The Motor Mount Thread

[guerrero1977]

Any feedback on J Barone TMM???

[evolizzee]

get used to gear noise with the JBR TMM, and plastic vibes from the JBR PMM

[frequencysurfer]

Shit, my TRZ dogbone has the plastic vibrating already and after ~8k miles it's still annoying.
What duro JBR TMM/PMM did you go with? I'm thinking of doing 70 for the TMM/PMM and replacing the TRZ with the JBR dogbone...

[rednofive]

I spent 1 hour last night and 3 hours today reading about RMM since I've only modified my MS3 with gauges, wheels, and yellow fog lights.

For those considering the job - a simple vid showing where and what needs to be unbolted:

Mazda3 Motor Mount Removal - YouTube

Mazda3 Motor Mount Removal - YouTube

Here's the best post I could find (IMHO):
Rear motor mount

And all these conversations were damn useful:
CP-E Rear Motor Mount Install
Corksport motor mount inserts INSTALLED!
Rear motor mount
Rear Stock motor mount mod
What motor mount should I get?
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...bushing-51562/
CP-E RMM in stock
MM inserts
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...p-first-21818/


My summary of all that great MSF feedback?

• Want something cheap with better reinforcement and shifting improvement over stock that you might have to "re-fill" in a few ten's of thousands of miles? Corksport inserts
• Most felt that 60A or 70-75A durometer hardness were enough to get the better shifts and launch smoothness they wanted
• Some felt that A/C turned on with 60 or 70-75A hardness was just too much
• Most felt that the additional vibration will go away (or they got used to) after about 1000 miles, with or without A/C on: CP-E 60A/75A or SU 62A(street)/?#?(track)
• Many posts I found with those with CS inserts upgraded something with 60A hardness, then wish they had gotten 75 (or the like)
• Many posts I found with those with a 60-hardness anything wanted a 75.
• Only those that didn't care at all about vibes and claimed to want 0-wheel hop went TRZ.
• Most common drag/track response: go TRZ.
• Those that felt the vibes but wanted the benefits raised their idle to 850 to 1000 RPM to win the compromise

There, I hope I just saved all future MS3 noobs like me 4 hours of their life.
It helped me make up my mind...

Update from June 2012....
I've got over 1000 miles on the CP-E 75 durometer and the vibes are nothing to think about. I don't notice them much anymore unless I use my AC. Raising idle to 1000 RPM would completely remove them.

That said, vibes or no vibes, the mod is amazing. the car scoots and stays planted. I'm now able to spin the tires at will and can now feather the throttle to get the acceleration I want and even when shifting into 3rd (though I have no-season tires on, so take that FWIW). The differential is working more now and acceleration through turns is amazingly improved. I still remain shocked at how cool (and cheap) a mod this is.

A MUST DO MOD!

5

[bigriver]

Answer is easier. Just get 88 durameter dogbone. Once it settles after a couple of hundred miles or so, the vibes are barely noticeable. I hardly feel any change when A/C kicks in/out. If there are strong vibes after it settles, that means the bolts need to be re-torqued.

My daily commute is 40 miles each way and I would not use the dogbone if the vibes bothered me.

And jbr install instructions cover everything you need to know. There are only five bolts involved.

[sick_role]

lol not much love for the TRZ up there; "hundred bux ea. here's a pic." then again I'm biased and love mine.

Good thread though and thank you for another "definitive" thread. I think the summary that was provided a few posts up was very useful too (or would be to someone looking to purchase mounts).

[its_stili_time]

I am looking at upgrading the RMM on my MS6 come spring. Looking at CP-E and SURE. Can't decide between the CP-E rubber and the SURE urethane. Thoughts?

[RhoadBlock]

Torque Solution MS3 RMM added to OP.

Be sure to mention me if you feel anything should ever be added to the OP.

[6Y MAZDA]

opinions on Sure vs JBR RMM? besides $135 vs $90. which is "better," more effective, more dependable?

[6Y MAZDA]

Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA opinions on Sure vs JBR RMM? besides $135 vs $90. which is "better," more effective, more dependable?

to follow up on this...i ended up going with SU RMM 62 duro i believe. got it for free from the previous owner of my car. vibrations are very very minimal.

[TiGraySpeed6]

both great companies, both great products
heck you could choose by color, or by throwing darts, and you couldn't go wrong between those two.

You'll be pleased by the improvement regardless of the decision.

[Mizzle]

JBR has 3 different duro's for the transmission mount now.

[mikelevi]

Just finished installing AWR 88 durometer mounts all the way around. Install very easy, no hangups and took around 2 total hours. Increased vibrations at idle a lot, 1K - 2.5K RPM also vibrates a ton in all gears. Hope it smooths out after a few thousand miles. All in all, completely confident know with motor movement.

[Mizzle]

Uh, 70 ft. lbs. on the JBR (it's a SS bolt now so it's about a Grade 5,) and the vibes are negligible.

my .02

[TheRealDefman]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Uh, 70 ft. lbs. on the JBR (it's a SS bolt now so it's about a Grade 5,) and the vibes are negligible. my .02

Well, here's your two cents back... From Page 6 of the JBR install doc located here.... http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

"Place a flat washer, lock washer and nut on to the supplied stainless bolt. Tighten and torque to 120 foot-pounds using a 19mm socket, socket wrench, torque wrench and closed end wrench."

[JBR]

Always has been a stainless bolt, same bolt included with the CP-E or any other billet style mount and as mentioned, not a grade 2 bolt. Whomever the mount was purchased from sold it to you with a crap bolt.

Thanks,
Jamie

[token_asian_guy]

just trying to get any follow up input from those with the SURE RMM (street). has the vibration dissipated at all? or have you gotten used to it?

thanks in advance.

[nicholas.oday]

Great thread.

I haven't done anything on my car yet (tint doesn't count IMO), but the engine mount issue is well documented and discussed, so it's something I've thought about frequently. I am fairly (maybe a bit generous) good with easy-ish car repairs and what-not... can anyone tell me (generally speaking) what tools I should have on hand to swap out the engine mounts?

Thanks in advance..

[nicholas.oday]

Originally Posted by nicholas.oday Great thread. I haven't done anything on my car yet (tint doesn't count IMO), but the engine mount issue is well documented and discussed, so it's something I've thought about frequently. I am fairly (maybe a bit generous) good with easy-ish car repairs and what-not... can anyone tell me (generally speaking) what tools I should have on hand to swap out the engine mounts? Thanks in advance..

....soooo, I read some directions on the JBR website. Turns out I MAY have asked an asshole question. Oops. Must buy JBR RMM....

'merica

[crtguns]

dSt DIYMMI Do It Yourself Motor Mount Inserts - Liquid Urethane

nN control of duromoeter rating though. Still probably better than neoprene.

[Raider]

That's not for ms3...

[crtguns]

sez universal. replaces the neoprene in any motor mount.

[crtguns]

you can read?

[Raider]

Nice try, fuckhead. Yes, I can read, and no, those wont work.

Originally Posted by crtguns sez universal. replaces the neoprene in any motor mount.

Originally Posted by crtguns you can read?

[TiGraySpeed6]

Somebody double-check me here-

I thought this stuff was the kind you shoot into the voids of the mount to fill em up and solidify the mount. Works on any mounts with void area.

Not personally a fan of the concept, it's just a band-aid fix at best, and for the time/effort involved you get better performing, longer lasting results from a "real" replacement mount.

[Raider]

Yeah, we did that crap in the 3rd Gen Proteges with epoxy. Works for a couple years, then breaks loose.

[nicholas.oday]

I have an unusual amount of "clunk" at low speed driving, especially on less-than-perfect roads, and from what I have read on MSF it sounds like my RMM could be the culprit. I had the dealership give the car a once over right before my 40k warranty was up (several times before as well) and mentioned I thought I heard quite a bit of "clunking", but each time they said all was well. This is my DD and I put a lot of highway miles on it, along with occasional spirited driving, and I just cannot decide of I should go with the CS inserts or something like a 70A JBR. I have some simple mods planned (SRI, short shift kit, tune, maybe some suspension upgrades) so I would rather touch the RMM only once if possible. Anyone want to share some wisdom with me? I should probably mention this is for my '09 MS3...

Thanks for reading!

[gyoku2006@gmail.com]

i pretty sure if you read the previous post it pretty much sums up everything you need to know....just saying

[nicholas.oday]

Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com i pretty sure if you read the previous post it pretty much sums up everything you need to know....just saying

I will have to disagree, seeing as how the previous post mentions nothing about the CS inserts.

Additionally, I completely understand the arguments made regarding "the higher the better" in terms of DM count. However, and I feel this bears reiterating so someone can offer a HELPFUL opinion, I am on the highway the majority of the time and only occasionally put my foot in the car. I am prepared to replace the RMM (or go the CS inserts route) and I would like to hear from anyone who might have had experience in both, and what their driving impressions were. I have read through this thread in detail (I ain't got shit else to do right now - my left knee is toast and I'm counting money I haven't made yet) and I have to say, unless I missed someone's post earlier about the two specific solutions I discussed, I'd say I satisfied my duty in reading.

Just saying

[Staceye77]

im intersted in the trz rmm and tm. cuz im a lady and i love me some vibes ~. when i go to the site they have them listed for 2004 to 2010. since i have a 2012 ms3 will these parts fit my car?

[radioflyer]

Well fuck, so I pop the hood today to finish cleaning up a wiring project after running the car hard as fuck last night on the freeway, and I see this oily shit all over the place that looks like its coming from the valve cover gasket right by the passenger side motor mount.

Wiped it down, started the motor, reved it, let it run, no oil comes out.

I noticed this oily shit is pooling in the little rubber dish that is the motor mount.

Took a real good look and it look like the mount was ripped, pushed down on it and a thick gooey oil started pouring out.

Sooo I take it the passenger side mount is supposed to be fluid filled?

Just ordered a new CPE mount cause its ripped regardless but are they supposed to be fluid filled?

[tddvrrn]

Originally Posted by radioflyer Well fuck, so I pop the hood today to finish cleaning up a wiring project after running the car hard as fuck last night on the freeway, and I see this oily shit all over the place that looks like its coming from the valve cover gasket right by the passenger side motor mount. Wiped it down, started the motor, reved it, let it run, no oil comes out. I noticed this oily shit is pooling in the little rubber dish that is the motor mount. Took a real good look and it look like the mount was ripped, pushed down on it and a thick gooey oil started pouring out. Sooo I take it the passenger side mount is supposed to be fluid filled? Just ordered a new CPE mount cause its ripped regardless but are they supposed to be fluid filled?

yup, flooid filled indeed.

[radioflyer]

Originally Posted by tddvrrn yup, flooid filled indeed.

Suweeet. If I like this mount I'll get all 3

[tddvrrn]

Originally Posted by radioflyer Suweeet. If I like this mount I'll get all 3

that is the only mount on mine that is stock, and i modified it with some aluminum to reduce its movement.. i am surprised you don't have a RMM, they're usually the first to be replaced.

i love the car with a TMM and RMM. it just feels so much tighter, more connected.. you get the idea. motor mount upgrades in this car make such a huge difference, especially since they improve shifting, which is the one weak point i found with my stock car.

have fun!

[radioflyer]

I had the street unit RMM, and it was driving me crazy. I drive 85% solid traffic back and forth to work. The stock mounts allow you to be significantly more lazy with the clutch pedal. The OEM mount is just begging to burst again so I wanted something solid without oil in it.

[apawk]

Ordering the JBR 80a RMM today. Any thoughts/impressions about this particular one?

[viisual]

Either brilliant or incredibly stupid question incoming:


Should winter weather be included in my considerations for RMM, and if so in what regard?

--

I'm just getting into modding my MS3 and as recommended will be doing this first. I want to thank everyone who's contributed so much helpful information here, and OP for consolidating it all to the top.

I'm still not sure which brand to get; however, I do feel confident that whichever I decide upon I will likely be happier with the results than stock.

--

I haven't seen much information during my research about a Sure or a Torque RMM.

[bigriver]

Originally Posted by viisual Either brilliant or incredibly stupid question incoming: Should winter weather be included in my considerations for RMM, and if so in what regard? -- I'm just getting into modding my MS3 and as recommended will be doing this first. I want to thank everyone who's contributed so much helpful information here, and OP for consolidating it all to the top. I'm still not sure which brand to get; however, I do feel confident that whichever I decide upon I will likely be happier with the results than stock. -- I haven't seen much information during my research about a Sure or a Torque RMM.

The latter lol. Jbr dogbone if you dont mind some vibes.

[rdunny]

Great sticky. I have an mz3 and my PMM broke....AGAIN. Looking to replace it and thinking about the AWR one. Anyone who's been riding with it for awhile care to comment? I saw the post with the guy showing his broken one and the install already.

[spokelse]

just installed the CPE second generation RMM for my 2012 MS3, it was simple and there are obvious improvements as as a result and the machining of the two piece mount is really great. A very good mod BUT you need two people to install this, although it is simple, one person lines up the bolts, the other pushes the engine. This wasn't made clear in any directions. The install guide just talks about needing to fiddle with the engine a little, shows just one set of hands, etc.