Injector seals solution.

[phate]

Originally Posted by aviator79 I am picking mine up today and will be pulling IM tonight and doing this over the weekend.

Can you grab some pictures of the stockers next to the Toyota ones?

Edit: Not such a huge deal. Just checked the OP and there was a pic there comparing them!

[aviator79]

what happens if one of my injectors gets stuck? Make a removal tool I guess? We will see tonight...:

[pzr2874]

Badass substitute OP... nice looking out

[mrmonk7663]

Replacing seals does suck, but its not too terribly bad, just annoying and a little time consuming...especially when you button up the car only to realize you didn't plug in the injector harnesses!!!

Originally Posted by silvapain Still on stock seals here, too. I'm interested in these seals, but replacing them is a job I'd want to do just once. Tapadatass

[pzr2874]

^LOL

[aviator79]

I installed them. My stock seals were fine it seems. These do look like they are better than stock. Mine were not brass, they were aluminum I guess. I replaced Torx with studs as recommended and cut dimpled washers off torx to reuse. Knowing the torque spec for the toyota’s might be useful but I have no torque wrench. But I can imagine someone could over torque and crack a crowsfoot. Wish I had bought an extra so I could have seen how much they crush. For $8 they look like they will do the job.

[spnkr21]

Haha. This is awesome. I hope it works.

[daztdMS6]

How did you get the injectors out Aviator? Did you use the CP-e tool or did you use your girly fingers to extract them out?

[mrmonk7663]

I would not attempt this without an injector removal tool on hand. All 4 of mine were stuck solid, and it took at least 5 hard slide hammer bulls to break them out. Something else to try is spray WD40 around the bottom of injector under crowsfeet and let sit for 10 minutes.

[driver311]

Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 I would not attempt this without an injector removal tool on hand. All 4 of mine were stuck solid, and it took at least 5 hard slide hammer bulls to break them out. Something else to try is spray WD40 around the bottom of injector under crowsfeet and let sit for 10 minutes.

Wierd mine slid right out of my 9k motor.

[mrmonk7663]

Lucky!!!

Originally Posted by driver311 Wierd mine slid right out of my 9k motor.

[Nataphen]

I'd definitely want to get some sort of torque specs on them, but other than that, they look like they'd work great for high power applications. What fuel pressure did the Toyota diesels with these run? Probably a lot more than our measly ~2000.

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by daztdMS6 How did you get the injectors out Aviator? Did you use the CP-e tool or did you use your girly fingers to extract them out?

I used a pry tool to pop them loose and then sprayed a bit of lube under them and then they will twist loose as you pull them. Had electrical tape on the tip so didnt damage them when I popped them. Damaged the first one because I didnt realize all I had to do was spray lube and twist lose.
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...g-sits-106942/

Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 I would not attempt this without an injector removal tool on hand.

Probably a good idea.

[TiGraySpeed6]

waiting on the words:

"They WORK & I'm happy with the results! Go ahead & order yours now!"

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by aviator79 I am picking mine up today and will be pulling IM tonight and doing this over the weekend.

How did they work out? Now that my 6 is running, i have more time to wrench on the 3, and it needs seals bad. I may throw em on sooner than later.

[dougefresh_]

In for Irish cock ring on the cheap

[pzr2874]

^Didn't know you were Irish...


Bump for ANY results...

[superskaterxes]

@qtrmile beast

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by pzr2874 ^Didn't know you were Irish...

1/2 Irish, 1/2 Italian, 1/2 Mexican. Nah, I am a euro mutt though.... mostly Irish/Italian with a sprinkle of French, Danish, & Gestapo.

[MS6FL]

1/2 plus 1/2 plus 1/2????

[Tokay444]

That's 150% mother fucker.

[Enki]

Psst...He's really Russian.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by MS6FL 1/2 plus 1/2 plus 1/2????

1:30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIjiwvY2F-0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIjiwvY2F-0

Originally Posted by Tokay444 That's 150% mother fucker.

^This!

[MS6FL]

hahahahahahahaha!!!!!!! Damn, compleatly forgot that scene! Love that movie!

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 waiting on the words: "They WORK & I'm happy with the results! Go ahead & order yours now!"

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn How did they work out? Now that my 6 is running, i have more time to wrench on the 3, and it needs seals bad. I may throw em on sooner than later.

They work. Buy them from your local toyata dealer. Only cost me $8. I havent driven the car yet but I will...I will. Hooked up Synapse BOV and was Ts. Had to order a bung 1/8 npt to 3/16 barb and will have the bung welded onto CPE FMIC hotpipe for boost only source as I have the old synapse. Wanted to buy a new one but this will work fine. I got some Ts and for now I just Td into WG again so I will drive to work tomorrow.

Anyways, I could feel them crush a couple of thousanths so I know they worked. Like I said, the next person, order 5 and if you have a micrometer or calipers measure before and after, if not just post an after pic to show hom much they crush. 50-60ftlbs and you will see they probably flatten right out. Ive no idea what I tighted to so that is just a guess...Ive never used a torqe wrench and have never had an issues but I have worked on cars for a while and had a job repairing spindles so I have an OK idea of how much force to use. Im not DJ, but I know how to wrench on stuff.

I have no way to monitor as my spare DH cable disappeared and I just sold the one I was using with the DH EGT probe. I just got an AP as I just removed my SB and am trying to figure out how to use it. Well I havent tired yet actually. I figure I should hook up the AP to monitor some stuff but am unfarmiliar how to do that and if you can only do logs it wont allow me to see what is going on while I am driving so not that usefull. I will probably just take it easy as I ordered OBD connectors and DH plugs to make a few spare DH cables.

There that was my long usseless unimformative reply. Now I go home and play with car.

[J-Liss]

ORDER NAO BEFORE BACKORDER!

[dougefresh_]

ORDER NOW BEFORE ST. PATTY'S DAY RUSH!!

[aviator79]

Car drove great on the way to work today. Synapse BOV hooked up and working so I am happy. Valves all clean so my car is happy. Seals upgraded so now I have no worries about them failing and I saved $172.

[J-Liss]

WOW CP-E just got f'ed.

<3 the MSF community.

[Death-From-A-Mile]

Purchased, because 120+ is a lot....I bought 12.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Car drove great on the way to work today. Synapse BOV hooked up and working so I am happy. Valves all clean so my car is happy. Seals upgraded so now I have no worries about them failing and I saved $172.

how much PSI and load are you generating on those? And lets not forget it takes some time at higher cylinder pressure to work the OE seals lose. Not trying to be negative just realistic

I hope to have mine installed sometime this month or next.

[abiezerf]

Subbed. I have a fairly high amount of gray smoke come out the exhaust after I go WOT sometimes. Could this be blow seals?

[TiGraySpeed6]

most likely that's a negative-
Blown seals are usually found by high amounts of false KR, funny popping sound by the injectors, and a loss of power, even a slight fuel smell.

gray smoke from exhaust mid-shift I'm pretty sure is usually the result of going rich during shift.

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by J-Liss WOW CP-E just got f'ed. <3 the MSF community.

Well lets see. They kind of fucked everyone that bought the standback, but that’s not really their fault. There was no AP when I bought the SB. But discontinuing it made the decision easy to pull it and switch to the AP. Thank god I never had my ECU flashed as I would have had to pay them to unflash it.

Also, they advertise the CPE dual catback as “quiet”:
Well, after innumerable requests, cp-e™ has finally developed a quiet, full 3” stainless steel dual outlet exhaust system for the SPEED6!
I could not stand it. Sold it, put my OEM back on. Just bought a MF catback so hopefully that will be better. And at $444 shipped it’s a pretty good deal. Paid CPE $800 (GB price when if first came out about 10 months late) + shipping + had to ship it back to have them weld in the resonator that they left out, but is on the sound clip they use as advertisement and pay them $100…

They sell the seals for way too much as they HAD the market cornered. If you have not already, go to the first post and thank @paveltol for providing this info to us.

Anyways, there are certain things I liked about CPE, but im not as huge of a fan as I was back in the day. Im just happy that they are not the only place I can buy parts these days. Just don’t let them know about these seals or they will buy out the market (would not be surprised if they did this) then resell them for $20 a piece or just throw them out so they could continue to sell the SAFE SEALZ!

Originally Posted by Dano how much PSI and load are you generating on those? And lets not forget it takes some time at higher cylinder pressure to work the OE seals lose. Not trying to be negative just realistic I hope to have mine installed sometime this month or next.

As I stated here:
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ml#post1296196
the OEMs are conical with a rubber like coating on them which get squished to create the seal. This coating could shear off over time causing them to fail, however a crush washer will not fail over time. IMO these will work fine.

Again, the only thing I was worried about was not being able to properly clean the surface in the injector mounting hole on the engine that the crush washer would be sealing against. You can clean the injector, but there is no easy way to clean this surface. It looked like some rubber from the OEMs was left behind, but hopefully it was nothing that would cause a problem. This is the only reason I can see that would cause these to not seal.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Just a few minutes ago I started looking for a set to order-
called my local Toyota dealer, who tells me that while this is the correct part number (11177-64010), but that they are no longer made or available, and that there are none in country according to their system.

This is only one counter guy, at a single Toy dealer, so do not consider this gospel.

The parts guy suggested contacting local parts places to see about ordering an aftermarket version, and I'm also looking online.

Again, this is only one counter guy, at a single Toy dealer, so do not consider this gospel....


-edit to add my local NAPA couldn't find them under the toyota number, and couldn't cross reference anything in the US.

-edit #2- second dealer, this one in Georgia (Thomasville), confirmed none in the southeast US, far as he could tell there are none in the US.

[Easter Bunny]

CPE beat us to them?

or PTP bought them all so he can claim he thought of it first and invented them all.

[TiGraySpeed6]

placed order with Toyota Parts Zone, we'll see how this goes...

11177-64010 - OEM Toyota GASKET, INJECTION NO

[djuosnteisn]

easter beat me to it, lolol.

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Well lets see. They kind of fucked everyone that bought the standback, but that’s not really their fault. There was no AP when I bought the SB. But discontinuing it made the decision easy to pull it and switch to the AP. Thank god I never had my ECU flashed as I would have had to pay them to unflash it. Also, they advertise the CPE dual catback as “quiet”: Well, after innumerable requests, cp-e™ has finally developed a quiet, full 3” stainless steel dual outlet exhaust system for the SPEED6! I could not stand it. Sold it, put my OEM back on. Just bought a MF catback so hopefully that will be better. And at $444 shipped it’s a pretty good deal. Paid CPE $800 (GB price when if first came out about 10 months late) + shipping + had to ship it back to have them weld in the resonator that they left out, but is on the sound clip they use as advertisement and pay them $100… They sell the seals for way too much as they HAD the market cornered. If you have not already, go to the first post and thank @paveltol for providing this info to us. Anyways, there are certain things I liked about CPE, but im not as huge of a fan as I was back in the day. Im just happy that they are not the only place I can buy parts these days. Just don’t let them know about these seals or they will buy out the market (would not be surprised if they did this) then resell them for $20 a piece or just throw them out so they could continue to sell the SAFE SEALZ! As I stated here: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ml#post1296196 the OEMs are conical with a rubber like coating on them which get squished to create the seal. This coating could shear off over time causing them to fail, however a crush washer will not fail over time. IMO these will work fine. Again, the only thing I was worried about was not being able to properly clean the surface in the injector mounting hole on the engine that the crush washer would be sealing against. You can clean the injector, but there is no easy way to clean this surface. It looked like some rubber from the OEMs was left behind, but hopefully it was nothing that would cause a problem. This is the only reason I can see that would cause these to not seal.

I fucking like this guy.

You've got a touch of the sharp British whit.

[Kydizzle]

Gay.. how the fuck are they all gone!