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![]() | | #1 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Quality control on washers is probably on the low side. Washers don't really need to exact to get the job done. Sent from my iPad using my stinky fingers
__________________ 2010 speed w/tech//Freektune//Autotech hpfp//Cobb APv3-SRI-TIH--cold air box//Corksport--Axle back exhaust//adjustable shocks and springs//LED's//Damond RMM--PMM--TMM--OCC stage II--SSP with OEM weight//HKS SSQV recirc//Fomoco honey//JBR bsd and baffle--shift bushings--51R battery tray--STS--bypass hose--tig tb coolant bypass//M2 test pipe//NGK 6510 one step chilly//StopTech SS brake lines//ETS TMIC//Progress 32mm rear sway//UMBRA tint by Nino 35%//Hawk DTC-60 up front and HPplus pads in rear//Mazda5 oem+rear brake kit//TrackMasters hood struts// Coming up: Corksport injector seals |
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![]() | | #2 | ![]() |
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Well i guess in this case they did lol
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned | |
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![]() | | #3 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, right. Looks like I'm off to the hardware store for some 12mm washers. Sent from my iPad using my stinky fingers
__________________ 2010 speed w/tech//Freektune//Autotech hpfp//Cobb APv3-SRI-TIH--cold air box//Corksport--Axle back exhaust//adjustable shocks and springs//LED's//Damond RMM--PMM--TMM--OCC stage II--SSP with OEM weight//HKS SSQV recirc//Fomoco honey//JBR bsd and baffle--shift bushings--51R battery tray--STS--bypass hose--tig tb coolant bypass//M2 test pipe//NGK 6510 one step chilly//StopTech SS brake lines//ETS TMIC//Progress 32mm rear sway//UMBRA tint by Nino 35%//Hawk DTC-60 up front and HPplus pads in rear//Mazda5 oem+rear brake kit//TrackMasters hood struts// Coming up: Corksport injector seals |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just to be clear u can use thicker washers then 12mm or 7/16 right? Bc i have some that a little thicker but will still let the nut thread on correctly
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes, just put it in a position where the damond washer is the one making contact with the bushing
__________________ Black Vue Dash Cam- Cobb AP V3 (Stratified tune 4 gal E85 mix) - M2 Downpipe - Swift Springs - HKS SSQV4 - Sure V2 SRI - JBR TIP - ACDelco Rear Camber Arms - West-End Custom Alignment - White Line Bump Steer - KMD Internals - Hankook Evo V12 245-40-17 - |
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Damond washer? ![]() ![]() Here is the set i have right now.. Is it okay to stack washers?
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned Last edited by blackms3_71; 06-03-2014 at 06:30 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I ment provided Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
__________________ Black Vue Dash Cam- Cobb AP V3 (Stratified tune 4 gal E85 mix) - M2 Downpipe - Swift Springs - HKS SSQV4 - Sure V2 SRI - JBR TIP - ACDelco Rear Camber Arms - West-End Custom Alignment - White Line Bump Steer - KMD Internals - Hankook Evo V12 245-40-17 - Last edited by Nano91; 06-03-2014 at 06:31 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Should work as long as a few threads are poking out when tightening the bolt Sent from my iPhone using sausage fingers
__________________ 2010 speed w/tech//Freektune//Autotech hpfp//Cobb APv3-SRI-TIH--cold air box//Corksport--Axle back exhaust//adjustable shocks and springs//LED's//Damond RMM--PMM--TMM--OCC stage II--SSP with OEM weight//HKS SSQV recirc//Fomoco honey//JBR bsd and baffle--shift bushings--51R battery tray--STS--bypass hose--tig tb coolant bypass//M2 test pipe//NGK 6510 one step chilly//StopTech SS brake lines//ETS TMIC//Progress 32mm rear sway//UMBRA tint by Nino 35%//Hawk DTC-60 up front and HPplus pads in rear//Mazda5 oem+rear brake kit//TrackMasters hood struts// Coming up: Corksport injector seals |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the help. I also looked online and the faa says its okay to do on planes so must be ok to do on cars lol
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I stacked two 12mm washers on the allen side of the bolt. This allowed the supplied nut and washer to tighten down on the metal sleeves without running into the bolt shoulder. I torqued it to 55 ft-lbs and the clunk is gone!! The bushings hardly look deformed, so very little stress is put on them axially. Unless a better solution is found or the clunk returns, I am leaving this setup alone.
__________________ 2010 MS3 "Maiko" - Sold 2006 MS6 "Izzy" - Sold - Totaled by next owner - Shell sold to NATOR AL member 1999 Miata "Geisha" - Hawnduh VTAK VeeSax Swop 2009 Rx8 "Queso" - powered by high rpm Doritos 2001 Ford F250 "Wampa" - All of the slow. |
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phone
__________________ 2012 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 Idontknowwhat SRI (on it when I bought the car) // Corksport TIP // Corksport test pipe // Corksport HPFP internals // Damond Motorsports RMM // Cobb AP // JBR solid shifter bushings // Stratified S-OTS+ E85 Tune much car wow so turbo | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No clunking here yet. Spent the day trying Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
__________________ 2012 CWP w/ Tech; Damond Motorsports RMM; AT Internals; CS Stage II Intake; Cobb DP; Phate Tuned; KW V1 Coilovers; Damond SSP; DM OCC |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well good to see that it just seems to be a washer thickness issue and is being resolved. Now lets hear some more reviews!!
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Alright, as promised, review as of today with maybe 20 miles on the new RMM. A little background... I had originally purchased and installed the JBR 88 and ran that for about 300 miles before going back to the stock w/ CS Inserts. The vibes made it race car worthy but the resonating noise as a result of the vibes was next to umbearable. The CS Inserts were fine, next to no vibes at all but just felt too soft and then I saw DM's RMM and had to have it. I am still running the stock PMM and TMM. Received the RMM in the mail and first thing I thought was holy crap this thing is heavy. That said its a beautiful piece of engineering, at looks good to although I was concerned to find a shoulder bolt but I held out and had faith. Had the mount sitting on my desk for about 4 days before I got a chance to install it, needless to say I was itching something fierce. Having no instructions I came back to the forum to see if anyone had any tips or pointers on torque requirements and say 40-45tq on the shoulder bolt and I felt much more at ease. Install went just as any previous RMM installs, with the exception of the shoulder bolt not being able to torque down. Got it as tight as I could and the bolt still easily spun. Reinstalled the bolt about 3 times all with the same result. After closer inspection it appeared approximately 1mm of the shoulder of the bolt was extending out past the end of the bushing and the provided washer did not clear the shoulder but instead while tightening down the should would start to dig in and deform the washer and it was starting to look like LatinKraze's and ear28's. As concerning as this was I recall reading those who had similar issues and resulted in clunking but without any anticipated damage to occur as a result, I decided to stick with it. Clunking was anticipated and clunking I had occasionally during initial acceleration, occasionally around turns while accelerating, and constantly when reversing. This was also accompanied by vibes through the frame, but I had to admit the resonance as noticed with the JBR was not present, so far so good clunking aside. After seeing others using various washers and lock washers to resolve this I decided to start digging and found a couple washers of my own but that would have to wait for tomorrow to fix. Install Day 2- Before attempting my own washers today I checked in to the thread again and saw that 7/16's washer should do the truth, this is when I found that the washers I was dug up were only 3/8 and wouldn't do any better than the provided one, so ran over to Lowe's and picked up a pack of 7/16's. I lostened the bolts for the mount to allow for movement and to add the new washer to the shoulder bolt. When I removed the supplied washer and nut and placed my own 7/16 washer in place I found that it fit perfectly over the extending part of the shoulder and allowing the provided washer to mount flush. I began tightening everything down and noticed that the 7/16 had slipped off the edge of the soulder and was presenting me with the same situation as with the provided washer, not being able to torque down the nut as needed. 2 attempts later I found that I had to slowly and carefully tighten the nut down to ensure the 7/16 washer remained in place. I was able to get everything torqued down to specifications including the 45tq on the shoulder bolt. After finishing I took her for a test drive. Vibes definitely still present but clunking completely gone and still no adverse resonance like with the JBR. Wondering if the vibes will settle as the bushings break in, but what I've felt and noticed thus far I would definitely be ok if they don't.
__________________ Installed: Cobb AP v2 // Autotech Internals // Corksport Stage II SRI // CX Racing FMIC // ATP Catless Downpipe // DM RMM // Corksport SSP // JBR TBG & Collant Bypass // SU Shift Bushings // JBR Armor Mud Flaps On The Bench (pending install): Grimspeed EBCS Coming Soon (in no particular order): JBR Intake TIG // HTP 3.5" Intake System // DM PMM // DM v1 Oil Catch Can // Corksport BPV // (?) Short Shifter // (?) Catted Downpipe |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure my results are applicable due to being a complete beta part - but I have no clunking, and the only vibes I get are throttle tip in from 1st / reverse or lugging 2nd gear when rolling out from a very low speed. I was under the car recently to check my bushings and nut/bolt, and everything is looking good and still feeling great. I just added air bags to the rear springs, so my weight transfer (or lack thereof) has just added to the flat and tight feel of the car and shift linkage. The whole package is feeling really good - now to find some streetable tires capable of handling the power...
__________________ Manley forged long block, secret snail, manifolds, and 2gal E85 tune running like a champ - about to dial in a lot of meth and see what we've got. 13.10@117.1 full weight DD no prep 1/4 (BNR S3 / E85) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yup, this is nothing more than a tolerance stackup issue. Washers for this time around ended up being a different size. Like I said, .070" causing this. Wetz is doing testing on a new setup, but the result was instant and thoroughly successful. Give me a few days to feel all warm and fuzzy, then I'll send out a care package to anyone that wants one with new nut and washers so you don't have to guess. Pull the bolt, put an additional 12mm, 7/16, or 1/2 in washer under the head, put it all back on invluding the 10mm washer. TORQUE TO 25 ft-lbs. Please do not use hardware that wasn't provided or recommended, especially lock washers or a regular bolt.
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Whats wrong with using lock washers? I will not use it and go with a normal one but just wondering
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned | |
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![]() | | #18 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Lock washers turn into regular washers once they're flat. They don't actually lock anything. Just learned this for myself a few days ago lol.
__________________ -06 MS6 -Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold ![]() www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money. |
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The mount feels just as solid as it did two days ago, but now has less vibrations and no clunk. An improvement I could have survived without, but appreciate none the less. I will monitor and be in touch with Farhan over the next few days.
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Crap 25 lbs? I just got to 40 lbs and the head of the bolt started to strip. Can we order a new bolt? Sent from Stockish Pu
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is it 25ft lbs or 45ft lbs?
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 - Celestial Blue Mica |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score New spec is 25lbs with the washer added Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
__________________ Black Vue Dash Cam- Cobb AP V3 (Stratified tune 4 gal E85 mix) - M2 Downpipe - Swift Springs - HKS SSQV4 - Sure V2 SRI - JBR TIP - ACDelco Rear Camber Arms - West-End Custom Alignment - White Line Bump Steer - KMD Internals - Hankook Evo V12 245-40-17 - |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Farhan@DM; I'm in for one of those care packages, I will pm you my home address (different address from where you shipped the mount) phone
__________________ 2012 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 Idontknowwhat SRI (on it when I bought the car) // Corksport TIP // Corksport test pipe // Corksport HPFP internals // Damond Motorsports RMM // Cobb AP // JBR solid shifter bushings // Stratified S-OTS+ E85 Tune much car wow so turbo |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would like a care package.
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3: CP-E FMIC / CP-E RMM / Cobb SRI / Cobb TIP / Cobb AP V3/ HKS BOV / PTP HPFP Internals / UR V1 Catted DP / UR Racepipe / Cobb SS Catback Exhaust / Swift Spec-R Lowering Springs w/Koni Yellow |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm going to need the care package, possibly a new shoulder bolt since mine is pretty stripped out. Sent from my Samsung GALAXY S III
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![]() | | #26 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well installed the mount. So far no clunk but i do have more vibs then i did with my old mount but i will give it some time to break in and then see how it feels
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Farhan@DM I'll gladly take a care package just so I've got a good and supported install. It would go to the same address as the mount was shipped. Thanks.
__________________ Installed: Cobb AP v2 // Autotech Internals // Corksport Stage II SRI // CX Racing FMIC // ATP Catless Downpipe // DM RMM // Corksport SSP // JBR TBG & Collant Bypass // SU Shift Bushings // JBR Armor Mud Flaps On The Bench (pending install): Grimspeed EBCS Coming Soon (in no particular order): JBR Intake TIG // HTP 3.5" Intake System // DM PMM // DM v1 Oil Catch Can // Corksport BPV // (?) Short Shifter // (?) Catted Downpipe |
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![]() | | #28 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Farhan@DM; I will take the care package as well. @blackms3_71; I have increased idle speed from 700rpm to 750rpm, and it have significantly reduced idle vibrations. Sent from my Republic Wireless Moto X using Tapatalk
__________________ Sparkling Graphite Metallic E90 330i 6speed ZSP RIP: くろ ひめ BlackMica SPEED3 |
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![]() | | #29 | ![]() |
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My idle is 850, i also get more decl vibes too. Anyone get that? Maybe just needs to break in? Also i will take a care package too @Farhan@DM;
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned | |
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![]() | | #30 | ![]() |
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__________________ Black Vue Dash Cam- Cobb AP V3 (Stratified tune 4 gal E85 mix) - M2 Downpipe - Swift Springs - HKS SSQV4 - Sure V2 SRI - JBR TIP - ACDelco Rear Camber Arms - West-End Custom Alignment - White Line Bump Steer - KMD Internals - Hankook Evo V12 245-40-17 - | |
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__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 w/tech Cobb AP V3 ║ JBR Tru 3" Wide Path ║ JBR Boost Tubes & BPV Hose ║ Cobb XLE BPV ║ CP-E TMIC ║ UR Racepipe ║ Magnaflow CBE ║ AutoTech Internals ║ GrimmSpeed EBCS ║ JBR RSB ║ SPC Camber Arms ║ KW V3 Coilovers ║ JBR IM+TB TIGs & TB Bypass ║ JBR SSP ║ E - Focus RMM ║ StopTech Slotted Rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff Pads ║ Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines |
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__________________ 2013 Mazdaspeed3 Crystal White Pearl [Damond Motorsports RMM & SSP] [Maisonvi Grooved Dessert Beagle Knob] [COBB AP V3] [CorkSport HPFP Internals, SRI, TIP, TMIC & LEDs] [Sure M3 TP] [cp-e Triton CBE] [GFB BOV] [91 Octane Purple Drank Tuned - 260whp/290wtq - VDyno] Parts to Install: [JBR 3" TRU-3" Intake & Solid Shifter Bushings] [DDM HID Kit] |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Same here In for the proper care Package repair Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'll take one of them fancy care packages as well. I put about 70 miles on the mount after adding the washer to the nut side and no more clunk. Vibes are still more prevalent than before. I'll wait for the proper washer and nut to torque to spec and see if there's a difference. Could just be the bushings breaking in too. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
__________________ 2012 CWP MS3: Corksport SRI/TIP | MD RMM, OCC | AT Internals | Cobb AP v3 | JBR 70d side mounts, SSP, shifter bushings | CP-E FMIC | CNT catted DP | UR Resonated CBE | Tints 20% and 5% |
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![]() | | #35 | ![]() |
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I agree prob is the bushing. I will give it 1000 miles to see if it improves if not back to the old mount lol I noticed it the very first decal and its kinda heavy too i didnt like that but its also a new mount so lets see what happening during break in
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned Last edited by blackms3_71; 06-04-2014 at 12:23 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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![]() | | #36 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Farhan@DM; I sent a PM, but just in case it's buried under all the ones you've been receiving recently, I'll take a nuts and bolts care package. Thanks. Right thumb!
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__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica Fast: COBB AP | Autotechs | JBR 3'' WP | CS DP | CS ABE | MDM RMM | JBR RSB | NGK Plugs | JBR SSP | ETS TMIC Rice: Aeroforce Interceptor | AEM M 35psi | Konig Milligrams 18x8.5 + 35 | Z1 Star Specs | JBR Mudflaps ![]() |
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__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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__________________ 2010 speed w/tech//Freektune//Autotech hpfp//Cobb APv3-SRI-TIH--cold air box//Corksport--Axle back exhaust//adjustable shocks and springs//LED's//Damond RMM--PMM--TMM--OCC stage II--SSP with OEM weight//HKS SSQV recirc//Fomoco honey//JBR bsd and baffle--shift bushings--51R battery tray--STS--bypass hose--tig tb coolant bypass//M2 test pipe//NGK 6510 one step chilly//StopTech SS brake lines//ETS TMIC//Progress 32mm rear sway//UMBRA tint by Nino 35%//Hawk DTC-60 up front and HPplus pads in rear//Mazda5 oem+rear brake kit//TrackMasters hood struts// Coming up: Corksport injector seals |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hello there! I know I'm a little late to this thread, but being that I've had this RMM installed on my car possibly the longest (or close to - just shy of 5k miles with it on) I thought I'd throw my two cents in here. I want to say first a few things in order to be as fair as possible. I am a total newb to car innards and workings, I didn't know what a RMM was before owning my Speed. I also have a proto-type, and therefore I believe I may have slightly different nuts, bolts, washers than everyone else (the bushings and body/material/shape is the same though). Lastly, Farhan himself installed the RMM on my car (in a parking lot) - so my discussion of how easy it was is void, but it only took 10 minutes tops for him to get it on there without the aid of any special tools/selection of tools. That day we immediately set out to the East Coast for Epic Nator Meet...within that weekend we drove about 1.5k miles, and had 5 different people drive my car at some point (to be fair, one was Farhan and another was Matt ...perhaps the two making the product do not count) yet all of us felt no note worthy vibration yet all commented on how seated an stiff the engine felt. I have a Fidanza flywheel on my Speed so there is noticeable chatter at idle when I do not have my clutch engaged, and most of the vibrations are here and slightly into my climb out of 1st to 2nd. This is only slightly more noticeable when I happen to have the A/C on - but only in the sense that I'm trying to pay attention to it in order to write this review. Honestly it's basically the same with and without the A/C on and I hardly ever drive with that shiz on so if you're like me, you really won't GaF. I'm a newb. I learned to drive stick on this car, in the winter, in Chicago - my driving skills are not the most forgiving or the best. I'll be the first to tell you. The beauty of this RMM is how much better it makes my shifting FEEL. I used to struggle with 1st and 2nd, and granted I'm still not perfect, but my transitions into and out of these gears are 110% better with the DM RMM. ESPECIALLY with the fact that, I CAN'T REV MATCH - so what do I do when I down shift from 6th to 4th to hoon? I basically slap that shit into gear and let it go - and as we know that makes the engine want to travel. This mount holds tight and takes the abuse (I am not recommending everyone drive like an idiot as I do, but you should know your DM RMM will rise to the challenge). The DM RMM has remained strong, secure and quiet/almost completely vibeless over 5k miles, and I do not doubt that it will remain that way for many more. What I can't tell you in technical speak, I can tell you in experience - Farhan and DM will take care of you and the minor clunking issue that you're experiencing. It's unfortunate that something as minor would happen upon a great product's release but if that's the only issue marring your experience, let Farhan and DM send you a care package when they are comfortable doing so - give it another go and I am pretty sure you will not be disappointed.
__________________ OhMerGerd Phey Edition Blue Ken Maisonville Steel Shift Knob!!! Cosmo <3 - '08 Cosmic Blue Mica Speed3. <3 Cobb V3 AP <3 CorkSport Intake & TIP <3 CX Racing FMIC <3 Forge V1 BPV <3 Fidanza Flywheel <3 AT Internals <3 Damond Motorsports RMM & PMM <3 Ultimate Racing Test Pipe <3 Bilstein Shocks & Struts <3 Cobb Lowering Springs <3 Whiteline Sway Bars <3 Phate Tuned <3 |
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