it's that time!

[NoRegrets]

And so it begins!
Ordered my BT tune last night.
Install will be next Saturday.
Hopefully by this time next week I will be datalogging that sweet sweet gtx3071r.

[Lex]

Got the order thanks! It's proving to be a busy weekend - trying to put in work here in there best I can. Will definitely get you sorted before the install.

[NoRegrets]

Hopefully by this time tomorrow... if the install goes with minimal issues... I will be driving around, letting my new set up calibrate itself so i can start tuning this bad boy!

[Lex]

Just getting that base map setup for you now. You should have it within the hour.

[NoRegrets]

Hey Alex.

I'm a bit confused as to where my boost source would be when running in 3 port.
I understand it's supposed to be on the turbo, but the gtx3071r doesn't have a nipple on it like the factory turbo.

So, how am I supposed to run my lines with my set up?
gtx3071r ewg built into the hotside.
Tial mv-s ewg.
HT-P 3.5" full intake.

I looked around at a lot of threads, and i can't find 1 that shows how to run the lines on a BT.

As always, I thank you for your time and patience.

[Lex]

You either add a boost tap in the tune off the compressor or t off the line running to your bpv.

[NoRegrets]

So there's just 5 things left to do today and I should be back up and running.

Install downpipe. Fabricate an extension for my silicon coupling for the cold side, then tap into it for my boost source. Install EWG/dumptube. Route the lines for my 3port ebcs. Install base map and let ecu learn the new maf trims.

I can't wait to bring her back to life with the new heart transplant!

[NoRegrets]

Everything is in and running good so far!

Drove the car around for about 13 miles with no issues.
Should be putting on the rest of the 40 tomorrow and will have your maf datalog as well.

I will post up the pics i took as well as the start up.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Everything is in and running good so far! Drove the car around for about 13 miles with no issues. Should be putting on the rest of the 40 tomorrow and will have your maf datalog as well. I will post up the pics i took as well as the start up.

Excellent to hear. Looking forward to the logs!

[calizoomzoom]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Everything is in and running good so far! Drove the car around for about 13 miles with no issues. Should be putting on the rest of the 40 tomorrow and will have your maf datalog as well. I will post up the pics i took as well as the start up.

Build Diary? I'd like to read up as you continue modding with the 3071.

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by calizoomzoom Build Diary? I'd like to read up as you continue modding with the 3071.

Everything I have is in my signature so I'll save myself the headache of putting on here.

I did buy new gaskets for the turbo.
OEM Manifold Turbo Gasket and upper OEM Downpipe Gasket.

I bought everything from edgeautosports.com and it was this kit:
ATP Turbo External Wastegate Bolt On Turbo Kit Mazdaspeed 3 MS3

Of course I had grabbed other miscellaneous things that didn't come with the kit as well.

I started Saturday morning around 10am and finished Sunday night around 6:30pm... in fact I will say we, due to having help from good friends.

It took a little to figure out how to do the springs in the ewg, due to the instructions on Tial's website stating we needed a red, black spring instead of red AND black springS stacked together.
I don't know what other's experience was with the springs provided with the kit, but mine were not solid in color. So it was a bit confusing.

We then put the fittings/plugs onto the wastegate.
WE put the nipples on. 1 on the top air port and 1 on a lower.
Then we plugged up the rest of the air ports.

We then went to the car and put it on jack stands.

Pulled the battery, battery box, disconnected the lines to my ebcs, intake, turbo inlet, skid plate so we could remove the downpipe, then downpipe.
I left the turbo manifold on because I was keeping it. But if you want, you can remove it for easier access to the bolts on the downpipe.

NOTE: Make sure that as soon as you have access to all the bolts, spray them with PB Blast or use what I did WD-40 Specialist Rust Release Penetrant Spray with Blu Torch Technology.
It makes a big difference. I didn't break one stud because of this stuff.

We then removed the egr solenoid and put the block off plate on. I had a little cap that I put over the nipple to keep it from draining coolant everywhere.

I then disconnected the coolant lines, and oil feed line from the k04.
Then I removed the oil return line as to make the turbo as slim as possible.

We then went up top and disconnected all the plugs and the fuel line and pushed them aside to make room to take the turbo out.
Removed the heat shield for the brake fluid reservoir to make more room for the turbo to squeeze thru.

Then we removed the turbo bracket and pulled it out from the intake side.

We took off the hard line for the coolant and put it onto the GTX.
We had to bend it, in order for it to clear the turbo as well as the oil return line.
My friend hooked up some other stuff, while I was under the car getting ready to have the GTX handed down to me thru the same opening we took the k04 out of.

Once in place, my buddy bolted it up to the turbo mani and I hooked up the oil return line. Which was a pitb, but it fit.
Then we hooked up the coolant lines as well as the oil feed line.

I didn't have the 90* 2.5"-2" coupler adaptor to connect the intercooler pipeing to the turbo.
So we went to an autoparts store and picked up a small piece of 2" diameter exhaust pipe as a connector.
Then went to a marina store and picked up 2" diameter boat exhaust.... which is almost the same material as the silicon couplings and obviously can withstand some heat since it's made to be exhaust for v8 driven boats.

We then jerry rigged my old cobb coupling with the boat exhaust and metal tube to make it long enough to reach the turbo.
We then tapped it with the nipple provided so I had my boost source for the ebcs.

Then installed the slim battery box, and 3.5" intake without any issues.
As well as hooked all the plugs and fuel line back up.

My friend installed the 3 bar map sensor for me since I was under the car doing something else.
It's located on the passenger side of the intake manifold where all the connectors are at... well, actually tucked behind them.
You just have to be careful when removing it as to not break the sensor off into the manifold itself.

Now comes the most difficult part of the whole install. The wastegate and dumptube. I payed the extra $105 for the 90* elbow that connects to the wastegate so I had more options for positioning.
The vband clamps are stiff as hell and you will need help from a guy standing over the top of the engine.
Also, it takes a good amount of patience and time to figure out the correct way to have it clocked/configured.
I have some pics of what worked for my setup which I will post in the next post.

After that big ass headache, I hooked up my 3port ebcs.
Port 1 goes into the nipple coming off of the intake/turbo inlet.
Port 2 goes to the ewg on the lower air port.
Port 3 goes onto the tap in the coupling that I had to extend.

We then installed the downpipe.
For me, the gasket provided for the connection between the dp and exhaust was waaaaaaaaay too thin.
Luckily, my friend had some extra ones laying around and we copper rtv'd them together and stuffed those bad boys in.

We had the 51r battery on a trickle charger the whole time. So we put it in and I installed my base tune.

We all then crossed our fingers and I started the car up 1st try!
I let it idle for a bit on the jack stands till we were satisfied that everything was good.

Then I took it for a easy test drive.

Today, after I put 40 miles on the turbo, I went a took a MAF calibration datalog and she seems to be doing good.
I gave her a little push and stopped around 12pds of boost.
She sounds sexy and feels good.

[NoRegrets]

So I decided to roll into WOT just to see how everything feels and I'm only getting around 15psi, according to my defi boost gauge... I didn't have my AP in the car at the time.

So I'm assuming that the wastegate is running off of spring pressure and not the ebcs.

I currently have my Stratified ebcs set up like this:
Port 1 goes into the nipple coming off of the intake/turbo inlet.
Port 2 goes to the ewg on the lower air port.
Port 3 goes onto the tap in the coupling that goes from the fmic pipe into the turbo.
As per instructed by the instructions on the Stratified website.

I posted up a pic of the diagram for the Tial MV-S so you can see which ports I am talking about.

Also, I am posting up a pic of a different way to run the lines for the ebcs that other's have done on this forum and said it has worked for them.

I just want to know what you think on this matter @Lex;

[NoRegrets]

Oh, and here are the little bit of pics I took.
As well as the video of the 1st start up.

1st pic is what the engine bay looked like with my old set up.

2nd is my car on stands and my buddie's fiance's Forrester XT.

3rd is the GTX in place and you can also see how we had moved all the wiring and lines out of the way to make room to remove the old turbo and install the new.

4th is how it sits now.

5th is the piece of car exhaust and boat exhaust that we had used to extend the coupler going from the fmic piping to the turbo.

And the rest are to show how I had configured the wastegate and dumptube.

[Lex]

The base map I sent is intentionally running low boost. We want to start low and just walk it up. Far better to do that than to overboost .

[NoRegrets]

Did my datalogs for the 1st revision of my map and this car is just a whole new beast!

I was floating all the way thru 3rd gear when doing a WOT run!

I will be in need of wider and stickier tires in the near future

I can't wait to see how this all turns out in the end.

[NoRegrets]

Welp, one of my fears came true.
Just blew the coupling off of the turbo/intercooler pipeing at 23psi lol

Ordered a 90* 1 piece elbow to hopefully fix it.

[mxlplx71]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Welp, one of my fears came true. Just blew the coupling off of the turbo/intercooler pipeing at 23psi lol Ordered a 90* 1 piece elbow to hopefully fix it.

a better clamp may help to

[NoRegrets]

Going to the 1 piece will eliminate some unnecessary components and allow me to use my 2 existing t-bolt clamps.

It should hopefully eliminate this issue... hopefully.

[NoRegrets]

Sorry for the lack of update.

This is the 1 piece coupler I purchesed.
You just trim to fit and it works perfectly.
Especially since you have less clamps to deal with.

Custom 2" To 2.5" 90 Degree Reducer Silicone Hose 51mm - 63mm Turbo Coupler 5ply

[NoRegrets]

Final results of tune.
This is a comparison of the k04 vs gtx3071r using Virtual Dyno set to CF1.01.
Both tunes were done on stock block using 93oct only.
With the gtx run, I had 97k miles on the odometer.

I would like to thank Alex for all his time and effort to provide me with a safe and reliable tune.

Next step will be WMI when I get bored of the current power levels

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Final results of tune. This is a comparison of the k04 vs gtx3071r using Virtual Dyno set to CF1.01. Both tunes were done using 93oct only. I would like to thank Alex for all his time and effort to provide me with a safe and reliable tune. Next still with be WMI when I get bored of the current power levels

Pleasure was mine sir!

[NoRegrets]

I lost a quart of oil in 2,600 miles. Never had this happen before. Lifted her up and checked oil feed/return lines, had no visible signs of a leak. Checked the charge pipe as well and it was clean.
Every once in a while I have a faint smell of burning oil but no smoke coming out the exhaust.

I use Rotella T6.

Any ideas of what could have caused this.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets I lost a quart of oil in 2,600 miles. Never had this happen before. Lifted her up and checked oil feed/return lines, had no visible signs of a leak. Checked the charge pipe as well and it was clean. Every once in a while I have a faint smell of burning oil but no smoke coming out the exhaust. I use Rotella T6. Any ideas of what could have caused this.

Sounds like it could be a PCV valve issue.
Any other symptoms?

[NoRegrets]

No other symptoms from what i can see/hear/feel.

But i'm curious if the PCV valve would be an issue since my DM OCC came with an check valve.
Unless that went bad as well, i've had it for quite some years now.

[turboKart]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets I lost a quart of oil in 2,600 miles.... Any ideas of what could have caused this.

How much gunk have you drained out of the occ?

Also - I wanted to thank you for the clear and concise build thread - you re-infected me with the silly idea that inserting a BT in place of a functional (but smokey) stock turbo is a smart thing.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets No other symptoms from what i can see/hear/feel. But i'm curious if the PCV valve would be an issue since my DM OCC came with an check valve. Unless that went bad as well, i've had it for quite some years now.

The car is running strong otherwise?
Also high revving and lots of WOT will go through more oil which is normal.
If consumption continues and PCV valves/check valves are clear the next test to perform is a compression test to make sure the cylinders are still sealing well.

[NoRegrets]

I empty my OCC when i do my oil change every 5,000 miles.

But when I had the car up to look for oil leaks, I decided to empty it.

Which now that i think about it, it was different than all the other times.
It normally is just black in color, but this time it was like chocolate milk.

You can see it in the pic. Some of what's in the bottle is from a previous draining.

I honestly don't go too crazy in the car... but we did do a decent amout on WOT runs while trying to dial in the new turbo. So maybe that might have something to do with it.

I will try to do a 4th gear datalog on Wednesday so you can look at it.

But from what I can see/feel, she still seems good and strong.

[Lex]

The drop in temperature will cause a lot of moisture to be caught in the catch can and that gives it that milkier look. It also fills it up faster in colder weather.

[NoRegrets]

I've had this car since brand new back in 2008 with 15 miles on the clock.

One of the 1st mods I did was an OCC. And I empty it religiously every 5,000 miles.

This is the very 1st time I have ever seen it any color than black since I emptied it with 95,000 miles on the clock.
That's why it made me feel uncomfortable to see it this color.

But if you say this is normal, than I will take your word for it.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets I've had this car since brand new back in 2008 with 15 miles on the clock. One of the 1st mods I did was an OCC. And I empty it religiously every 5,000 miles. This is the very 1st time I have ever seen it any color than black since I emptied it with 95,000 miles on the clock. That's why it made me feel uncomfortable to see it this color. But if you say this is normal, than I will take your word for it.

I see a lot more accumulation in the OCC in the colder months due to moisture but you know your car and climate very well if you've had it since new. Keep an eye on things and perform the tests I suggested.

[NoRegrets]

This is a quick 4th gear datalog I was able to do yesterday.

When I'm cruising around, there's 0 kr. But when I went WOT, I saw a crazy amount of kr.
The motor was more than warmed up from doing errands, so it can't be from that.

I wont be able to do a compression test for a little while.
But when I do, I will post up the results.
My friend has a leak down test, so we will do that as well.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets This is a quick 4th gear datalog I was able to do yesterday. When I'm cruising around, there's 0 kr. But when I went WOT, I saw a crazy amount of kr. The motor was more than warmed up from doing errands, so it can't be from that. I wont be able to do a compression test for a little while. But when I do, I will post up the results. My friend has a leak down test, so we will do that as well.

That 4.5 value is either because you got to the rev limiter or let off and there was some mechanical noise. The real kr maxes out at 1.75 in this log. Take another log to confirm consistency and send both to me via email.

Also make sure the fuel you are using is the same as what we tuned on. If that's the case the top end just needs a very small touch up.

[NoRegrets]

Thank you Alex.
This is using the same fuel... I have a bit of an issue with OCD, so I'm a creature of habbit lol.

I will try and get some logs to you in the next couple of days.

[NoRegrets]

Finally got around to performing a compression test.

1: 170
2: 185
3: 155
4: 185

Tried to do a leak down test, but couldn't get a good seal with the tester on 3 of the cylinders.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Finally got around to performing a compression test. 1: 170 2: 185 3: 155 4: 185 Tried to do a leak down test, but couldn't get a good seal with the tester on 3 of the cylinders.

That pesky #3 ! Cranked enough times for the needle to stop rising I assume? If you have any questions about options send me a message.

[NoRegrets]

Step 1 has been taken... I'm nervous and excited all in one.

[NoRegrets]

@Lex;

With my setup, running meth, what's the average hp you see?
I'm trying to get an idea of what I will need for my build to make sure nothing will have issues.

Thanks.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets @Lex; With my setup, running meth, what's the average hp you see? I'm trying to get an idea of what I will need for my build to make sure nothing will have issues. Thanks.

Your turbo is capable of 430-480whp range depending on ambient temperature levels and supporting modifications etc. You will need a good amount of meth to get there both for octane and fueling. Let me know your power goals and we can discuss just how much methanol you will need.

[NoRegrets]

I've been quite for a bit so I could get my finances in order.
I'm happy to say, I've gathered up some things in the past couple of days as well as ordered some stuff.
All in preperation for my SP63 longblock build!!!
I will hopefully be putting in an order with them sometime this month.
I'm so excited and nervous!

[NoRegrets]

Okay, so there was a car show/charity event this past Saturday and they had $50 dyno pulls so I decided to throw my car on there, low compression cylinder and all.
I had faith my car would be more than capable to do some pulls and not vent the block on me.

I was pleasantly surprised to get 333whp 355wtq.

The best part was shutting down all the v8 heads in the crowd.
I was hearing moaning and groaning as my car was being loaded up... even stupid low guesses of 160whp.
I drove off the rollers with a stupid grin on my face and new found respect from a lot of muscle/classic car guys.

Dyno sheet and vid are attached.
The guy running the dyno believed I was having spark blow out issues, hence the jumpy power curve.