So i did a custom tune...

[R.MS3]

Hey guys,

So i finally managed to get my custom tune done this Saturday. Decided to fork over some money for an AP and do it. Tuner did mostly Suby's but had done a few MS3's and 6's.

Biggest problems i was having was very high LTFT's (20%) and knock on PT and a little bit on WOT. I basically wanted to correct those things and get to 18PSI safely. Also, i wanted to not have much boost on low RPM.

After it was finished, i was amazed how harder the car pulled after 3500RPM, great! The car was dynoed on a Mustang that the tuner said "read very low" and he did my tune on 4wd to "put more load in the car."

Final numbers were 234whp/258tq from a stock tune of 220whp/240tq. Like i said, it read very low but to me, it was more important getting a safe tune than a lot of power.

Trims are still a bit high on partial throttle and i'll see if i can talk to him about that. Only thing i saw "wrong", was the calculated load not going up... any input on this would be appreciated, as well as any other thing you see.

Here are the logs + power curve...

[Lex]

IMO that is a near perfect tune for the mods you have and stock turbo.

Your peak torque is from 3600-5100 RPM and peak HP happens just past 6000RPM.

Calculated load is below the capped value and AFs look good.

Nice job!

[speed23]

As lex said, looks pretty good. A nice conservative time. I woudnt worry about the fuel trims because if you try to correct these, then your calculated load will change, so the tune will change.

[madvillain]

nicely done man, those are great numbers for your mods

[R.MS3]

Bleh... Just got a P2187 because my LTFT's are back at 20%. This is so weird, the trims goes back to normal as soon as i step on it (like you can see on the datalogs) but when i idle, the shit keeps going up. Everything else is A-okay and i don't even get KR anymore.

The tuner did a boost leak test where he sealed the intake post-MAF and blew in the little BPV hose and the test was okay so i don't know where to look now. Purge valve is brand-new BTW.

Any light would be nice lol

[Lex]

do you have a catch can? it can be leaking.

[taf0422]

so a leak will make the idle LTFT keep going up? mine if you sit longer than a few minutes they will start to creep from 5..6..8...to 10.9 and stop there. Sorry, to high jack you but its the same issue I have.

[Lex]

yup a leak between the turbo and tb will cause lean idle and rich boost. I wouldn't worry about a leak unless you're in the 20s for LTFTs

[FORZDA 1]

Originally Posted by ReNaToMS3 Bleh... Just got a P2187 because my LTFT's are back at 20%. This is so weird, the trims goes back to normal as soon as i step on it (like you can see on the datalogs) but when i idle, the shit keeps going up. Everything else is A-okay and i don't even get KR anymore. The tuner did a boost leak test where he sealed the intake post-MAF and blew in the little BPV hose and the test was okay so i don't know where to look now. Purge valve is brand-new BTW. Any light would be nice lol

There's more to a tune than a cool dyno graph. Your tuner dude blew the MAF cal (if he even looked at it) at the lower airflow to screw up your LTFT. I see it almost +10 in your logs. The MAF volts will be around 1.2 volts at idle if all is well. I see yours up around 1.6 with the throttle closed. The tuner must allow the car to cool and idle on the dyno for at least 5 minutes or so to allow the idle LTFT to settle out.

[taf0422]

Originally Posted by Lex yup a leak between the turbo and tb will cause lean idle and rich boost. I wouldn't worry about a leak unless you're in the 20s for LTFTs

good because thats a lot of fmic piping to go through..lol

[R.MS3]

Originally Posted by FORZDA 1 There's more to a tune than a cool dyno graph. Your tuner dude blew the MAF cal (if he even looked at it) at the lower airflow to screw up your LTFT. I see it almost +10 in your logs. The MAF volts will be around 1.2 volts at idle if all is well. I see yours up around 1.6 with the throttle closed. The tuner must allow the car to cool and idle on the dyno for at least 5 minutes or so to allow the idle LTFT to settle out.

He sent me a revised map after i let him know of the issue... i'll see how it goes. So the maf voltage should be around 1.2 at idle? I'll check that tomorrow. I was having the same high trims before the tune, i let him know that basically he didn't do a maf calibration. Is it crazy to say the +20 trim is just from the cobb intake? Vaccum is -20 at idle, engine braking i get to -24 usually and you can see i'm hitting 18psi and staying there so should i rule out a boost leak?

The car was running hot after 2-3 runs so that's probably what you're saying right there.

I don't have a catch can BTW.

Thx for answers

[FORZDA 1]

Originally Posted by ReNaToMS3 He sent me a revised map after i let him know of the issue... i'll see how it goes. So the maf voltage should be around 1.2 at idle? I'll check that tomorrow. I was having the same high trims before the tune, i let him know that basically he didn't do a maf calibration. Is it crazy to say the +20 trim is just from the cobb intake? Vaccum is -20 at idle, engine braking i get to -24 usually and you can see i'm hitting 18psi and staying there so should i rule out a boost leak? The car was running hot after 2-3 runs so that's probably what you're saying right there. I don't have a catch can BTW. Thx for answers

Yes, a high LTFT at idle can be caused by the SRI, but +20 is still a bit high even so. IMO, based on your comments, you just need the tune set up properly and go from there. Hang in there and you will get it all sorted out... and will like it!

[R.MS3]

Yep, i put the revised map and trims are now close to 0, from +3 to -5, much better. Waiting for those 100 miles to do a WOT log. Looks promising though and the car is behaving the same way as the previous map, which is a good thing.

Thx guys.

[Bitner16]

I'm having a problem with LTFT's also, I was at 20% at Idle and around 14% or something everywhere else.
I've checked for leaks and after I didnt see any, I started the MAF calibration.
I am doing Great after three reflashes, I'm at +/- 2 for the most part after driving 50+miles.
The only thing bugging me is that after cruising, i'll come to a complete stop, not touching anything (steering wheel or brake) and my STFT's will sky rocket to 20-25% for about 15sec and finally settle back down to 0%.
WTF?
So I then, in the driveway, I let it idle for a while and decided to test something.
I go to hit the brakes and pump them to see if my fuel trims are effected and what do you know! My STFT's rapidly build to a solid 25%! WTF?

[R.MS3]

Sounds like it might be a purge valve gone bad, or a leak. I found out that the reason my trims were so high was because of a small leak at my TIP connection.

If your trims are that high, then it's a mechanical problem somewhere. Purge valve, o2 sensor, leak are the biggest factors. A bad MAF housing on the intake (and the COBB sri's tend to be that way sometimes) can lead to bad trims as well. Try putting the stock airbox on with a stock tune and check how your trims behave. If it goes above 10% at any time, there's a problem.

[dooderek]

curious didnt see your mod list anywhere may you inform me pwease?

[R.MS3]

^^ If that's for me, I just had a COBB SRI and TIP, with a Forge BPV at the time. The tune alone gave me 14whp and almost 20ft. tq from a stock tune.

[Bitner16]

Originally Posted by R.MS3 Sounds like it might be a purge valve gone bad, or a leak. I found out that the reason my trims were so high was because of a small leak at my TIP connection. If your trims are that high, then it's a mechanical problem somewhere. Purge valve, o2 sensor, leak are the biggest factors. A bad MAF housing on the intake (and the COBB sri's tend to be that way sometimes) can lead to bad trims as well. Try putting the stock airbox on with a stock tune and check how your trims behave. If it goes above 10% at any time, there's a problem.

thanks, I have replaced my MAF and my o2 sensor with Denso replacements, and I also checked the Purge valve and I cant blow air through it or the check valve.
I took it to a shop and had a smoke test done and he said he tested it a few times and had other people take a look and he claims there were no leaks.
when I pressurize the system with my Home depot set-up, I get to around 5psi and I listen and spray for leaks, I hear air and it looses pressure. I hear it around turbo/exhaust area, (easier to hear underneath) but I drench it with soapy water, and nothing.
when I soak the TIP and the end of each vacuum tube I find with soapy water, I see no bubbles.
I thought it wouldn't be possible for a complete seal because of the TB and valves and such?
could that be the air I hear?

So right now, TurboXS TBE with HighFlow cat, OCC, SURE TIP, COBB intake, AEM filter, AP stage2+SF 93 v108, PTP pill and intake screen, Denso MAF & o2.

[dooderek]

back on my lexus i smoked a cig and blew it into the intake while car was on, and thats how i found my leak.

[Bitner16]

Originally Posted by dooderek back on my lexus i smoked a cig and blew it into the intake while car was on, and thats how i found my leak.

I guess I can try smoking it from the out side in,
until I can get it up on a lift, is there anything I can lookout for while driving?
Like randomly fluctuating STFT's? or Lean condition in boost?
Anyone know if what I stated above about the brake pumping causing High STFT's is normal?
It goes away after pumping.

[Bitner16]

Originally Posted by R.MS3 Sounds like it might be a purge valve gone bad, or a leak. I found out that the reason my trims were so high was because of a small leak at my TIP connection.

after you fixed the leak, how much did you have to adjust your MAF tables?

[R.MS3]

I fixed the leak by uninstalling everything and selling the parts lol. I'm trading her soon.

My trims are now between 0 and +7 on cold weather, bone-stock car.