BIG TURBO: What do you need?

[Chimmike]

So, since I posted this in another thread, I figured I'd post something a little more elaborate here, just the BASICS of the MINIMAL requirements for going big turbo on your MZR.

There are plenty of members much more well versed in the MZR than me who will chime in with tips and stuff along the way..........at least I hope they do.

This is intended to be a STICKY!

So, you ask yourself: Is the stock K04 turbo enough for me? is 290-300whp more than enough? If you're in this section, reading this thread, you've answered no to both those questions. This means you've got the bug, and you're screwed. Sign over the blank check, boys and girls.

These are the things you will need, at the bare minimum, for a safe big turbo setup on the MZR. This is utilizing the stock mazda flange so you can use any bolt-on aftermarket downpipe. I've done my best to list manufacturers that make the parts.

And so for the list: ALSO NOTE: These parts can be sourced through the many fine vendors on MSF.org

TURBO: ATP Turbo bolt-on kits for the mazdaspeed3/6-your choice: gt2871r, gt3071r, gt3076r, gt3582r, or the GTX variants (I'm not going to detail what turbo makes what power, you need to research that on your own)

MANIFOLD: You may use your stock manifold as many have done, OR Protege Garage, Steedspeed, or DNP manifold. Either will flow better than stock. Power gain over stock manifold? Who knows for sure. 5whp? 20whp? If expense is a concern, stock manifold will work.

ENGINE MANAGEMENT: Cobb Accessport, Unichip, CP-E Standback. You'll find the most support on this website is geared towards the Accessport, which is one of the finest, most user-friendly tuners on the market. YOU TOO can learn to self-tune.....but I recommend getting a professional tune done for your big turbo setup.

FUELING: Upgraded cam driven fuel pump: PTP, CP-E, or you can get internals through Autotech or KMD (easy to install if you're mechanically inclined). This is absolutely necessary!

INJECTOR SUPPORT: Injector seals: PTP or CP-E Safeseals. They're pretty similar in design. Again, these are necessary! Additionally: studs and nuts to replace the injector crows feet. Research this here on msf.org for specifics.

DOWNPIPE: Any aftermarket downpipe that will bolt on the stock turbo will work. CP-E, Cobb, Corksport, ATP, ebay, etc.

INTERCOOLING: You can go top mount or front mount. Front mount is recommended as top mount still heat soaks. Top Mount: CP-E, ETS. Front Mount: Cobb, CX Racing, CP-E, ATP, Bell Engineering, etc.

TURBO INLET: Big turbos have a bigger compressor inlet. You can have a custom intake made to go from the turbo to the filter, but these are bolt-on options. CP-E makes a big turbo inlet that you can get an adapter for to use with your aftermarket intake/short ram.

INTAKE: Again, CP-E makes a big turbo short ram intake, as does ATP. These are preferable to a stock-turbo based short ram as they flow a good bit more air.

This is the most basic list of parts you will need to safely go big turbo. Once your goals mean 400+whp, that brings in some other cards to the deck, and you need to be aware of those cards and what they mean to the game. All that information is here thanks to the big power pioneers who are continually advancing the platform.

And again, it's critical that you do your own research. There's a lot more to it than just slapping these parts on and going. Your tune will make or break your experience. A bad tune could easily blow your motor big turbo or even stock. A good tune would be the difference between "wow this big turbo is fun" and "OMFG HOLD THE FCK ON!".

Oil and coolant lines. ATP says their lines are compatible and you should need no others. Research this to be sure!

Choose your parts wisely, and happy boosting.