Just read the noob guide

[radioflyer]

I read up to commanding AFR's in Abilor's Tuning Guide and I think I'm ready to start calibrating my MAF to start with. I made some logs and I think I know what to do. Are these logs consistent enough or do they need to need to be exactly the same to make decisions off of? It was suggested in the guide that LTFT should be no more that - or + 2. How many adjustment / re-flashes should I expect to go through before I can achieve this? I attached a few logs.

Mods: K & N SRI , Cobb TIH, AP with K & N SRI + Cobb TIH, 91 oct

[rfinkle2]

As long as you have a few miles on your map (i.e. around 50 or so city miles), I would take the average of the 3 logs and apply them to your maf curve (just my opinion).

TBH, +/- 2 is very strict, and I would say anything less than +/-4 or 5 is acceptable.

If you go by Cobb standards, anything +/- 8 is acceptable.

Once you make the changes, and the trims are closer to 0, move on to the fueling tables.

[Lex]

LTFTs will adjust your cruise and idle AFRs - what you want to make sure you get right is your MAF curve in the WOT region such that your commanded AFRs are within +/- 0.10 of your actual AFRs at steady state WOT.

LTFTs will change with temperatures, the weather, different fuels etc and I would say that +/- 10% at low load LTFTs are ok.

[radioflyer]

Good stuff thanks for the tips, I'll have to finish the guide before I try anything. Is WOT MAF calibration different than the slow progressive 2nd gear method I tried here? I see the importance of having MAF calibration be spot on at WOT. Is this the same process or different? I'm going for 75% safety 25% performance / efficiency.

[skiptowncat]

HOW TO CALIBRATE YOUR MAF! With An Example

[rfinkle2]

Doug's write-up is great that skiptowncat posted above.

Wot maf correction can be found on pg. 15/69 of the help file, as well as an example.

It is just a matter of some quick division.

[btstarcher]

Don't forget to donate!

[radioflyer]

Ill be sure to donate thanks for all of the info guys.

[radioflyer]

I have one more question about plugs. I noticed Cobb recommends itv22's with stage 1 configurations. Does the need for colder plugs present itself in one form or another in the logs?

[Lex]

Blowout if improperly gapped/old which you will feel while driving and possible KR when the engine is heatsoaked and boost is increased.

Colder plugs are a method of reducing detonation if they are a source of it. The electrode is more recessed into the plug making it less likely to act like a hotspot and removing heat from its tip faster. The more power you make, the more heat, so the colder the plug. You can go too far and have a plug that is too cold and will foul but the ITV22 is a safe bet for most cars on the stock turbo making 50+ hp more than stock.