The Motor Mount Thread

[RhoadBlock]

*****Thank you to @Inquisitive; for a 2015 update!******


This thread will be for discussion of motor mounts for the MS3 & MS6. All currently available mounts are listed, relative prices, & links where they can be purchased. Note: you may be able to find them for sale elsewhere, possibly for cheaper. I simply linked them to their own company's site. If you have any questions regarding mounts, want to know which duro is best for you, etc, read thru this thread first! IF and ONLY IF it has not been answered already in this thread, post your new question in this thread. Do NOT create a new one.

Most of these if you buy brand new will come with installation instructions, but if you buy used and can't figure it out, or simply want to plan ahead, How-To's may be found in here:
MS3 How-To Database
MS6 How-To Database

One of the first mods almost everybody does is the Rear Motor Mount (RMM). As well you should. The factory bushings are mediocre and allow too much movement. There is a small amount of drivetrain slop and shifting may feel a bit notchy. Upgrading the RMM stiffens up the drivetrain slop quite a bit allowing for smoother shifting for one. The Passenger Side Motor Mount (PMM) & Transmission Mount (TM) are mediocre and are big eye sores to boot. Upgrading the mounts allows for much better shifting response and handling as the engine isn't rocking or being tossed around in the bay, but it comes at the expense of some NVH. Vibrations are felt at idle, tho this can be remedied by raising idle RPM if you have an AP. Vibrations often lessen after several months/several hundred miles of breaking in.

Genpu MMs:

• JBR RMM 88 & unknown durometer
• CP-E RMM Stage 2
• JBR TMM unknown
• CorkSport RMM
• JBR PMM unknown
• JBR RMM 80
• Sure RMM TorqR3 WARNING: read http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...3/#post1927730
• JBR PMM 80
• JBR RMM 70
• Cobb RMM
• CorkSport TMM
• Damond Motorsports RMM
• JBR PMM 70 & 88
• CP-E TMM
• TRZ RMM
• CorkSport PMM
• Street Unit RMM WARNING: read http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...3/#post1927730
• Ford Electric Focus RMM (RMM part number CM5Z-6068-A; bolt W500545S900)
• Minerva PMM & TMM (probably best to avoid, see Minerva Motorwerkz? )
• Sure PMM & TMM WARNING: read http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...3/#post1927730
• AWR RMM 88
• Torque Solution RMM
• Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount
• Turbine Tech Differential Mount

Update using 2015 prices:

JBR RMM Urethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
JBR RMM Urethane MS6
MS3
JBR RMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 80a $105), MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 88a $100, 80a $125, 70a $125), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 88a $100, 80a $125, 70a $125)

CP-E RMM Stage 2 Rubber
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
CP-E RMM Stage 2 Rubber MS6
MS3
CP-E RMM Stage 2 Rubber MS3
MS6 (Yes: 70a xFlex) $139, MS3 1st Gen (Not found), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $198

JBR TMM Urethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
JBR TMM Urethane MS6
MS3
JBR TMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 80a, 70a) $175, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 88a, 80a, 70a) $185, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 88a, 80a, 70a) $185

CorkSport RMM Urethane
MS6's Insert

MS6's Full Replacement

MS3's Insert

MS3's Full Replacement

MS3's Race

Available from:
MS6
CorkSport RMM Urethane MS6
MS3
CorkSport RMM Urethane MS3 Gen1
CorkSport RMM Urethane MS3 Gen2
MS6 (Yes, Standard 70a) $115.99, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: Insert 70a $39.99, Standard 80a $99.99, Race 80a $125.99), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: Insert 70a $39.99, Standard 80a $99.99, Race 80a $125.99)

JBR PMM Urethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
JBR PMM Urethane MS6
MS3
JBR PMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 80a, 70a) $175, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 80a, 70a) $185, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 80a, 70a) $185

Cobb RMM

Available from: Cobb RMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes) $159, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $159

CorkSport TMM Insert Polyurethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
CorkSport TMM Insert Polyurethane MS6
MS3
CorkSport TMM Insert Polyurethane MS3
MS6 (Yes) $54.99, MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $39.99

Damond Motorsports RMM

Available from: Damond Motorsports RMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $145 in black or gold mount and black or red bushing

CP-E TMM

Available from: CP-E TMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes, 75a) $271.30, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes, 75a) $271.30

TRZ RMM

Available from: TRZ RMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $100

CorkSport PMM

Available from: CorkSport PMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $229.99

Ford Electric Focus RMM (RMM part number CM5Z-6068-A; bolt W500545S900)

Available from: local Ford dealership
MS6 (Not confirmed), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $43.92 + $1.10

AWR RMM Urethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
AWR RMM Urethane MS6
MS3
AWR RMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $82, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $95, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $95

AWR PMM Urethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
AWR PMM Urethane MS6
MS3
AWR PMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $172, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $172, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $172

AWR TMM Urethane
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
AWR TMM Urethane MS6
MS3
AWR TMM Urethane MS3
MS6 (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $140, MS3 1st Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $225, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes: 95a, 80a, 70a) $225

Torque Solution RMM Polyurethane

Available from: Torque Solution RMM Polyurethane MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes, 75a) $134.99, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes, 75a) $134.99

TRZ TMM

Available from: TRZ TMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $100

Damond Motorsports PMM

Available from:
Damond Motorsports PMM MS3
MS6 (Not found), MS3 1st Gen (Yes), MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $225 in black or gold mount and black or red bushing

Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount
MS6

MS3 Gen 1

MS3 Gen 2

Available from:
MS6
Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount MS6
MS3 Gen 1
Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount MS3 Gen 1
MS3 Gen 2
Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount MS3 Gen 2
MS6 (Yes) $359, MS3 1st Gen (Yes) $399, MS3 2nd Gen (Yes) $379

Turbine Tech Differential Mount

Available from: Turbine Tech Differential Mount MS6
MS6 (Yes) $289, MS3 1st Gen (Not found), MS3 2nd Gen (Not found)

[RhoadBlock]

Will tidy it up tomorrow. I may add the diff mounts for the MS6 later, but I already made a diff mount thread too. If anybody knows of any mounts I left out or any recommendations/suggestions let me know. Any grammar Nazis speak up too.

But for now, here you go.

[Raider]

Badass! Nice work!

Corksport has rmm inserts for ms3.
CORKSPORT Rear Motor Mount Insert For Mazdaspeed 3

[Jake5713]

Well done!!


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.955562,-93.271084
-Jake

[TiGraySpeed6]

Nice job Rhoad!

Didn't see the RMM that I have installed-
the StreetUnit original-

MAZDASPEED 6 Motor Mount

[AtTheDriveIn]

Tt makes a front engine mount for the gen one ms3.

[MS3inDC]

I haz vibezzzzzzzzz

[RhoadBlock]

Updated.

I added a bit of general info on upgrading the mounts to the OP. I'd like to get some discussion going on their reviews of the mounts. How was install? How is NVH now? How is NVH after the mount has been broken in? How much of an improvement was the mount/mounts to you?

It's great to have all the available mounts listed, but newbs are still gonna be asking "Which one is best?" etc. Let's get some feedback going so we don't have to keep seeing new Mount Threads popping up.

[p057]

Originally Posted by RhoadBlock "Which one is best?"

[wankular]

I would add a sidenote about using red loctite for the CPE trans mount, in case anyone buys a used one without instructions. Avoid that whole fiasco again.

Any info on engine dampers (NRG, Ignalls, etc)?

As far as reviews, I have the original Street Unit RMM. After 1000 miles it was broken in and never really vibrated too much even from day one.

Edit: The TRZ MS3 rmm is available in two bushings - poly (street) and delrin (track). Also, if you run a Turbine Tech MS3 front mount, you probably won't be able to fit a FMIC.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Originally Posted by wankular As far as reviews, I have the original Street Unit RMM. After 1000 miles it was broken in and never really vibrated too much even from day one.

I'd offer the exact same review about my SU RMM as well, adding only that it simply did it's job and improved shifting quite a bit by controlling engine movement.

[daztdMS6]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 I'd offer the exact same review about my SU RMM as well, adding only that it simply did it's job and improved shifting quite a bit by controlling engine movement.

+1 on what Ti said. Vibs are not noticable, but it controls the engine movement and improves shifting.

[RhoadBlock]

Originally Posted by wankular I would add a sidenote about using red loctite for the CPE trans mount, in case anyone buys a used one without instructions. Avoid that whole fiasco again. Any info on engine dampers (NRG, Ignalls, etc)? As far as reviews, I have the original Street Unit RMM. After 1000 miles it was broken in and never really vibrated too much even from day one. Edit: The TRZ MS3 rmm is available in two bushings - poly (street) and delrin (track). Also, if you run a Turbine Tech MS3 front mount, you probably won't be able to fit a FMIC.

I don't recall any of that fiasco. Wasn't MS6 related so I didn't pay much attention to it. Shoot me a link to a good thread on it so I can catch up and mention it in the OP.

Also, I don't know anything about the engine dampers you speak of. I can haz infoes pleeze?

[Raider]

Originally Posted by RhoadBlock I don't recall any of that fiasco. Wasn't MS6 related so I didn't pay much attention to it. Shoot me a link to a good thread on it so I can catch up and mention it in the OP. Also, I don't know anything about the engine dampers you speak of. I can haz infoes pleeze?

cp-eTM xFlex Engine Mounts Recommendations and Notes

[TheRealDefman]

Originally Posted by wankular I would add a sidenote about using red loctite for the CPE trans mount, in case anyone buys a used one without instructions. Avoid that whole fiasco again.

They have also started including a thin metal backing plate that will physically prevent the bolts from backing out. Between that and red Loctite those bolts aren't going anywhere!! If you don't have the plate I'll bet you can get one from them cheaply, if not free. Or go to a metal shop and get one fabbed up.


Reviews and thoughts on the MM's I've used.
TRZ RMM & TMM: I had these on my '08, put them both on at the same time so I can't speak directly on one or the other. TONS of noise & vibes. Seriously, I thought we'd F'd something up royally!! I got used to the vibes & noise, but never much liked it.

CorkSport RMM Inserts: Probably better than folks give them credit for being. Got light mod's and don't want noise & vibes? Get these, you can find 'em used for $20-30. I had them on my Stage 2 car for several weeks without any troubles.

JBR RMM Billet in 80 duro: Quite a bit of vibes, I didn't like it. The bolt that came with mine (it was a lightly used piece) was only a Grade 2 bolt and snapped before I got to the recommended 120#, spend an extra $4 and get a Grade 8 bolt. Mine also seemed to fit a bit loose and clunked when I went on/off throttle. I checked the bolts numerous times and they were all tight. *EDIT* See JBR response below. I did buy mine used and the bolt I got was definitely a Grade 2 bolt, seller may have done a switcharoo on me.

CP-e 60 TMM & 75 RMM: I had the TMM for one day before I got the RMM. VERY nice piece, vibes & noise non-existent. RMM I got was used and already broken in, again it's a super nice piece with little to no noise & vibes. Want top shelf quality and can deal with very slight (if any??) vibes & noise? Get these. If/When I swap the passenger side MM, I won't won't look at anything other than the CP-e piece! My ONLY complaint, there wasn't a sticker in the box to put on my toolbox!!

CP-e Stage 2 RMM: I had the Stage-1 75 duro mount in my car for a while, but still was getting some nasty wheel-hop. I found a new-open-box Stage 2 on another site that I got a good deal on. I've only made a couple of pulls but my wheel-hop seems gone now. The Stage-2 RMM does add some vibes & noise over the Stage-1 mount, but still less than I found on competitor's urethane based RMM's, I suspect they'll settle some with use.

[AtTheDriveIn]

If anyone can snag the Turbine Tech products for a good price, do it. They are top quality so you get what you pay for. I have the front engine mount for the MS6, and now my engine and I are one. Shift thump, gone.

[atvfreek]

I have cs Rmm inserts and they work pretty good. Basically no additional vibes.

I also just purchased a jbr 80 duro and took it out after 150 miles. A little too harsh for my taste and DD. Might through it back in and try breaking it some to see, but for now the cs inserts it is.

Tappin

[2011speed]

Originally Posted by atvfreek I have cs Rmm inserts and they work pretty good. Basically no additional vibes. I also just purchased a jbr 80 duro and took it out after 150 miles. A little too harsh for my taste and DD. Might through it back in and try breaking it some to see, but for now the cs inserts it is. Tappin

any better shift feel with just the inserts?

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by 2011speed any better shift feel with just the inserts?

Much better than stock. With the inserts we got a video of my car on the dyno, and the motor didnt move at all. I'm sure a hard shift or launch it'll move. But for DD and some spirited driving the inserts work great

[gyoku2006@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by atvfreek I have cs Rmm inserts and they work pretty good. Basically no additional vibes. I also just purchased a jbr 80 duro and took it out after 150 miles. A little too harsh for my taste and DD. Might through it back in and try breaking it some to see, but for now the cs inserts it is. Tappin

there, cs inserts

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by nicholas.oday I will have to disagree, seeing as how the previous post mentions nothing about the CS inserts. Additionally, I completely understand the arguments made regarding "the higher the better" in terms of DM count. However, and I feel this bears reiterating so someone can offer a HELPFUL opinion, I am on the highway the majority of the time and only occasionally put my foot in the car. I am prepared to replace the RMM (or go the CS inserts route) and I would like to hear from anyone who might have had experience in both, and what their driving impressions were. I have read through this thread in detail (I ain't got shit else to do right now - my left knee is toast and I'm counting money I haven't made yet) and I have to say, unless I missed someone's post earlier about the two specific solutions I discussed, I'd say I satisfied my duty in reading. Just saying

Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com there, cs inserts

The CS inserts are actually very good for what they are. Very good feel, and it will take care of that little bump you feel between shifts. For the money, you can't go wrong. Only reason I upgraded was because I do some track days and wanted something a little more heavy duty (although the inserts probably would've done fine)

[Mizzle]

There's a MS6 thing mixed in with the MS3 stuff.

[RhoadBlock]

@Mizzle It's gotta be a mixed up link cause everything else is good, no? Which link was screwy?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mizzle]

Bushing - Engine Mount Replacement - 2.0inch - AWR Racing Store

after AWR PMM

[RhoadBlock]

I was a retard last night. Def looked right over that. The bushings fit the MS6 too, but I changed the link to read MS3 instead of MS6.

[p057]

getting the RMM finally for my MS6.

cannot decide whether to get 70 or 88 Duro for the AWR RMM. I'd like effectiveness, but without rattling my teeth out.

[TiGraySpeed6]

reference point- stock rmm duro is about -10 (yes, minus ten)
used bubble gum would work better.

based on your selections and criteria, get the 70.
-however-
if you drive like an animal (LC & FFS, drag or autocross), and you can raise your idle a bit (if you haven't already), get the 88.

[p057]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 reference point- stock rmm duro is about -10 (yes, minus ten) used bubble gum would work better. based on your selections and criteria, get the 70. -however- if you drive like an animal (LC & FFS, drag or autocross), and you can raise your idle a bit (if you haven't already), get the 88.

88 it is.

Yeah my idle is raised a fuck-ton to try and combat smoking.... doesn't really help but i like the idle anyways.

[p057]

Originally Posted by p057 88 it is. Yeah my idle is raised a fuck-ton to try and combat smoking.... doesn't really help but i like the idle anyways.

Installed RMM on friday. but i accidentally hit my hand with a hammer and i had a huge blood blister thing right between my thumb and index finger. Should have taken an hour at tops, took two since the damn blister was painfully in the way.


Also, i bought the AWR RMM. You HAVE to cut off those stupid prongs. I tried bending them away and that resulted in a ton of fail. (one of the ends of the prongs are welded on.) Pulled out my multi-tool and cut the metal away in less time than it took to debate whether or not to keep bending/prying vs cutting. That metal is relatively soft.

Once that was put in, put everything back up and drove it down the road. LOVED it. soooo smooth. and NVH was NOTHING. I mean, the tiny ass amount of vibes was so little. I am really disappointed that people were telling me to go softer. too soft.

Seriously, pussy. Now that i put 60 miles on it, i barely feel it anymore and i kinda wish i went with a higher durometer count than that...

As far as the mount itself, if you really feel that you dont care (and have the means) about cutting the prong-things at the frame and would like to save a few bucks, go the AWR mount route. get a higher durometer count. 88 is really just minimum you should go at all. i would love to jump up to 95 DM

Other than that, go the sure/cpe/SU RMM route... it's brain-dead easy.

[We Are Ninja]

Originally Posted by p057 ...Once that was put in, put everything back up and drove it down the road. LOVED it. soooo smooth. and NVH was NOTHING. I mean, the tiny ass amount of vibes was so little. I am really disappointed that people were telling me to go softer. too soft. Seriously, pussy. Now that i put 60 miles on it, i barely feel it anymore and i kinda wish i went with a higher durometer count than that... As far as the mount itself, if you really feel that you dont care (and have the means) about cutting the prong-things at the frame and would like to save a few bucks, go the AWR mount route. get a higher durometer count. 88 is really just minimum you should go at all. i would love to jump up to 95 DM ...

I ran 95 durometer motor mounts all the way around in my old MSP (RIP) and vibrations were pronounced, but not insane. Definitely not bad enough to offset the dramatic improvement in response and feel. I had gotten the weight down to around 2750 lbs... The MS3 is around 400 lbs heavier, and the MS6 is approximately 800 lbs heavier... I can't see the vibes being that harsh at all; especially in the MS6.

[karl-hungus]

gold star! go trz if you're okay with vibes. the ladies will thank you.

[TiGraySpeed6]

sounds like time for the bnoon bolt.

when I was running the oem dp I consistently whined about not wanting to take a chance on starving the turbo of oil. Amazing how going catless and becoming the city mosquito fogging service can changes your perceptions and attitudes on such things......

some due diligence later, i was unable to find any reports of oil starvation, or any damage for that matter, as a result of using the bolt. Indeed, I learned that the specs bnoon uses are considered to be standard for many turbos.

After installing the bolt, I've been able to drop my idle to 850 and still have about 98% of my smoking issue resolved. I am a fan, and encourage it's use when needed.

[wankular]

The only thing I really know about ETD's is that they are usually only compatible with stock passenger mounts.

Here is a link to one on Street Unit:
Stiffy ETD, 2004-09 Mazda 3 & Mazdaspeed3

[RhoadBlock]

Originally Posted by wankular The only thing I really know about ETD's is that they are usually only compatible with stock passenger mounts. Here is a link to one on Street Unit: Stiffy ETD, 2004-09 Mazda 3 & Mazdaspeed3

mmmm....after looking at it I don't really like it. You'd be better off with just upgrading the mount itself with the the lower duro bushings if you're still worried about NVH. Especially for the price. Plus this is the mount thread, not the goofy engine damper thread lol.

Has an IRL person ever bought one for the MS3?? If we find one person who has I'll add it to the OP. Until then I won't worry about it. I've never even heard of it and I've been around the DISI forums for 5 years now.

If someone really wants it there tho, let me know. I'll put it in OP.

[goob_os101]

Guess I neeed to hit up the gym...I could not get the three bolts off to install my CP-e RMM yesterday. I may have torn my nut sakz.

[Raider]

Air tools are so much win. Took forever installing the RMM on my MS3, the 3 bolts had 332545342 lbs of torque at the factory. In installing a RMM on an MS3 the other day, impact gun bussed them off in .23 seconds.

Take it to a mechanic, pay $10 for it to go up on a lift and have them removed with impact, then torqued to 70 lbs, or just have them install the mount, using blue loctite on the bolt threads at reinstall.

[goob_os101]

^ Since I am a Army Civilian I can go over to the Ft. Myer Auto Shop...$6/hr for lift and all tools you need. I put coilovers on my old Saabaru for $12

[RhoadBlock]

Damn I would KILL to have a good shop around here that rents lifts/tools. I've got the tools but I need a lift so bad. Would make my build a million times easier. But every shop I've asked won't rent lifts for liability/insurance reasons. But damn they'd make a killing off myself alone if they did.

[goob_os101]

Ft. Myer is a Army base here in Arlington, VA. I work for the Army as a civilian so I have access to the base's auto shop.

[IshiKage]

@RhoadBlock
you forgot to add the Torque Solution RMM, they are coming with the other mounts too. Love my TS. can be bought through MAPerformance