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| Trail of Fail ![]() Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: rock city AR
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would imagine any ST IM will be the same.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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![]() | | #122 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Most of the time i remote start my car so it can warm up a bit before i drive. This way i never have to worry about it's affects while driving (That and i fucking love a warm car in winter). When i dont have time for that i just blip the throttle while cranking to bypass cold start. You dont have to wait for the motor to catch for the bypass to work so there is no worry of revving it up cold. The cold start stumble can also cause a p300 misfire pending code if you always start it from a cold state. I think the only reason it stumbles is because the ecu is expecting the behavior of the VTCS system. The FOST dosent have one so the ecu isn't coded for a VTCS start up so no stumble. It probably runs pig rich to get the cats up to temp like most cars.
__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra |
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![]() | | #123 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My car doesn't stumble on cold start when it's warm out. Usually give it a minute or two to warm up when it's cooler out. I'd imagine you can tune out the stumble with some of the cold start tables.
__________________ Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141 Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC VersaTuner = Versatune Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals PTE = JB 5862 JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete Forge = V2 BPV Tial = 44mm WG Autotech = HPFP Internals HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs Grimmspeed = EBCS Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38 Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings |
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![]() | | #125 | ![]() |
| Trail of Fail ![]() Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: rock city AR
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just to clarify, and like Tomas said, it has no problems starting or idling. Cold start logic runs as expected. It starts and idles just like a car with VTCS. It's only when you start moving (apply load to the motor) - opening the throttle plate slightly - that the stumble occurs. hard to explain I guess. Just crack the TP and the roughness occurs, just a cunt hair past that all is good again. I haven't tried tuning it out due to the difficulty in doing so since the car only does it for literally 2 minutes lol. If I lived in a cold climate it would probably be too much to deal with and I'd just let the car idle for 5 minutes before driving it. anyway I guess this is OT but wanted to clarify. Tappin
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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![]() | | #126 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is there a kit for the TMICs yet? I reckon it's only some tubing required to replace the silicone elbow between the coldpipe and TB when in its normal position with a longer tube and about the same elbow but lower in the engine bay. Or it's more difficult than that?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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![]() | | #127 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I live in a cold climate but on a back road where I can just drive slow as it warms up. I dont like to let car sit to warm up so I just start and go. Still want to install my ST mani but cant afford the $300 price for the kit. Need job.
__________________ MS6 - BNRs3 - Cobb AP - JBR Tru-3.0 - Spearco FMIC - MAC EBCS - Synapse BOV - DNP - CPE DP->MF - SU RRM - TTFMM - TT + CPE Diff Mounts - Mrlilguy HPFP - Projector HID fogs - TSX projector retrofit - LI jammers - Advan RZs w/ 245 PSSs - Koni - WL RSB |
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![]() | | #128 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I second Mituc....what is happening with the TMIC version??
__________________ COBB AP : JBR 3 Inch Full Intake : CORKSPORT TMIC : AUTOTECH INTERNALS : JBR SSP CPE Full RMM : Cobb Catted DOWNPIPE : BNR S3 : KW V1 Coilovers : Klutch SL18 Rims Guardian Angel : Stratified 3 Port : Michelin PSS 235/40/18 : SNOW PERFORMANCE : E85 Stratified Tune |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score More like what is happening with the PI version??
__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 5doorsoffury For This Useful Post: | AwAfrican (10-08-2016) |
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@Farhan@DM, any plans for adding a TMIC kit to the existing kit?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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![]() | | #131 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Don't have a timeline for a TMIC version. However, I think 5doors might have figured it out for you.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What I need for the cold pipe section if I go with JBR UnderRouting Pipe + TR8 Core ... and Damond ST Intake Manifold
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 |
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I can get a specific list later, but that's roughly what you'll need.
__________________ True Red 2009 MS3 Damond Motorsports: RMM // Short Shift Plate Suspension: Koni Yellows // Swift Spec-r springs // Fatcat motorsports front bump stops // Rear Camber Arms Brakes: Hawk HPS pads // ATE Superblue fluid // Stainless Steel Brake Lines Other: CP-e Safe Seals // MattDamond shift plate // Masonvi shift knob // 3.5" WP w/recirc // RSB // IM + TB tigs // Synapse Engineering FMIC + BOV // Autotech internals Tune: hypnotic tuned Critical Stats: // 305whp/352tq // 13.34 @ 98 - Mason Dixon Dragway - 4/13/14 Titanium Gray 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Damond Motorsports: OCC // Short shift plate // Turbo oil feed restrictor bolt Other: Autotech internals // Ebay M2 DP // Masonvi shift knob // | |
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![]() | | #134 | ![]() |
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thanks
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 | |
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![]() | | #135 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score - 2.75" to 2.5" silicone reducer: Tube Reducer - 1' 90* aluminum bend: Aluminum Pipe - Mishimoto silicone tap for methanol: https://www.mishimoto.com/2-5-silico...-npt-bung.html - 1' straight pipe: Aluminum Pipe - BPV T-in silicone joiner: Silicone BOV T - 1' 90* aluminum bend: Aluminum Pipe - 90* silicone bend: Silicone 90 - Coupler joiner: DIY Intercooler Piping - 2.5" bump coupler: Turbo Coupler You can sub out the meth tap for a straight silicone section or another hump coupler. This list also assumes your BPV/BOV has a 1" or 1.25" pipe style fitting? for the T-in silicone section, not a normal mazdaspeed flange. This list is in order from throttle body to cold side of the intercooler. Provided you have a gen2, you'll have zero rubbing.
__________________ Official CatDickRacing Sales Rep - All products backordered. Last edited by neganox; 05-02-2017 at 10:32 AM. |
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__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 | |
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![]() | | #137 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I know JBR can sell you a BPV adapter if you're stuck with a mazdaspeed flange. I believe they'll fit the 1.25" T-in coupler, but you'll need to double check with them for sizing.
__________________ Official CatDickRacing Sales Rep - All products backordered. |
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__________________ COBB AP : JBR 3 Inch Full Intake : CORKSPORT TMIC : AUTOTECH INTERNALS : JBR SSP CPE Full RMM : Cobb Catted DOWNPIPE : BNR S3 : KW V1 Coilovers : Klutch SL18 Rims Guardian Angel : Stratified 3 Port : Michelin PSS 235/40/18 : SNOW PERFORMANCE : E85 Stratified Tune | |
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