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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Mods, please move to the appropriate forum if necessary. And not sure what is up with the thread title, it was a long day. Ok, you may have seen it before elsewhere, but probably not for our specific application and with current filter technology, so here is some good information for ya. At NATOR today I started talking about oil filters, their construction, and some pros and cons of the different brands (In high school I was using Fram, because I was cheap After an oil change I took off the filter, and the thing rattled like a Maraca, and wasn't even filtering. To find out why I took it apart, which led to cracking damn near every filter I could get my hands on). One thing led to another and I busted out the grinder to show and tell to live it all over again. I just happened to have several oil filters to compare, and below are the results. I dissected a STP, Purolator PureONE (Thanks @TRSpeed ), OEM Mazda, OEM honda Motorcycle and NAPA Silver. Check out the findings. First the STP (AKA AC Delco,) made by Champion Labs. I would not recommend this filter. It uses Nitrile rubber (which is more likely to break down when exposed to high heat, turbo applications anyone?) for its combination Bypass Valve and Anti-Drainback Valve. Also the leaf spring keeping the Paper Media filter in place was very weak. The fins were spaced apart in some locations and compressed in others. Also the fiber board on both ends was easily pried off. Looks like poor quality control. Next is the Purolator PureONE. This is a better filter. It uses a denser Synthetic filter media that used crimped metal to hold it together, which was removed by flicking with my finger, and has a Silicon Anti-Drainback valve (holds up better) and a spring loaded Bypass valve located in the base of the filter. One difference treated rubber gasket, which is supposed to seal better and is supposed to be easier to install, but come on, how hard is it to install a filter. It still uses a leaf spring, which I just do not like. The can was coated in a slip resistant cover, but it was a much thinner wall, my grinder went though it like butter. Next was OEM Mazda. (Made by Tennex when built in USA, Toyo Roko if made in Japan.) This filter was near identical to the Purolator filter. Only difference is the Anti-Drainback valve, was a internal spring and a ball type valve, and non treated gasket. Uses a Rubber bypass valve, and is the same for all 3's NA 2.0 etc. Still used stiff leaf spring. (This filter did work, there was sparkly crap in the fins.) Next was an OEM Honda Motorcycle Filter. (Don't mind the box) I just wanted to show a different type of construction. Notice the 4 pronged leaf spring attached to the Anti-Drainback Valve. Also the fiber caps on the filter media. The gasket is cool though. Finally the Napa Silver. (Gold is similar but if I am not mistaken has Silicone instead of Rubber bypass gasket) Made by Dana/Wix. Notice the strong coil spring instead of the leafs. The Anti-Drainback valve is located on the top of the filter. All around in my opinion the best filter. Some food for thought, The K&N is the same as the Mobil 1 but is usually a couple bucks cheaper. You are paying for a nut, fun fact, made by Champion Labs (same as STP but better quality). It still has a leaf spring and a rubber drainback valve. The bypass valve is in the same location as the Napa. Do your car a favor and stay away from Fram, or anything made by Honeywell (MotorMaster, Pennzoil, Quaker State) That filter is just Chaos, and that is what started this interest in filters. As far as what filter is good for us? I say Napa Gold hands down, just a great filter. It is reasonably priced and goes on sale very couple months (about $5 a piece). I would not use the Silver, or Pro Select in our application due to the Rubber Valve, as well as Gold having a superior center tube and more filter media. Plus the Pro Select is pretty expensive. If Napa is not available in your area you could possibly go with the following. (Not tested personally yet, so no promises) Baldwin, Ryco, Wix, Penske, CarQuest, and Castrol. Although their base lines are rubber not Silicon, easy way to find out, look at the bottom, if the Bypas Valve (the part that is inside the filter visible through the holes) is Orange (or any other color) it is Silicon, black = Rubber. ( I plan on ripping apart a CarQuest next time I go to Walmart, since that is where we usually get out oil anyway, would be nice to save a trip and a couple $$) For all you Amsoil lovers, they recommend WIX filters as well. Hope you found this useful, it was fun making sparks. @Hamilton69 More notes on post #13, #14, and #23. |
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to UnknownSuperhero For This Useful Post: | ChaunceyM (11-18-2013), dvswimer (01-02-2018), jbrowntown (12-30-2016), meicalnissyen (01-24-2015), Weazsel (11-25-2012) |
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| Comprehensive Oil Filter Dissection Thread - RX7Club.com | This thread | Refback | 09-07-2013 04:55 PM | |
| Comprehensive Oil Filter Dissection Thread - RX7Club.com | This thread | Refback | 09-01-2013 12:07 AM | |
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