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 Old 11-14-2011, 06:32 PM   #1
 
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Default Cobb Tuning and engine problems

Long story short my car was throwing a P0012 (overretard code) and was ticking bad from 1500-2500 so I took it to the dealer. They said i was down to 1.5qt and suspected bearing damage. So I had them fix the part that bled the oil out and do an oil change. After that the problem with over-retard went away and so did the 1500-2500 tick.

Now I have it back in my driveway with no codes and only an idle tick. Once I put stage 1 93+ cobb tune on the car the tick got a lot louder and after a short rev the car has some trouble finding a steady idle. Just a bit of idle surge. Knowing the risk I decided to take a 3rd gear pull and see what's going on. Attached are two maps.

1st map is just the car at idle with a rev or two
2nd map is two 3rd gear pulls back to back

Here is a video of the car at idle. Sorry for the fast movements but I wanted to cover the entire engine bay in a short time.

Mazda ticking video by RWDaddict - Photobucket
Attached Files
File Type: csv Stage1+SF 93 v106_idle.csv (33.4 KB, 4 views)
File Type: csv Stage1+SF 93 v106_3rd_gear_pull.csv (26.5 KB, 10 views)
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 Old 11-14-2011, 06:36 PM   #2
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you need to update your AP, your logs are AFU
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 Old 11-14-2011, 06:39 PM   #3
 
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Mileage? First owner/history of the car?
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 Old 11-14-2011, 07:13 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
you need to update your AP, your logs are AFU
? I just updated everything last night and reflashed it tonight. That's the latest everything

Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
Mileage? First owner/history of the car?
95,000 I am the 2nd owner and bought it at 46k

My Mods list in my sig is a wee bit outdated.

Mods list so far.
Mazdaspeed CAI, RMM, HPFP, 3" catted DP, Synchronic BOV, AP, CP-E TMIC, and SURE TIP
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 Old 11-14-2011, 10:48 PM   #5
 
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A way you can find out if its a bearing is while you have the car running unplug the coil pack connector and notice the sound changing while you are do that if you does change in that clyinder it will be that clyinder bearing is bad.. I also have seen the cam buckets worn out cause a crazy ticking noise with that kind of miles also check you timing chain too..
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 Old 11-15-2011, 04:50 AM   #6
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you need to re-save your map in an updated version of ATR then, your logs are unreadable.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 06:50 AM   #7
 
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Besides the excellent advice above, I think you are logging in non-standard units.

Most of the 2nd log seems to show a gigantic vacuum leak somewhere.

A quick search netted me some info on the possibility that your egr valve could be stuck if you cannot find a vac leak.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 07:33 AM   #8
 
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I think the title of this thread is extremely mis-leading. It very clearly makes it seem as if you're attributing your AP to your issue. If you had a unknown problem before the AP (which you admitted to), you should have never installed the AP for anything other than a monitoring device.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 08:09 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Besides the excellent advice above, I think you are logging in non-standard units.

Most of the 2nd log seems to show a gigantic vacuum leak somewhere.

A quick search netted me some info on the possibility that your egr valve could be stuck if you cannot find a vac leak.
If his EGR was stuck it will cause a misfire ..
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 Old 11-15-2011, 08:49 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by amoosenamedhank View Post
I think the title of this thread is extremely mis-leading. It very clearly makes it seem as if you're attributing your AP to your issue. If you had a unknown problem before the AP (which you admitted to), you should have never installed the AP for anything other than a monitoring device.
I've had the AP for a while. I uninstalled it before I dropped it off at the dealers. I've been running an AP since about 75k. This is my first log. I had the beta version installed so that may have thrown off the logs. I do pull an EGR valve code and i'm sure it's stuck open. I didn't think that it would become a boost leak so it looks like that is jumping to a higher priority. After I fix the EGR I will run a new map. Hopefully my buddy and I can take her off and clean it out this weekend.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 08:07 AM   #11
 
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fyi: to fix EGR - run 3 gal E85. Fuck taking that thing off lol
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 Old 11-16-2011, 01:53 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
fyi: to fix EGR - run 3 gal E85. Fuck taking that thing off lol
Tempting but with my miles and the problems i've had lately i'd rather not risk it.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 01:59 PM   #13
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But you'll rip a 3rd gear pull?
All of the posts above are good starts, try one at a time and report back with some legible logs (not "maps")
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 Old 11-17-2011, 07:41 AM   #14
 
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Just pulled a P2187 code so i'm hoping that EGR valve is the source. I'll have it fixed this weekend and then i'll run another log. What parameters should I log? Last time I just selected all.
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 Old 11-17-2011, 02:41 PM   #15
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- Accel Pedal Position
- RPM
- Knock Retard
- Calculated Load
- Mass Airflow (g/s)
- Throttle Position
- Actual AFR
- DI Fuel Pressure
- Boost
- Boosted Air Temp
- Spark Advance
- Wastegate Duty Cycle
- Long Term Fuel Trim
- Closed Loop (2010's only)
- Intake Valve Advance
- Injector Pulse Width
- Injector Duty Cycle
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