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 Old 10-01-2016, 09:56 AM   #121
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this exactly with my setup. Even in summer 95* outside the 1st 2-3 minutes of driving you can't hold the throttle just off idle without it stumbling. you have to really give it some gas (=more airflow) to get past it. Its all in the tumble, or lack thereof. I've often thought about PNPing an OEM intake and reinstalling the VTCS system. but meh it's an (almost) daily driven racecar so not worth the effort.

I would imagine any ST IM will be the same.
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 Old 10-01-2016, 05:40 PM   #122
 
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Most of the time i remote start my car so it can warm up a bit before i drive. This way i never have to worry about it's affects while driving (That and i fucking love a warm car in winter). When i dont have time for that i just blip the throttle while cranking to bypass cold start.

You dont have to wait for the motor to catch for the bypass to work so there is no worry of revving it up cold.

The cold start stumble can also cause a p300 misfire pending code if you always start it from a cold state.

I think the only reason it stumbles is because the ecu is expecting the behavior of the VTCS system. The FOST dosent have one so the ecu isn't coded for a VTCS start up so no stumble. It probably runs pig rich to get the cats up to temp like most cars.
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 Old 10-01-2016, 07:47 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
Its all in the tumble.
IT'S ALL IN THE MOTHERFUCKING TUMBLE
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 Old 10-02-2016, 08:27 AM   #124
 
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My car doesn't stumble on cold start when it's warm out. Usually give it a minute or two to warm up when it's cooler out.

I'd imagine you can tune out the stumble with some of the cold start tables.
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 Old 10-02-2016, 11:16 AM   #125
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Just to clarify, and like Tomas said, it has no problems starting or idling. Cold start logic runs as expected. It starts and idles just like a car with VTCS. It's only when you start moving (apply load to the motor) - opening the throttle plate slightly - that the stumble occurs. hard to explain I guess. Just crack the TP and the roughness occurs, just a cunt hair past that all is good again. I haven't tried tuning it out due to the difficulty in doing so since the car only does it for literally 2 minutes lol.

If I lived in a cold climate it would probably be too much to deal with and I'd just let the car idle for 5 minutes before driving it.

anyway I guess this is OT but wanted to clarify.



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 Old 10-07-2016, 01:59 PM   #126
 
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Is there a kit for the TMICs yet? I reckon it's only some tubing required to replace the silicone elbow between the coldpipe and TB when in its normal position with a longer tube and about the same elbow but lower in the engine bay. Or it's more difficult than that?
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 Old 10-07-2016, 02:33 PM   #127
 
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I live in a cold climate but on a back road where I can just drive slow as it warms up. I dont like to let car sit to warm up so I just start and go.


Still want to install my ST mani but cant afford the $300 price for the kit. Need job.
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 Old 10-07-2016, 04:10 PM   #128
 
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I second Mituc....what is happening with the TMIC version??
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 Old 10-07-2016, 06:12 PM   #129
 
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Originally Posted by Nitro View Post
I second Mituc....what is happening with the TMIC version??
More like what is happening with the PI version??
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 Old 10-23-2016, 10:23 PM   #130
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Is there a kit for the TMICs yet? I reckon it's only some tubing required to replace the silicone elbow between the coldpipe and TB when in its normal position with a longer tube and about the same elbow but lower in the engine bay. Or it's more difficult than that?
So did anyone with a TMIC fitted the FOST IM with this kit?

@Farhan@DM, any plans for adding a TMIC kit to the existing kit?
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 Old 11-04-2016, 08:48 PM   #131
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Don't have a timeline for a TMIC version. However, I think 5doors might have figured it out for you.
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 Old 05-01-2017, 12:03 PM   #132
 
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What I need for the cold pipe section if I go with JBR UnderRouting Pipe + TR8 Core ... and Damond ST Intake Manifold
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 Old 05-01-2017, 12:16 PM   #133
 
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Originally Posted by Atomic41 View Post
What I need for the cold pipe section if I go with JBR UnderRouting Pipe + TR8 Core ... and Damond ST Intake Manifold
siliconeintakes.com get you a 180-pipe, a BOV adapter coupler (or pipe if your BOV works with the ones they offer), some lengths of the straight pipe, a 90-degree coupler, some 2.5" straight couplers to tie it all together, and one of the 2.5-2.76" couplers for the TB.

I can get a specific list later, but that's roughly what you'll need.
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 Old 05-01-2017, 12:36 PM   #134
 
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Originally Posted by nindoja View Post
siliconeintakes.com get you a 180-pipe, a BOV adapter coupler (or pipe if your BOV works with the ones they offer), some lengths of the straight pipe, a 90-degree coupler, some 2.5" straight couplers to tie it all together, and one of the 2.5-2.76" couplers for the TB.

I can get a specific list later, but that's roughly what you'll need.
yes if you can for the specific list it will be nice

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 Old 05-02-2017, 06:38 AM   #135
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- 2.75" to 2.5" silicone reducer: Tube Reducer
- 1' 90* aluminum bend: Aluminum Pipe
- Mishimoto silicone tap for methanol: https://www.mishimoto.com/2-5-silico...-npt-bung.html
- 1' straight pipe: Aluminum Pipe
- BPV T-in silicone joiner: Silicone BOV T
- 1' 90* aluminum bend: Aluminum Pipe
- 90* silicone bend: Silicone 90
- Coupler joiner: DIY Intercooler Piping
- 2.5" bump coupler: Turbo Coupler

You can sub out the meth tap for a straight silicone section or another hump coupler. This list also assumes your BPV/BOV has a 1" or 1.25" pipe style fitting? for the T-in silicone section, not a normal mazdaspeed flange.

This list is in order from throttle body to cold side of the intercooler. Provided you have a gen2, you'll have zero rubbing.
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 Old 05-02-2017, 06:49 AM   #136
 
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Originally Posted by neganox View Post
- 2.75" to 2.5" silicone reducer: Tube Reducer
- 1' 90* aluminum bend: Aluminum Pipe
- Mishimoto silicone tap for methanol: https://www.mishimoto.com/2-5-silico...-npt-bung.html
- 1' straight pipe: Aluminum Pipe
- BPV T-in silicone joiner: Silicone BOV T
- 1' 90* aluminum bend: Aluminum Pipe
- 90* silicone bend: Silicone 90
- Coupler joiner: DIY Intercooler Piping
- 2.5" bump coupler: Turbo Coupler

You can sub out the meth tap for a straight silicone section or another hump coupler. This list also assumes your BPV/BOV has a 1" or 1.25" pipe style fitting? for the T-in silicone section, not a normal mazdaspeed flange.
I have a Turbosmart BPV
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 Old 05-02-2017, 10:31 AM   #137
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Originally Posted by Atomic41 View Post
I have a Turbosmart BPV
I know JBR can sell you a BPV adapter if you're stuck with a mazdaspeed flange. I believe they'll fit the 1.25" T-in coupler, but you'll need to double check with them for sizing.
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 Old 08-05-2017, 12:19 PM   #138
 
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Originally Posted by Farhan@DM View Post
Don't have a timeline for a TMIC version. However, I think 5doors might have figured it out for you.
Has there been any progress on a TMIC version?

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