HOW TO: TOP MOUNT TURBO SET UP!!

[dougefresh_]

PART 1: PREP WORK!
First things first, and here's the prep work I did prior to the BT Install, in a nutshell:

1. Upgraded my injector seals w/ the help of Skates and thanks to Silver Demon for creating them How To CPE Injector Seals + Studs + EGR Delete
2. Deleted my EGR at the same time as it's super easy while doing your injector seals
3. Balance Shaft Delete How to - Balance shaft delete
4. Upgraded all my fmic couplers, and replaced all my vac lines.
5. Custom Hot Pipe. Your sexy new turbo sits about 6" to the left of the stocker, and about 3" closer to the front of the car.
6. I also moved my battery back, but this may not be necessary.


1&2) I Upgraded my injector Seals w/ the CPE (Silver Demon) ones found here: CPE MZR 2.3 DISI SAFEseal. The stock ones are prone to leaking, which will show as false KR making tuning impossible, and they can also blow out and cause head damage. Here's a 'how to' Skates and I did when we did my seals. We also upgraded the stock Torx Bolts that hold in the crow's feet for nuts and studs. This is optional, but recommended as sometimes the Torx bolts strip, etc. The how to also includes the egr delete, and all the part #'s and links: How To CPE Injector Seals + Studs + EGR Delete

3) For the BSD, we followed Dane's "How To" found here: How to - Balance shaft delete. I went with the gpwerks BSD kit and baffled oil pan. Here's a link to their BSD kit https://www.gp-werks.com/categories/...26-Components/. They've been slammed and don't have their baffled oil pan listed yet, but they DO sell it for $60 you just have to call them. Here's a pic of it anyways:


4) I Have the CPE fmic, and the couplers are skimpy as hell. I upgraded those and replaced all my vac line with fresh stuff for good measure. See post #147 here if you have a cpe fmic or are just bored out of your tits, lol: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...18/index4.html

5) I lucked out with the CPE fmic kit, and it turned out that by replacing the cpe hot pipe with 2 18" long L-pipes and hump hose connectors required zero fabbing or cutting. I suggest mocking it up ahead of time like I did, so you're not scrambling for a pipe at install. Here's the mock up based on looking at Joel's pics:



6) Meh, see post #150 here http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...18/index4.html. If you end up buying the battery tray I used, you'll also have to cut the gigantic battery tie down rods, as the huge new intake will be in the way:



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PART 2: MINOR BT INSTALL PREP WORK

This one is easy. The stock tmic scoop thingy attached to your hood has to go as it's in the way of your new giant intake, so just undo the 4 screws and remove it. You can do this at install, but it will just add time:



**IMPORTANT** There are two Exhaust Mani studs (3rd from passenger side) that will NOT fit w/ the SteedSpeed Top Mount Manifold. So they just need to be cut by about 1/4". Joel Hinkle did this set up, and here are pics of exactly where to cut them:



Now Joel cut his at install, but I bought two OEM ones from Mazda ($10) so I could cut them in advance, and save some time at install. Here's mine all cut ahead of time:



Finally, pre-clock your turbo. The hot side and compressor side both rotate around the CHRA (middle part) after you just loosen all the bolts slightly. The ones on the hot side are hex and the ones on the compressor are like 13 or 14mm. Based on Joel's pics esp this one of the mani:

Going off of this pic of Joel's:


I clocked it like this:






It was almost perfect!

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PART 3 PARTS LIST!

1. New Turbo, SteedSpeed Top Mount Mani, Tial EWG (MVS)

I went with a Garret Turbo twin scroll 3076 w/ .78 hot side (from SU Mark StreetUnit.com - Premier MAZDASPEED Performance Specialists), the Steed Speed Twin Scroll Top Mount Mani Steed Speed - Mazdaspeed 3/6 top mount turbo manifold with singe 38mm EWG (I'd go 44mm as I get creep) , and a Tial 38mm MVS ewg from SU Mark as well. Here's a shot of my turbo, Steed Speed Top Mount Mani and Tial:






^The new Tial MVS EWG's now come with ALL the springs for whatever psi you want to run for the same price! I also HIGHLY recommend going twin scroll if you go big. The twin scroll turbo and SS mani spool really quick. With a 16psi spring, I've gone wot at 3155 rpms and hit 16psi at 3407rpms. Log attached (untuned, and I creep to 21psi, which is why I suggest going 44mm or twin 38mm's (you need the mani to be twin ewg, but Steed Speed makes them).


2. NOW!!!! Dustin Sells a Kit that includes your new custom DP, Intake, Custom Oil Lines, & Screamer Pipe. PM him for more info:

DP:



Intake (Cone and reducer not included, but listed in parts list below):



From top to bottom, custom Oil Return Slide (to bottom of turbo), oil return, and Oil Feed (all other ATP parts needed listed below):


You also need to be a good boy, and be sure to return your stock oil feed and return line to him after the install. You re-use one of the coolant lines from the K04, but that's described in PART 4: INSTALL below

Here's the complete parts list from ATP Turbo and a couple other Misc Things you NEED!!:

-4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor : atpturbo.com -4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor x1
Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 3 Ft., straight / 90 degree : atpturbo.com Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 3 Ft., 1 end straight / 1 end 90 degree x1
Oil Return Gasket - GT Series : atpturbo.com Oil Return Gasket - GT Series x1
Custom Oil Return Line Built to Order #10 (-10) size steel braided : atpturbo.com Custom Oil Return Line Built to Order #10 (-10) size steel braided straight ends 16" long x1
14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb : atpturbo.com 14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb x1
T3 inlet gasket, divided : atpturbo.com T3 inlet gasket, divided x1
10mm (1.5 pitch) Stud : atpturbo.com 10mm 1.5 thread studs for turbo to manifold x4
10mm (1.5 pitch) Nut Locking Head : atpturbo.com 10mm locking nuts x4
Washer - Steel 20.32mm OD : atpturbo.com 10mm washer x4 EDIT: USE LOCKING WASHERS INSTEAD, THE NUTS CAN BACK OFF W THE WASHERS LISTED HERE***
FTG-QuickTap-CompHSG : atpturbo.com Boost source tap x1

Here's all the stuff listed above from ATP that showed up at my doorstep today.



^From LEFT TO RIGHT here's what you're looking in each package: 1) Braided hose to connect DJ's custom oil return slide (on bottom of turbo) to the custom oil return line. 2) 14mm Coolant Return Banjo Fitting (connects to BACK of turbo facing firewall, and fitting faces DOWN. 3) Oil Feed Line and Brass Oil Feed Restrictor. Restrictor goes on TOP of turbo, an 90* bend attaches to that fitting. The straight end connects to the modified Oil Feed Line that attaches to block just below the Alternator. 4) Turbo Studs, Nuts, & Washers (you only need 4, but I bought 6 to be safe, lol). 5) Twin Scroll Gasket, goes between Turbo and Mani, and the Oil Return Gastket that goes between Turbo and Custom Oil Return Slide on BOTTOM of turbo. 6) ATP Quick Tap. You take your 45* compressor outlet coupler for an unrestricted boost source, and run this to an AIR port on your Tial EWG. This is all covered in the "HOW TO" post that follows, but I thought this may help.

Here are the couplers/reducers I needed for the CPE FMIC kit *Note CPE pipes are 2.25" so you may need 2" to 2.5" or whatever size your pipes are:
2" to 2.25" Reducer for turbo outlet Silicone 45 degree Reducer 2" to 2.25" Hose 51mm > 57mm | eBay

For the intake:
Silicone Coupler Reducer 4" - 3.5" Hose 102mm 89mm Red | eBay
You also need a 4" T-bolt Clamp for where the new intake attaches to the turbo compressor: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...7a2de66b6e95d0
And a 3.5" T-Bolt Clamp for where the 4" to 3.5" reducer attaches to your new intake: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...7a2de66b6e95d0
^They also have really nice, thick ply couplers at a reasonable price. That's where I bought all my new couplers to replace the CPE fmic couplers.

Amsoil Air Filter #EEAU3560 AMSOIL Ea Air Filters - Nanofiber Technology *when that page opens the drop down box defaults to the top filter. You want part #EEAU3560 from that pull down list.

Random Parts Needed:
Jegg's Hose Sealant (don't use Russel's Hose Sealant): JEGS Performance Products 28011 JEGS Thread Sealant

3" V-Band for DP. You don't need the flanges, as the hot side has one, and so does the custom DP. I sourced mine at a local speed shop last minute, but here's a link to what you one from Jegs anyways: Turbonetics 30242 Turbonetics V-Band Clamps and Accessories

3-4' of 5/16" Heater Hose. Use this high temp stuff if you never want problems: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...oducts_id=3414
Two 5/16" Unions, and 4 small worm clamps. You can get these at any AutoZone/Napa, etc. for cheap.

You also need TWO SS Socket Caps for the Oil Return Slide. The correct size is 8M x 1.25 x 16mm. I got them at a bolt specialty store I know in town. Had em' in stock. Here's a pic, you don't need the rules, ha:


If you plan to recirc your BPV as I am, you will also need some 1 1/8" recirc hose. I thought I had hose that would work, but it didn't, so I ordered last minute from Pegasus:
Pegasus - Blue Silicone Hose, Straight, 1 1/8 inch ID, 1 Meter Length

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