make sure the other side is lining up properly. Once you have one side lined up, bolt everything back up on that side. then lower your jack and go do the other side.

Make sure the opposite side lines up correctly so you don't have problems when you proceed to do the other side.

Be careful when you are putting back the sway bar bolts, I think I over tightened one of mine and it just spins and wont come out.

[narezzaspeed3]

Originally Posted by Mazdaspeed3KHP I bought my coilovers from the GB V2. I hope your not referring to the V3 group buy as there is one right now. The rear is really simple. The rear installation can be done several ways. Step 1: Remove stock strut. Make sure you have a jack handy so you can compress the bottom bolt on the strut to relieve all the pressure off the bolt. Once you remove the bottom bolt on the strut, remove the top two bolts on the strut and place it aside. Step 2; Remove 4 sway bar bolts (I think they're 14mm) that hold the sway bar upright. Let the sway bar swing down and hang. Step 3: Remove bolt holding rear control axle in place and remove stock spring and the rubber piece that rests on the top of the spring. Step 4: Remove rear perch bolt from the body of the car. This was a pain because you need a long enough extension. The bolt is very tight. Once you have this removed, there is no factory perch, just the bolt. You slide the bolt through the ST perch and bolt it to the body of the car. (Set your desired ride height because once you bolt it up you wont be able to adjust the height without removing the perch again. Step 5: Place the spring into the bottom of the axle and rotate it until it locks into the cutout on the bottom of the axle/control arm. Place the provided black spacer on top and position the spring underneath your bolted up perch. **Make sure you are doing both sides at the same time! This puts less tension on the sway bar and axles when unloading the springs** Once you have both rear perched and springs in place, begin to compress one side of the axle/ control up with the jack. As you position your desired side, go slowly and stop multiple times to make sure the other side is lining up properly. Once you have one side lined up, bolt everything back up on that side. then lower your jack and go do the other side. Make sure the opposite side lines up correctly so you don't have problems when you proceed to do the other side. Be careful when you are putting back the sway bar bolts, I think I over tightened one of mine and it just spins and wont come out.

I will try this. Thank you so much! I also got a few info from @Ray Danger 2020

btw, when you say doing both sides at the same time -- Im planning to do the car raised on 4 jack stands? so should it matter if im doing rear first and fronts next?

also, do you have pictures of your car on the sonic tuning GB V2 ?! And what settings are you on? I want to see just so i can get an idea on what my settings will be. I am afraid that the sonic tuning gb v2 specs might be too low. im actually on 18.8 wheels +35 offset and im slightly poking out on wheels/tires so im trying not to be herra frushed. Thank you very mucho

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

Uhh you don't need to have the car on all fours but if need be go ahead. I did the back separately. The back takes literally like an hour once you know how to do it. The front is a different story. Took me like 10 hours no joke. I suggest you buy PB blaster and spray a shit ton on the front knuckle where the strut sits in. You are going to have to hammer out the old shock body. (worst part) Also spray on the sway bar endlink bolts. The bottom endlink bolt is a bitch.

***Some things to note about ride height:

-The Rears go way lower than the front.

-I would set the spring pre-load in the front to where there is no movement within the spring. (pre-load of 0) Then you take the wrench and unlock the bottom collar and spin the top collar, which will thread the body of the coil in to the bottom of the shock body. Make sure the top two locking collars are tight, then spin the top collar down to adjust the height.

-I recommend getting all the ride height perfect before you put the coilovers on. You will have a harder time adjusting the front when its on the car. I wore out/chipped the paint on my collars because of this.

-Currently my fronts are maxed out with about 1 and 1/2 finger gap. The rear on the other hand is about 3/4 of the way maxed out with the same height as the front.

***Some things to note about the endlinks:

-I installed my endlinks by guessing how short to make them. I basically went through a bunch of trial and error and shortened both sides until they weren't making clunking noises anymore.

-What happens is if you make the endlinks too long when you go over a bump the sway bar will rotate and the bolt on the endlink will shift, causing the noise to occur. Doesn't matter how tight you make the bolts. I had the most annoying clunk noise for about a month until I finally measured the endlinks to the correct length.

-Endlinks are prone to making more noise than stock, so some noises are normal. A constant noise isn't normal though.

-Make sure the bolts are tight. Buy a torque wrench and torque to the proper spec, otherwise you might end up over tightening like me and strip tons a bolts. I stripped a top endlink bolt and one of the rear sway bar bolts. I was lucky that I was able to tighten the endlink bolt. I plan on never loosening the bolt again unless I have to.

***If you are running a high offset wheel:

-Make sure you run spacers if you have the stock wheels on your car. The tire will actually rub against the spring if your height is low enough.

-I don't think you will need spacers with your wheels, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Page 6 has some pictures of my car with it fully maxed out and it a little raised:
GB V2: Sonic Tuning Coilovers!!!

If you need other pictures I can get you some. The springs do settle and it takes a full week for them to settle. My car seemed a lot lower after a week. I knew this too because I was scraping is places I wouldn't normally scrape on.


-If you have anymore questions feel free to ask me. I had to call Sonic every time I had a question and they were kind enough to help me out. I didn't have any sort of instructions for the coil overs. I know I would have appreciated the help just as much as you are.

[narezzaspeed3]

Originally Posted by Mazdaspeed3KHP Uhh you don't need to have the car on all fours but if need be go ahead. I did the back separately. The back takes literally like an hour once you know how to do it. The front is a different story. Took me like 10 hours no joke. I suggest you buy PB blaster and spray a shit ton on the front knuckle where the strut sits in. You are going to have to hammer out the old shock body. (worst part) Also spray on the sway bar endlink bolts. The bottom endlink bolt is a bitch. ***Some things to note about ride height: -The Rears go way lower than the front. -I would set the spring pre-load in the front to where there is no movement within the spring. (pre-load of 0) Then you take the wrench and unlock the bottom collar and spin the top collar, which will thread the body of the coil in to the bottom of the shock body. Make sure the top two locking collars are tight, then spin the top collar down to adjust the height. -I recommend getting all the ride height perfect before you put the coilovers on. You will have a harder time adjusting the front when its on the car. I wore out/chipped the paint on my collars because of this. -Currently my fronts are maxed out with about 1 and 1/2 finger gap. The rear on the other hand is about 3/4 of the way maxed out with the same height as the front. ***Some things to note about the endlinks: -I installed my endlinks by guessing how short to make them. I basically went through a bunch of trial and error and shortened both sides until they weren't making clunking noises anymore. -What happens is if you make the endlinks too long when you go over a bump the sway bar will rotate and the bolt on the endlink will shift, causing the noise to occur. Doesn't matter how tight you make the bolts. I had the most annoying clunk noise for about a month until I finally measured the endlinks to the correct length. -Endlinks are prone to making more noise than stock, so some noises are normal. A constant noise isn't normal though. -Make sure the bolts are tight. Buy a torque wrench and torque to the proper spec, otherwise you might end up over tightening like me and strip tons a bolts. I stripped a top endlink bolt and one of the rear sway bar bolts. I was lucky that I was able to tighten the endlink bolt. I plan on never loosening the bolt again unless I have to. ***If you are running a high offset wheel: -Make sure you run spacers if you have the stock wheels on your car. The tire will actually rub against the spring if your height is low enough. -I don't think you will need spacers with your wheels, but it doesn't hurt to check. Page 6 has some pictures of my car with it fully maxed out and it a little raised: GB V2: Sonic Tuning Coilovers!!! If you need other pictures I can get you some. The springs do settle and it takes a full week for them to settle. My car seemed a lot lower after a week. I knew this too because I was scraping is places I wouldn't normally scrape on. -If you have anymore questions feel free to ask me. I had to call Sonic every time I had a question and they were kind enough to help me out. I didn't have any sort of instructions for the coil overs. I know I would have appreciated the help just as much as you are.

Thanks man. i appreciate the help.

when I first tried putting on the rear springs I did not remove my current B8's struts. Im not sure if that mattered, noob at this. But compared the swift spe R springs and the coil springs and i thought it was way too short. I also compared it with the first ST review from BlueDmnSpeed (i think thats his UN on here) and his springs are much longer. So that's why I was little thrown off.

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

Originally Posted by narezzaspeed3 Thanks man. i appreciate the help. when I first tried putting on the rear springs I did not remove my current B8's struts. Im not sure if that mattered, noob at this. But compared the swift spe R springs and the coil springs and i thought it was way too short. I also compared it with the first ST review from BlueDmnSpeed (i think thats his UN on here) and his springs are much longer. So that's why I was little thrown off.

The height of the spring shouldn't matter. It will all compress into the body of the car once you jack the control arm back up. Shorter spring just means that you will have to adjust the height differently on the perch.

[narezzaspeed3]

Originally Posted by Mazdaspeed3KHP The height of the spring shouldn't matter. It will all compress into the body of the car once you jack the control arm back up. Shorter spring just means that you will have to adjust the height differently on the perch.

yeah, so after the spring install, i let the jack drop down and the control arm relaxes, and it seemed like i can just wiggle the spring loose. lol.

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by narezzaspeed3 yeah, so after the spring install, i let the jack drop down and the control arm relaxes, and it seemed like i can just wiggle the spring loose. lol.

Have you tried shortening the rear damper lengths to limit droop?

[Raider]

Moving this to the Sonic Tuning section.

[2.0t03speed]

The Rear shocks of the sonic tuning coils are threaded. You should adjust them that way you cant wiggle the spring loose.

[narezzaspeed3]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 Have you tried shortening the rear damper lengths to limit droop?

Originally Posted by 2.0t03speed The Rear shocks of the sonic tuning coils are threaded. You should adjust them that way you cant wiggle the spring loose.

JESUS SHUTTLESWORTH!?!?!

where have you two been all my life? Thank you.

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

forgot to mention that lol.

[m4tic]

wait.... you didn't know your adjustable coilovers were adjustable?

did you get it sorted?

well at least

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

how did they work out for you?