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 Old 09-20-2011, 12:45 PM   #1

 
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Default Backyard fabrication; ECU and battery relocation

Not sure what category this falls into, so figured I'd throw it in General.

So, my pops and uncle helped me out by building a rough up box for battery (Braille B2317r) and ECU relocation so sometime in the future I can slap an EFR in here.

After this weekend (racing on a go-kart track) if it survives (don't see why it won't), I'll break it down, clean it up and paint it so it looks nicer.

Keep in mind this was made from scrap steel from racecar builds that was laying around and some misc hardware from ACE.

Some notes:
1. Initial design failed; was only going to save about 1.5 inches total space after ECU with cover bolted on the side. Totally wasted day; new design saves over 4.5.

2. I re-used the rear battery mount hole (visible as a white bracket in the no going back image) with a short piece of all-thread, double nutted on top and bottom to act as additional support for the weight of the battery (17 lbs, total weight of bracket + ecu probably less than 21-22).

3. ECU is electrically isolated from ground, just like it would be with stock location/mounting.

4. In the modifications image, you can where the stock intake bracket portions as well as the the ECU wiring harness bracket cuts/grinds were made (see nut access image for clarification). There is probably still some work left to do as far as cable routing, but I won't know for sure until after I've got the new MAF sensor and short ram intake at least.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stock Trans Plate.JPG (728.4 KB, 174 views)
File Type: jpg Modifications.jpg (928.0 KB, 167 views)
File Type: jpg No Going Back.JPG (767.8 KB, 206 views)
File Type: jpg Failed Design.JPG (752.3 KB, 268 views)
File Type: jpg Final Installed.JPG (726.4 KB, 515 views)
File Type: jpg Game of Inches.JPG (741.8 KB, 182 views)
File Type: jpg Nut Access.JPG (756.3 KB, 201 views)
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Last edited by Enki; 09-20-2011 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Added another picture
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 Old 09-20-2011, 12:59 PM   #2
 
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Looks good man. How did you get your power cable to stretch that far to the right? I have a diehard battery with terminals on the opposite side of the battery (I'd imagine pretty close to where your power terminal is sitting) & I couldn't get the stock power connector to reach without extending it. Is there a tie that you can cut to get a little more slack?
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 Old 09-20-2011, 01:03 PM   #3

 
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Yeah, there's a clip on the tranny that keeps part of the harness strapped down. Release it (its a clippie deal, I'll get a pic of it if you want) and it comes loose. I'll probably wind up pulling the whole bracket and relocating the tranny ground that also ties in, but that should be pretty easy.
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 Old 09-20-2011, 01:16 PM   #4
 
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 Old 09-20-2011, 01:17 PM   #5
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uhmmm ok philly
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 Old 09-20-2011, 03:17 PM   #6
 
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are you trying to show another approach instead of relocating the battery to the trunk?

For a Mock-up Its not bad...def different. i would def look into putting the ECM somewhere else, it kinda looks tossed in there.

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 Old 09-20-2011, 03:19 PM   #7

 
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This is another approach, yes. I already have a Braille battery installed, and with it set up as pictured, just got back from picking up lunch. Works just fine, but looks all kind of hick. I might do some kind of cover out of aluminum for the ECU or something, don't know yet.
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 Old 09-20-2011, 03:46 PM   #8
 
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I think it would look alot cleaner if you could make a simple bracket to the side of the battery tray, so t hat the battery is easily accesisle if a charge or replacement is needed and ECM is not in the way. Not only will this remove the wires hanging in the air but also make the battery more accesible.
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 Old 09-20-2011, 03:56 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Yeah, there's a clip on the tranny that keeps part of the harness strapped down. Release it (its a clippie deal, I'll get a pic of it if you want) and it comes loose. I'll probably wind up pulling the whole bracket and relocating the tranny ground that also ties in, but that should be pretty easy.
Is the clip for the power cable, or the ecu harnesses? I am betting I can follow one of them and based on your description It should be fairly evident. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks!
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 Old 09-20-2011, 04:05 PM   #10

 
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Originally Posted by J-Liss View Post
I think it would look alot cleaner if you could make a simple bracket to the side of the battery tray, so t hat the battery is easily accesisle if a charge or replacement is needed and ECM is not in the way. Not only will this remove the wires hanging in the air but also make the battery more accesible.
I had that set up (see the failed bracket picture) but it would not work out space wise; to fit a 7064, I'll need an additional 4.5 inches minimum to be able to clear both alternator and ecu/battery. Top or front is the only way to go, and front fucks up my air/water intercooler placement and possibly part of the intake.
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 Old 09-20-2011, 04:43 PM   #11

 
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Originally Posted by vbt101 View Post
Is the clip for the power cable, or the ecu harnesses? I am betting I can follow one of them and based on your description It should be fairly evident. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks!
I'll go take a couple pictures in a few minutes and post them up.
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 Old 09-20-2011, 05:13 PM   #12

 
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Some more pictures. I think there's enough room to get/give a jump if needed, actually.

Also, couple for you, @vbt101.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Clearance.JPG (746.1 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpg Clearance2.JPG (738.7 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg Bracket.JPG (810.1 KB, 134 views)
File Type: jpg more cable.JPG (888.1 KB, 141 views)
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 Old 12-30-2013, 11:45 PM   #13

 
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Hate to necro one of my own threads but in hindsight, I had a lot of foresight when I decided to have this done; my car would not have started for several weeks while I waited for custom intake parts to show up, since NONE of the standard intakes would fit with stock battery + ECU and an EFR....Period.

Mods please move to hard parts fabrication section por-favor.
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 Old 03-21-2014, 07:50 PM   #14

 
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Thread necro!

Redid most of it by cutting up and reusing the old parts. This is the result.

I may wind up modifying the tie down plate a bit to keep deformation to a minimum.

As a side note, if you need to put a bolt in something but can't get a wrench on it due to space constraints, using two lock washers (one on each side of the part the bolt is going through) with a nut will lock that fucker down from finger tight all the way to torqued (on the nut only) with no issues.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_144715.jpg (143.4 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_150800.jpg (130.6 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_152326.jpg (817.8 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_152330.jpg (479.9 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_152345.jpg (2.48 MB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_162335.jpg (2.49 MB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20140321_162340.jpg (568.4 KB, 50 views)
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 Old 03-21-2014, 10:14 PM   #15
 
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Looks good
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 Old 03-23-2014, 03:44 PM   #16
 
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I hope you cut off the battery hold down bolts before you closed your hood...

Reminds me of back in the day when one would replace the carb aircleaner stud and slam the hood. Instant dimple.
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 Old 03-23-2014, 04:46 PM   #17

 
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There's like 6 inches clearance between them and the hood man. The whole thing is maybe 8-10 inches tall off the trans mount.
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 Old 03-24-2014, 08:38 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
There's like 6 inches clearance between them and the hood man. The whole thing is maybe 8-10 inches tall off the trans mount.
It's all good, E. Just grindin' on ya a little.
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 Old 03-24-2014, 12:44 PM   #19
 
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This is a shot of my shade tree fabrications just to throw another one out there.
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